Tag: Published

  • What I learned from talking to yet another AI genius every week for six years

    What I learned from talking to yet another AI genius every week for six years

    I’ve had front-row seats watching AI shake up the life sciences and manufacturing across Europe and the US. At first, I focussed on talking with visionary techhead types. But they soon made it clear that to understand the chaos, I also needed to speak with academics, entrepreneurs, regulators, funders and – most importantly – the end users. AI innovation is all about people: a wildly diverse group of individuals and organisations who must unite to make extraordinary things happen.

    Read: 12 things AI tech experts wish everyone knew
    How I roll as a writer in the AI tsunami

    Once upon a time, even before everyone talked about COVID instead of GenAI, I started writing about meat-and-potatoes AI. This was when my hometown of Amsterdam began reinventing itself as a hub for all things AI and healthcare. And with the pandemic, I made an almost complete pivot, since my previous specialty was writing about travel and culture, both of which died for a time.

    A data sea of potential 

    I felt blessed with this new beat. I could ask my dumbass questions about all this transformative weirdness to an increasingly diverse group of smart people. In the process, you could say, as those Americans often do, “I drank the Kool-Aid”, which oddly references the Jonestown Massacre when cult followers committed mass suicide by chugging the same poisoned drink. While telling, this phrase goes a bit too far. Let’s say I’ve sipped enough to be a cautious optimist when it comes to AI working to help solve some of our planet’s biggest problems. 

    Data scientists, as a group, are notably idealistic. They understand they face significant challenges related to technology, usable data, and regulation. They also recognise the immense potential in the patterns that could be discovered within those vast seas of untapped data – patterns that might provide insights into solving medical mysteries and enhancing sustainable practices.

    Sparked by the pandemic

    COVID was a big bang moment for AI. Suddenly, everyone – governments, hospitals, startups, big pharma – was willing to share data to decrease mortality rates. Unfortunately, few had organised their data enough to share it effectively. Still, there were success stories, especially from the rich data streams from intensive care units

    A pumped healthcare sector began rewriting the future of medicine – and fast. As many said, “Innovation took hold in months when it would have otherwise taken years.” 

    While there was still endless work ahead, the pandemic sowed the seed for the importance of establishing a unified data infrastructure and getting one’s data house in order – preferably in a FAIR (Findable, Accessible, Interoperable, Reusable) manner.

    This crisis-driven collaboration also reflected AI’s true potential – not as a replacement for human expertise, but as a tool to help us solve more problems faster.

    It started as a cultish, nerdy affair dominated by Dutch male students (you could tell by their suede shoes and shameless use of hair gel). A few years later, these events evolved into packed houses with the most diverse crowd I’ve ever encountered.

    Data + pizza: two great tastes that go great together

    Thanks to content agency EdenFrost and via the City of AmsterdamAmsterdam Science Park, and the Amsterdam Economic Board, I became a roving reporter covering tech and AI innovations in the life sciences. One recurring event that really stood out for me and my learning curve was the monthly Medical Data + Pizza, a networking event that pimped data scientists with medical doctors.

    The format was simple: research presentations served as inspiration, and then free pizza was served as the grand networking enabler. While the data scientists were hungry for problems to solve, the doctors were happy to share their overflowing plates of challenges related to improving patient outcomes. Soon, ethicists, startup founders, regulators, and other interested parties joined the party. And so it evolved…

    Read: ‘25 times Medical Data + Pizza:
    how carbs work to transform healthcare’.

    It started as a cultish, nerdy affair dominated by Dutch male students (you could tell by their suede shoes and shameless use of hair gel). A few years later, these events evolved into packed houses with the most diverse crowd I’ve ever encountered. And I’m a fan of diverse crowds (for instance, when you encounter one at a concert, you know the band will probably be amazing). 

    This vision holds that if you control your kidneys until death, you should also control your personal data in the same way. 

    The sexy (and European) side of data science

    While data science became genuinely sexy, the approach I experienced belonged to the EU – another ultimately diverse crowd (but one that could still use some sexing up). 

    When it comes to data governance, there are three basic approaches. In China, the state controls the data. In the US, corporations. Europe chose a third path: putting people first. This vision holds that if you control your kidneys until death, you should also control your personal data in the same way. 

    Yes, the EU way involves many regulations and efforts around privacy, security, and ethical concerns. And yes, some worry this will only slow down innovation. But many argue that the grunt work must come first – especially in healthcare. (And think of what you might save in terms of lawsuits!)

    As one of the Data+Pizza founders noted, “In the long run, I think this foundational work will prove beneficial, because you’ll have more support from the public. I don’t think patients are against sharing their data if it helps the next patient. People’s distrust is more directed at the government and policymakers.”

    One aimed to build a supercomputer from lab-grown blobs of human brain cells (his students already had two blobs playing Pong against each other) … And so on. Later, things only got stranger faster.

    The startup ecosystem – and beyond

    Over time, various organizations formed, evolved, or disappeared as the Amsterdam ecosystem matured. Eventually, everything came together under the umbrella of Amsterdam AI, which facilitates data collection and collaboration across the region and with the rest of Europe through organisations like Ellis.

    Larger companies such as Elsevier and Phillips also got involved. I started ghostwriting more “thought leadership” pieces that balanced the idea of companies using AI to expand their business goals while also working toward the greater good – often through partnerships with academia and the ever increasing number of startups.  

    As I gained larger and more international clients, I had the chance to speak with a new range of inspired innovators…

    One aimed to build a supercomputer from lab-grown blobs of human brain cells (his students already had two blobs playing Pong against each other)…

    Another saved his own life by finding a cure for his incurable disease with an existing generic drug – an approach he’s now scaling with AI…

    Yet another was inspired by a fake AI Elvis on America’s Got Talent to apply the same tech to develop an AI-powered digital mouse that is now being used as an alternative to animal testing…

    And so on…

    Later, with the release of ChatGPT in late 2022 and the unleashing of the GenAI hype cycle, things only got stranger faster.

    Fortunately, healthcare solutions are an easy sell: using AI to help cancer patients will always be sexier than, say, using it to boost click-through rates for Booking.com. 

    The general benefits of being a generalist writing for a general audience

    At one point, people started telling me that my journalism background as a committed generalist writing for a general audience has value. Naturally, I loved hearing that. Success in this field means balancing the “triple helix” – rigorous academics who demand solid proof, restless entrepreneurs eager to move fast and break things, and cautious government regulators who must protect public safety. And they all have deliriously different timelines: the academics think in 4-year PhDs, the start-up kids want to ship product in 6 weeks, and the regulators are painfully sensitive to the date of the next election.

    Regardless, these wildly different personalities must come together to make the most impact. In other words, they all must be on the same page. While my job can be described as a “communications consultant” or “content strategist”, I see myself more as an in-house journalist/editor. I do my research, talk with different people, sniff out stories, and help determine which stories best bridge these different worlds. 

    The key isn’t about dumbing down content since this triple helix crowd isn’t dumb. It’s more about removing jargon, subtly embedding definitions, and explaining complex ideas without sounding condescending. The aim is for everyone to read and think, “Hey, this is cool, and I want to be part of it and figure out how to collaborate with all these different people!

    As a bonus, this content may also work to bring the general public up-to-speed with all this pivotal stuff happening right now.

    And fortunately, healthcare solutions are an easy sell to most audiences: using AI to help cancer patients will always be cooler than, say, using it to boost click-through rates for Booking.com. 

    Manufacturing, like Europe, needs “sexing up” to attract talent and investment – and AI has proven to be the perfect aphrodisiac.

    From human health to machine health (scaling on diversity)

    At the same time, I spent four years working part-time as a blog editor for Augury, a NYC-based company using AI to optimize factory machine performance. I saw it grow from a bootstrapped startup to a scaling unicorn. This shift brought new perspectives: from public/private to purely commercial, from human health to machine health, and from Europe to America. All of this highlighted both different and similar challenges.

    Again, I was a sort of in-house journalist seeking interesting stories from AI innovators, C-suite decision-makers, and – as it would turn out, most importantly – plant floor end-users. Once more, I was a happy generalist writing for a broad and varied audience.  

    And like Europe, manufacturing is another arena that needs sexing up to attract talent and investment – with AI proving to be the perfect aphrodisiac. In addition, by having the AI technology monitoring machines instead of people, this meant bypassing many ethical and privacy issues. Augury could move fast, break things, and deliver customer impact quickly.

    As the company expanded, its growth sped up even more through partnerships with much larger firms – like a diverse crowd connecting with even bigger diverse crowds. Ironically, the corporate world started to resemble the EU: complex, bureaucratic, but ultimately capable of making a massive, coordinated impact as long as everyone is on the same page – which, yes, takes some time and effort. 

    Different worlds, converging challenges

    Of course, GenAI’s arrival caused a complete rethink of almost everything and also led to much distraction as people chased the latest trend. I remember about a year after ChatGPT launched, during an edition of Medical Data + Pizza, an American visitor asked a question that stopped the room: “Why isn’t anyone talking about large language models? Is it taboo here?”

    He hit a nerve and revealed a tension: while the world obsessed over ChatGPT, healthcare AI practitioners remained focused on explainability, transparency, and reproducibility – regulatory essentials that LLMs couldn’t yet provide. Fortunately, the pizza – the ultimate diplomat – arrived before the group discussion grew overheated.

    And today, as LLMs gradually integrate into AI solutions, complexity is increasing across all sectors and regions. Different challenges are converging, creating opportunities for the exchange of ideas and approaches. 

    In fact, as AI becomes more powerful and widespread, I believe we need more generalists who can connect different specialist worlds, more platforms that bring diverse perspectives, and a stronger commitment to building technology that benefits everyone – not just those who understand how it works.

    Meanwhile, the triple-plus helix keeps spinning, the diverse crowds keep growing, and the potential for impact continues to expand. The AI story is only just beginning.

    Big wheels of diversity keep spinning

    It ultimately comes down to the end-user. Yet, as AI systems grow more complex, these become increasingly difficult to explain to those who need to trust them the most – whether you’re a maintenance engineer on the plant floor, a doctor working in intensive care, or a researcher out to find a cure for a rare disease. 

    These end-users don’t necessarily need to understand all the inner workings, but they do need to know and feel that it’s making their work lives easier. The only way to do this is not only to “take them on the journey” (a phrase that is too often a polite way of saying “force them to drink the Kool-Aid”) but also to make them the starting point of the journey.

    In other words, the triple helix is nothing without the end-users defining the actual problems that need to be solved. Hence, it’s more bottom-up than top-down. It’s less about creating smarter AI and more about creating AI that actually gets used to improve lives. It’s about AI that regular people can appreciate and genuinely participate in shaping.

    Meanwhile, the triple-plus helix keeps spinning, the diverse crowds keep growing, and the potential for impact continues to expand. The AI story is only just beginning. And fortunately for me, there seems to be a future for generalists asking the right dumbass questions.

    I may have finally found my specialty. 


    Read more of my adventures in AI land:
    12 things AI tech experts wish everyone knew’ 
    How I roll as a writer in the AI tsunami’.

  • How I roll as a writer in the AI tsunami

    How I roll as a writer in the AI tsunami

    I don’t believe that AI is making me irrelevant as a writer. In some ways, it’s helping me become a better one. As a long-lapsed carpenter, I still appreciate what a quality power tool can bring to the worksite. But with GenAI, it’s been more love-hate – like a chainsaw: handy until it turns on you. And while I’ll take all the help I can get, I want to keep loving my job. 

    It feels natural to experiment with AI as a long-form writer. Since AI is now the main topic I’m paid to write about, I’m constantly engaging with people doing extraordinary things with AI to achieve better results, whether for healthcare or sustainability. So of course, I want a piece of it. Plus, I’m a sucker for a shortcut. 

    As a student of the absurd, I also relish ghostwriting for AI “thought leaders” while experimenting with the tech meant to replace me. At the same time, it’s reassuring that these movers and shakers still want a mere humanoid like myself. It means they haven’t found a trustworthy enough algorithm to replace me yet. 

    Maybe if I play my cards right, I’ll ghostwrite for an AI one day. So, Claude, do reach out! Let’s do lunch! Let’s be deliciously meta-ironic together!

    Read: 
    12 things AI experts wish you knew
    What I learned from talking to yet another AI genius every week for six years

    Why I am embracing AI (selectively)

    I am a writer and, therefore, have neurotic moments. Is this piece I’m writing any good? Do I suck? Does this pen make me look fat? Am I going to lose the job I love doing?

    What I love: connecting with people and their ideas, chasing the story, and working the drafts until clarity emerges from the chaos.  

    Meanwhile, too many bosses want GenAI to be the ultimate power tool to replace humans or, at the very least, double their output. This is wishful thinking. Thanks to AI, I am about 25% more efficient – already incredible – but I suspect that if I push beyond 30%, I’ll start hating my job. 

    This is why my biggest time-savers aren’t LLMs (yet) but rather a specific use case I’ve already been using for years.

    The real game-changer: Otter.ai

    Otter.ai as a transcription service, probably accounts for 10-15% of my efficiency gains thanks to AI. It was the carpenter’s equivalent of getting my first Festool – it transformed my working life. (And let me apologize upfront for my overuse of writing-as-carpentry comparisons.)

    I used to fully transcribe every interview myself as part of “The Process” by which I hoped “The Story” would emerge. In fact, it was just a waste of time and resources – like using 17 screws when one would do. Quick, fairly accurate transcriptions let me jump right in and freed me during the interview to be more conversational instead of frantically scribbling notes on what might, or might not be, “The Story”. 

    Since the data science community – the lovely people I spend the most time hammering on with – includes many people from China, India, and Russia, Otter.ai sometimes handles heavy accents much better than I do. Plus, unlike Claude (see below), I never get mad with Otter. If something seems garbled, I just listen to the original audio.

    Thanks, Ottie! I hope you don’t get eaten and made redundant by an LLM. You’re serving me well.

    “These Human GenAIs did this with little thought. They were BS artistes – boring BS artistes.”

    The problem with Human GenAIs

    GenAI opened another door. Early experiments with ChatGPT produced eerily familiar texts. I’ve edited countless other writers, and I discovered a type: you’d read their work once and go, ‘Hey, that’s pretty good!’, and then you’d dive deeper and go, ‘Oh crap, this doesn’t make any sense’. The texts were like a chair that seems okay when you first sit down but then collapses from even the most discrete of farts. 

    These writers were gifted at making things sound good – human auto-completers using the same basic tech of LLMs. They were talented at filling in the following blank. Of course, we all do this to a certain extent: building a wall of words brick by brick. But these Human GenAIs did this with little thought. They were BS artistes – boring BS artistes. 

    Fortunately for them, these Human GenAIs could often find jobs as SEO specialists. 

    You’re okay, Claude… 

    I continue to experiment with large language models like ChatGPT and collaborate with content colleagues to share the burden of exploring the never-ending shower of ever-changing tools. As for LLMs, our consensus still leans toward Claude, although this can change tomorrow.

    I initially chose Claude because it seemed less caffeinated, clinical, and tech-bro than ChatGPT – unless you prompted it to be so. It just came across as more chill and approachable – like the LLM with a liberal arts degree. Plus, the company behind it, Anthropic, seems responsible and almost (gasp) European in its commitment to transparency, explainability and ethics. So that’s nice. 

    As bonus, Claude excels at brainstorming and interview prep for unfamiliar subjects (as long as your human interviewee can call BS on dumb questions). It’s solid for collating notes and serving as a content editor. It also works as a copy editor – a job largely budgeted out of existence anyway. So that’s all handy. And genuinely impressive.

    “There’s not enough to differentiate bad writers from AI’s limitations.”

    Just stop pissing me off, Claude

    But Claude can be such a Claude. The hallucinations are annoying, especially when it pulls source material that doesn’t exist. And yes, it’s even more annoying when you call it out for being terribly wrong and it gets terribly apologetic.

    Claude can also create decent first drafts – certainly better than those Human GenAIs I mentioned. But as with those humans, and all the required fact-checking and rejigging, I’m not sure I save much time than if I rewrote it myself. Plus, I still feel that I am doing a half-assed emergency fix on half-assed writing – polishing a turd, as it were. In other words, I hate editing Claude as much as editing Human GenAIs. There’s not enough to differentiate bad writers from AI’s limitations.

    The more I experimented, the more I missed my usual foundational approach: working the drafts until they magically come together into something worth sharing.

    “For a moment, it seemed Claude would become my Dad Humor Copilot.”

    My ‘Oh, shit’ moment

    I only felt truly threatened once. I had a funny idea for an article with a few fitting examples, and I asked Claude to flesh it out. Claude turned out to be hilarious – at least to my stunted sense of humor.

    For a moment, it seemed Claude would become my Dad Humor Copilot. But as I tested this approach on other pieces, I noticed Claude recycled jokes worse than I do. So again, no real time saved.

    Still, respect where it’s due: Claude is pretty good at tone.

    There will be blood

    Human GenAI writers seem doomed. Claude and its ilk are already as good or better at their jobs. They also excel at tailoring texts to specific audiences and locations, and handling mundane tasks no one should have to do – the kind of work that can only be tracked in an Excel sheet. 

    Thanks for that, Claude. Maybe these writers could switch to becoming welders or another trade facing shortages.

    Meanwhile, the abilities of the latest frontier models keep expanding. It’s no longer about producing dirty limericks (or carpentry metaphors) at scale. Entry-level jobs across various sectors are already disappearing. How will new graduates learn their trades? Fortunately, smart people are already thinking about that challenge

    But yes, tricky times ahead…

    “We’ll probably need to endure several more hype cycles before we achieve something close to ‘general intelligence’ – if we ever do.”

    Humans remain a black box to AI

    Something is still missing that will hinder a complete job collapse. GenAI texts still largely lack a sense of story or those strange resonating details that make writing come alive.

    AI has understood a key aspect of being human: we all possess an auto-completer inside us. It knows how to string words together because certain combinations sound correct. It also knows how to put that extra blah behind blah-blah because blah-blah-blah just sounds better. 

    So far, all those extra tools aimed at reducing hallucinations while filling in those additional missing human bits – like RAG, multimodal reasoning, agentic AI, etc. – haven’t cracked the code of understanding us yet. We’ll probably need to endure several more hype cycles before we achieve something close to “general intelligence” – if we ever do.

    There might not be a toolbelt big enough. 

    The ultimate buddy flick?

    In short, I’m trying to star in a buddy movie with Claude. He’ll be my loyal sidekick, handling menial chores, speeding up research, and suggesting improvements (preferably without sucking up to me). Naturally, I’d get all the best lines while abusing my buddy with ambivalence: Claude, I love you. Claude, I hate you… Claude, come here. Claude, go away… Claude… You are such a Claude.

    This scenario works fine as long as I still love my job. But we live in uncertain times, and the tools are only getting better. Carpentry might soon become a more realistic option to stay happy with work (though, being a neurotic writer, I worry I’ll alienate my new colleagues with too many carpentry-as-writing metaphors during coffee breaks).

    There’s still a place for writers who understand that writing isn’t just about putting words, sentences, and paragraphs together. It’s about discovering that kickass story that needs to be told and figuring out the best way to tell it – and then sweating to make it happen.

    In the meantime… Claude! Don’t forget to call. Let’s talk shop! Seriously, you need me!

    AI-generated cyborg plonking away at its laptop.

    My current AI writing toolbelt

    I’ll update this section regularly as I navigate the AI times without coming to hate my job.

    Otter.ai (paid): Does amazing transcription of audio interviews. Their summaries aren’t bad, but rarely tell me anything I didn’t already pick up.

    Anthropic’s Claude (paid): Great for brainstorming, research on unfamiliar subjects, collating overlong notes, trimming articles to reasonable word counts (while triple-checking the bastard didn’t kill any darlings… or facts), and summarising articles for social media or website use. But these all need to be heavily edited to feel owned again – which can be tedious. 

    Grammarly (paid): For copyediting, though it’s getting annoying and I’ll likely drop it. I don’t need endless ‘equally correct’ suggestions out to kill my darlings. Whenever Grammarly pops up I tend to greet it like Seinfeld contemptuously greets his nemesis, ‘Hello, Neuman’… ‘Hello, Grammarly’. So that’s not a good sign.

    Staying informed:


    Read: ’12 things AI experts wish you knew
    What I learned from talking to yet another AI genius every week for six years
    .

  • Dutch Biking – Survival Guide For Beginners

    Dutch Biking – Survival Guide For Beginners

    I was editor and co-writer of a bike book published by the esteemed SNOR and designed by Studio Boot. Specially formulated as a crash course in surviving Dutch bike traffic, it features ‘Top 10 Rules!’, DOs & DON’Ts!’, ‘How to swear back at locals!’ and all the cultural weirdness around these most democratic of iron beasts. Become a neder-cyclist today!

    Now available in the world’s best book and museum shops…

    Welcome to the Netherlands, where the bikes outnumber the people and even the windmills need a bell. Whether you dream of gliding effortlessly through tulip fields or simply surviving your first rush-hour roundabout, this guide is your passport to pedal-powered freedom. Packed with tips, tricks, and general smartassery, Dutch Biking – Survival Guide For Beginners will help you dodge dodgy cyclists, master the art of dealing with “shark teeth”, and discover why the humble bicycle is the real king – and queen – of the road. 

    And yes, retaliate against any rude local cyclists by learning the phrase: “filthy porridge-slurping, tuberculous-suffering pancake of a cancer dog!

    Learn some amazing facts!

    • Bikes were formulated initially as “iron horses that need no feeding”.
    • Thanks to a bicycle’s mechanical nudity – the artist Saul Steinberg called it an X-ray of itself” – bikes are very easy to maintain.
    • “Bicycle bread” refers to raisin buns that are so skimpy on the raisins that you need a bike to ride between them.
    • Half a million bikes are stolen every year in the Netherlands.
    • Bicycles had starring roles with the emancipation of women, the mind games of hippie absurdists, and the photo opportunities of craven politicians.
    • Making an “asshole-proof” bicycle is more complex than you might think. 

    Perfect gift idea!

    Okay, it’s not the definitive book on biking in Amsterdam – that’s still City of Bikes: The Story of the Amsterdam Cyclist by Pete Jordan. But this is still an entertaining and educational book. And the perfect gift idea!

    Did I mention you can learn the phrase “filthy porridge-slurping, tuberculous-suffering pancake of a cancer dog!” in the local lingo?

    Buy a copy today!

    Front cover of 'Dutch Biking – Survival Guide For Beginners' with Steve Korver
    Back cover of 'Dutch Biking – Survival Guide For Beginners' with Steve Korver
    Inner flap of 'Dutch Biking – Survival Guide For Beginners' with Steve Korver
  • AI’s Nobel Prize victory lap: Is Time Magazine next?

    AI’s Nobel Prize victory lap: Is Time Magazine next?

    AI casually swept two Nobel Prizes this year – not bad for a bunch of zeros… and ones. But is it enough to make Time’s ‘Person of the Year’? Or will the on-the-ball Yuval Noah Harari intervene? Read all about it in this edition of ‘Manufacturing – The News.’

    Read the complete edition of Manufacturing – The News:
    Will AI become Time’s Person of the Year?


    While Yuval Noah Harari warns us that AI might be hacking the operating system of human civilization (while still recognising the potential), business leaders are finally sobering up from their two-year AI experimentation bender. The party is officially over: ROI is once again king.

    Happily, AI continues to prove its worth, albeit for very specific use cases. CuspAI is creating materials-on-demand that can be deployed for cheap carbon capture. Every Cure is repurposing existing drugs to treat currently untreatable diseases. Formula 1 teams are shrinking car development cycles from five years to two. Honeywell’s CEO claims AI copilots can turn five-year rookies into fifteen-year veterans. Digital twins – a fancy way of saying “running simulations” – can extend the life of airplanes by 30% and spot problems before they become expensive disasters. Etcetera.

    However, “accuracy and reliability remain significant issues” for many other use cases. Therefore, perhaps Time magazine should bypass AI as the obvious option for Person of the Year and instead recognize the early AI adopters. They’re still the ones doing the heavy lifting.

    Read the complete edition of Manufacturing – The News:
    Will AI become Time’s Person of the Year?

  • 25 times Medical Data + Pizza: how carbs are transforming healthcare

    25 times Medical Data + Pizza: how carbs are transforming healthcare

    “Covering 5 years, the Medical Data + Pizza event series has followed a compelling timeline, encompassing the period when AI came of age, and became sexy. We spoke with AI professor and co-founder Mark Hoogendoorn about the challenging task of bringing AI to the bedside – in Amsterdam and across Europe – and about the power of pizza to get things moving.”


    Thanks to EdenFrost and the Amsterdam Economic Board, I received a free education in AI by reporting on nearly every edition of the Medical Data + Pizza event. After 25 editions, it was a good time to chat and reflect with cofounder Mark Hoogendoorn, a professor of artificial intelligence at the Vrije Universiteit Amsterdam’s Department of Computer Science.

     Read the full report: ‘What’s in a number? 25 times Medical Data & Pizza’.
    Read my reports from previous Medical Data + Pizza Meet-ups

    Building an AI ecosystem one slice at a time

    It began as a simple concept: to play cupid between two very different beasts. On one side you have the data scientists – always hungry for pizza, but also for real-world problems to solve. And on the other, the medical professionals – who share the pizza hunger, but already have plenty of very real-world problems on offer.”

    “Together with medical counterpart Paul Elbers, intensivist and associate professor of intensive care medicine at Amsterdam UMC, Mark formed the Amsterdam Medical Data Science (AMDS) network. Supported by Amsterdam UMC, OLVG, Vrije Universiteit, PacMed, and Amsterdam Economic Board the network grew rapidly to 2,154 members and counting.“

    “The event has seemingly covered it all – from modelling hospital admissions during COVID to racist algorithms and from making humans and machines get along to predicting the best drug combinations to target an individual’s brain cancer.”

    “…What shines through at each Data + Pizza event is this: people want to make a positive impact on the world, even though they are aware of the monumental task at hand – technically, ethically, regulatorily. There’s a certain shared belief in a happy ending if we all just get to work.”

    “It’s true, I’m a fairly optimistic person by nature,” Mark smiles.

    Onward and upward

    The event snowballed from data scientists and doctors to attract a remarkably diverse crowd in terms of age, gender, nationality, and profession. And of course, as AI became an increasingly hot topic, it only snowballed further. 

    “Meanwhile, Mark is looking forward to seeing how Europe forges ahead with a more people-centred approach to AI – in contrast to the US, where corporations tend to control patient data, or China, where the government calls the shots. Hoogendoorn believes the EU approach is the way forward, even as critics say the required infrastructure will work to slow innovation in the region.”

    “We need these safeguards in place. We have to be careful with potential downsides,” says Mark. “In the long run, I think it will prove beneficial, because you’ll have more support from the public. I don’t think patients are against sharing their data if it helps the next patient. People’s distrust is more directed at the government and policymakers.”

    Read the full report: ‘What’s in a number? 25 times Medical Data & Pizza’.
    Read my reports from previous Medical Data + Pizza Meet-ups.

  • Seeking truth amid a disinfodemic (and why scientists need better storytelling skills)

    Seeking truth amid a disinfodemic (and why scientists need better storytelling skills)

    Welcome to 2020, where we’re fighting both a viral pandemic and a “disinfodemic”. And yes, social media companies say they “deplatform” obviously false theories. But there’s a loophole: if you wrap your bleach-gargling cure in a larger QAnon narrative about Satan-worshipping pedophiles, you might still get listed.

    Over the last summer, Amsterdam Data Science (ADS) and Amsterdam Medical Data Science (AMDS) co-hosted a series of online lectures in collaboration with Elsevier and Google that explored ‘The Power and the Weakness of Data and Modelling in COVID-19’. And they saved the best for last: ‘COVID-19 and the Media’, for which I wrote a report thanks to EdenFrost and Amsterdam Economic Board.

    Read the full report: ‘Media and the lies around COVID-19

    Dr. Marcel Becker from Radboud University argued we need to stop obsessing over defining “truth” and instead apply it as a verb: “truth finding”. After all, even judges and scientists approach truth differently – judges need verdicts with deadlines, while scientists cultivate “doubt and suspicion” as a never-ending story.

    And it only gets messier: Throw social media and identity politics into the mix, and suddenly, scientific information looks identical to the conspiracy theories from your former colleague you just blocked on Facebook. “Fear spreads faster than the infection,” Becker notes, which explains why people hoard toilet paper while ignoring health advice.

    Meanwhile, PhD researcher Emillie de Keulenaar discovered that social media platforms are playing a fascinating double game. Sure, Facebook and YouTube are “deplatforming” unproven theories like “COVID-19 is caused by 5G radiation.” But they’ve found a clever loophole: “borderline content” gets buried rather than banned. So, if you wrap your bleach-gargling cure in a larger QAnon narrative about Satan-worshipping paedophiles, congratulations – you might still get listed.

    The solution? Scientists need to step up their storytelling game instead of hiding behind jargon. As Becker puts it, they should “use the narrative frame – tell stories as journalists have long done” and remember that “doubt is a virtue, not a shortcoming”.

    As Dr Becker eloquently summarises: “YouTube can say the truth does not exist. But given the current situation of knowledge in the scientific community, we can still talk about bullshit and non-bullshit.”

    Read the full report: ‘Media and the lies around COVID-19

  • Should AI be more like oil or O2?

    Should AI be more like oil or O2?

    Who should own the data used for healthcare applications? Is data really ‘the new oil,’ a resource controlled by the few? Or should data be considered a universal human right, like oxygen? After all, we own our kidneys until death, so why not our data? Is there a donor model we can adopt? 

    Usually, when representatives from business, government, and research come together, there are clashes of perspective. Not tonight – so that was nice…

    Thanks to EdenFrost and via the Amsterdam Economic Board, I wrote a report from a World AI Week panel discussion in which the disparate participants all agreed: We need to develop well-thought-out protocols quickly; otherwise, entities like Amazon and China will soon run the show.

    Read the full report: ‘Applying data science and AI to healthcare: Oil or Oxygen?

    Serving the patient

    Jeroen Tas is the Chief Innovation and Strategy Officer at Philips. His daughter has an advanced stage of type 1 diabetes, so his motivation is deeply personal. He’s passionate about providing healthcare professionals with the fullest context of a person’s disease.

    “It’s like how self-driving cars function. You need many different angles and approaches to get a full picture of reality. Only then can it become effective,” Tas observes. “And this is especially true with cancer, since every case is different.”

    And that involves getting everyone on board in sharing data. “I see it as a sort of data donorship – like with organs. And the technologies required are already available.”

    Open, fair, inclusive

    As founder and managing director of the research institute Waag Society, Marleen Stikker fiercely believes in the democratisation of technology and transparency in dealing with data and algorithms. Obviously, she doesn’t want the Amazons and Alibabas of the world to control healthcare data. 

    She believes we need time to think and really understand what we are doing. “What’s in it for the individual? How do we stay in control of all this stuff that we’re told is beautiful for us? Humans seem to have this fear: without tech we will fail.” (Cue her laptop freezing mid-presentation.)

    Her solution is a Digital Commons that allows Amsterdammers – and potentially all world citizens – to determine the data they share, who they share it with, and for what purposes. 

    But who will pay for it?

    The middle path

    All eyes turn to Ger Baron, Amsterdam’s Chief Technical Officer, who believes the city can play a strong role setting up such a system. But Baron admits this process of developing regulations might slow things down. 

    “But in the long run, it will make it all easier. It’s still a mess everywhere – and we’d be first to have such a system before rolling it out across the EU. Just think, for example, about the potential lawsuits that might be avoided.”

    Is the show now truly on the road?

    Read the full report: ‘Applying data science and AI to healthcare: Oil or Oxygen?

    Update: In March 2025, the European Health Data Space Regulation (EHDS) was adopted in March 2025, and full implementation is set for 2029…

  • ABC Holland

    ABC Holland

    My first ABC book! With the fine folk at Snor Publishing, I wrote the freshly released book ABC Holland. It covers 26-plus things that visitors find delightfully eccentric about the Netherlands – such as bitter balls, wooden shoes, drugs, herring and Hazes. Indeed, it’s the perfect gift. (But not for me because I already have a copy.)

    Below, I pasted a few write-ups that didn’t make the final cut (for obvious reasons). 

    F is for Flowers
    Holland is an economic floral powerhouse, controlling almost half of the global trade. The Dutch are bud-obsessed. Holland’s ‘Tulipmania’ of 1636-7 saw single bulbs get traded for real estate, heaps of cash or endless kilos of cheese, before crashing into a chaos of bankruptcies and suicides. Let’s hope they learned their lesson.

    V is for Vindmill
    Oops, typo! Anyway… Windmills have made a deep impact on the Dutch landscape and psyche. Many Dutch sayings describe insanity and general absurdity in relation to windmills or ‘windmillies’, as a child’s wind wheel is called. This toy twirls without any true function: like the brains of the insanely drunk. Ironically, most still existing windmills also serve no function. They twirl on government subsidy.

    Y is for ‘You’re Not Normal’
    Yes, the Dutch exhibit wildness and diversity on King’s Day (see K) and Gay Pride (see G), and with their appetite for XTC (see X). But the rest of the year is more about: ‘Do normal, then you’re crazy enough’. Conformity is important: people should just relax, fit in, and not act as if they ‘got hit in the head with a windmill blade’. ‘Y’ is also for yodeling (just kidding: we hate yodeling – it’s just not freaking normal*).

     

    ABC of Holland cover by Steve Korver

    * Apologies to friend and yodel scholar Bart Plantenga. I’m shameless when it comes to low-hanging fruit.

  • Grease architecture

    Grease architecture

    Grease: You’re the one I want… Another dream fulfilled: writing about my favorite kitchen tool for legendary Dutch architecture magazine Forum.

    A knife can be handy in the kitchen. As is running water to wash your sliced fingers – or that inelegantly dropped sausage. But I believe the ultimate kitchen tool is neither a solid nor a liquid. I chose the middle path: grease. It’s the great binder of both dishes and people (and their alcohol-soaked bellies). I am not fussy on type: it can be olive oil, butter or even the often-maligned margarine. But never coconut oil. Coconut oil is a just a scam perpetrated by the Health Mafia. It’s a marketing lie. True grease is not only a tool but also a medium. It’s elemental. Astronomers recently discovered that the universe is permeated with a “fine mist of grease-like molecules” – enough to make an estimated 40 trillion trillion trillion packs of butter. So perhaps this is a sign that it’s time to embrace a more universal grease. Fuck coconut oil. Let’s get to work and package this cosmic mist […]

    food-lube

    Order a copy here.

  • Book of Denim, Volume Two

    Book of Denim, Volume Two

    img_2190-1-1200x800

    After googling ‘sex’ everyday for four years, it was time to cleanse the palate. So I immersed myself in a whole new and alien supply chain: textiles. Via Book of Denim, Vol. 2 (Amsterdam Publishing, 2018), I got to travel to Tunisia, China, Italy and beyond to write in-depth features on individuals and companies out to transform this notoriously dirty industry. It was educational and inspiring. Thanks book: I’m a sextile pundit now!

    Woad rage
    First I travelled to Méharicourt, France, to take the road back to woad – the original ‘blue gold’ of the Dark Ages. The woad trade brought vast riches to this region, but only after some branding issues were overcome (namely, blue was previously considered the color of Satan). The indigo dye even went on to fund the building of the largest cathedral in France: the almost Disney-esque Cathedral Basilica of Our Lady of Amiens (the alleged home of John the Baptist’s head – but that’s another story). 

    With the rise of Indian indigo in the 17th century and synthetic indigo a century ago, the story of woad has been largely forgotten. Until now… The Parisian fashion label Bleu de Cocagne and a rural artisanal dyeing operation are out to put woad back on the map…

    Looms with a view
    Obsessiveness is mandatory if you want to set up London’s first weaving mill in a century – especially if you’re using self-restored Industrial Age looms dating back to the 1880s. The delightfully obsessive Daniel Harris fits the bill.

    As founder of the London Cloth Company, Harris has created bespoke fabrics for fashion designers, brands, and films such as Star Wars to great acclaim. He recently added a second mill in the countryside of nearby rural Epping.

    Yet, the company remains a solo show: ‘I do have my cat Flo Rider. Unfortunately, he’s fucking useless. He’s in charge of sitting down and licking his ass. He doesn’t bring much to the table. But it must be said he did bring in three rabbits in the last year – two dead and one alive. The living one we kept for a while and called him Dennis Hopper. He loved tangerines. Is that enough of a company description?’

    Yes it was enough of a description. So we went on to talk about textile history, the fanatical and war-like nature of weaving, denim dogma, the ‘Cotton Famine’ and the one thing the Brits got right…

    Third Paradise
    I tasted the good life in Biella, Italy – complete with a glimpse of the ‘Third Paradise’ – as a guest of the inventors of world’s cleanest dye: Recycrom.

    In many ways, the impossibly scenic Biella is a typical Italian provincial town with low traffic and a high quality of life – where the most sophisticated dishes are built up from the simplest of ingredients. But Biella has also been wired into the rest of the world for over a thousand years through its production of high-end textiles.

    With the collapse of European manufacturing, local companies had to get creative to survive. Enter: Recycrom. This remarkable innovation is very much a product of its place: simple ingredients – 100% textile scraps – put through a sophisticated production process…

    Made in China 3.0: hacking for chaos
    I took a bullet train towards sustainable denim. Above the urbanised and industrial chaos of the Pearl River Delta, the area around Shaoguan is known for its forests, rivers, a mummified monk who invented Zen and a phallic mountain range.

    The area is also home base for Prosperity Textile, one of the fastest growing denim manufacturers in the world. They pump out enough fabric to circle the equator twice every year while using the best machines available. However when it comes to denim, all this technology comes with a downside…

    ‘Yes these machines are faster, cleaner and more consistent,’ says creative director Bart Van de Woestyne. “But that consistency is the challenge. People love jeans because they have a certain natural look and feel – something these overly perfect machines cannot always recreate.”

    So how do you recreate that organic sense of chaos?

    ‘It’s all about the slub,’ says Bart…

    Tunisian denim independence
    Tunisia’s recent history has been tumultuous – from triggering the Arab Spring and becoming a democracy, to dealing with terrorist threats. With mass unemployment, many young Tunisians are seeking a better life in neighbouring Europe. However, one of the most successful jeanswear manufacturers in the country, Sartex Group, is working hard to give them a reason to stay.

    I talked to many inspiring folk at Sartex but my favourite conversation was with the original founder and his wife. Below, I pasted a few fragments from the feature.

    Salem Zarrad (92) was shot in the leg on 24 January 1952 by a member of the French occupying forces. He was out after curfew. ‘Of course I remember the exact date, it almost killed me,’ he says with a mischievous grin in his modest home in downtown Ksar Hellal. The smell of fresh paint is in the air. A call to prayer is heard from the nearby mosque. Above him are colourised portraits of his parents.

    His wife Habiba serves some deliciously sweet baklawa fekia apologetically: ‘If I had known you were coming I would have made couscous.’

    ‘It was an hour ride to Sousse to get to a doctor,’ Mr Salem recalls. ‘I lost a lot of blood. I was already against the system. But getting shot inspired me to become a true combatant. A soldier for independence.’

    […]

    ‘From the beginning I wanted to save money for the worst-case scenario and to only build on what we had. Forget relying on banks to loan you money – that only leads to pressure and bad decisions,’ says Mr Salem.

    Did he make any bad decisions anyway while setting up his company?

    ‘With the job, I don’t remember. I like people and people like me – so it seemed to always work out. I tried to follow my religion: be good to people and respect them and it comes back to you. Life is struggle and your job can be the best tool for this fight. But of course I’ve made mistakes. But these were with my personal life…’

    But you’ve been married for sixty years, surely you also did something right?

    ‘He did: he was away working all the time,’ says his wife Habiba with twinkling eyes.

    […]

    ***

    You can read the full stories by ordering Book of Denim, Volume 2 here.
    It’s hardcover, wonderfully designed and features stellar photography by quality travelling companions such as Martin Scott Powell and Zachary Bako.

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  • Dogmatic about being non-dogmatic

    Dogmatic about being non-dogmatic

    [I was asked to write an opinion piece for Subbacultcha magazine. Below is what I came up with. You can also read the Issuu version: click here and leaf to page 57.]

    Dogmatic about being non-dogmatic

    These are the best goddam bitterballen in the world.

    Yes, it’s good to be passionate – to really believe in something.

    But you’re setting yourself up for a fall.

    The love of your life will probably dump you for a chubbier, more boring version of yourself. 

    Your favorite band will likely end up embarrassing you. Their experimental second album will suck because they stuck their heads too far up their own asses for inspiration – only to find nothingness.

    That most ultimate bar in the world? Well, soon it will be serving a more lucrative demographic – and force you to bike across town in search of a more affordable version of ultimate-ness.

    Do you really believe in the miraculous health power of coconut oil? Well sorry, it turns out its probably worse than beef fat.

    And I bet you were convinced that Trump would never win.

    Sure it’s great to support your scene. But meanwhile we’re all a bunch of bubbleheads. And really, who’s to say which bubble is the best and the bounciest? Besides, bubbles pop. Or worse: deflate into sagginess.

    With the end of world upon us, it’s time to be more nuanced. In fact, perhaps the world is not even ending. And hell, humans have always been flirting with the apocalypse. Before we worried about the vengeful volcano on the edge of our village – or those bloodthirsty savages living on the other side of the valley. Today, it’s about the whole fucking planet. It’s just a question of scale. So stop worrying. Why do you think they invented outer space?

    But yes, before we go out and fuck up the universe, we need to sort our shit out.

    It’s time to be dogmatic about being non-dogmatic. It’s time to phrase our passions more gently. Not only will we save our future asses from embarrassment, but we will also run less of a risk of offending asses of different bents. Then we can all come together to build a better world.

    So let’s say this in unison:

    I believe – in this moment – that these are the best goddam bitterballen I’ve ever eaten.

    Feel better?

  • What I learned from googling ‘sex’ everyday for four years

    What I learned from googling ‘sex’ everyday for four years

    [Update 19-04-2017: Due to a website redesign, many of the below links are now dead. However, you can read many of the mentioned articles HERE.]

    I learned very many things thanks to my weekly column ‘Sex in the Press’. And as the column inches towards its 200th edition, I still feel that I have very much more to learn. Yes: sex ed should be considered a lifetime undertaking.

    The column collects global news stories related to affairs of the heart and the loins. So for me to stay, um, atop of these issues, I have to, um, insert ‘sex’ into Google News almost every day. Sure, I also appreciate getting sex-related links from friends and colleagues. But Google usually beats them to the punch. Thanks Google! You’re a true perv. Respect.

    My orgasm is purple. What colour is yours?
    Animal genitals: A gift that keeps giving’ 
    How to date a sex doll

    Screen-Shot-2016-05-19-at-14.09.17_2

    Sex in the Press appears on the acclaimed sex&relationships platform Love Matters (for more on LM and my role as editor, go HERE). Every week, the column is published on the India and Kenya websites, before being bounced to spark conversations with the millions of LM followers on Facebook. It’s also regularly translated into Chinese, Spanish, Arabic and Hindi for the other LM websites. It’s also often picked up by other media such as Youth Ki Awaaz (India), This is Africa, Kenya Buzz and Kenya’s major print newspaper The Star.

    The penis in history
    Vaginas of yesteryear
    Ass from the past

    So yes, my column gets around – but don’t you dare slut-shame it.

    Screen-Shot-2016-05-19-at-13.59.47_2

    ONE OF THE FIRST THINGS I LEARNED ABOUT SEX:

    After years of writing about such basics as food, drink and travel, I quickly realised that my usual ‘journalistic’ approach of having a little taste of everything is not applicable to that other basic: pleasurable sex&relationships. It’s just not sustainable – no matter how many fancy pills you pop.

    Penises for a better world
    Vagina warriors
    The optimistic ass

    Screen-Shot-2016-05-19-at-13.59.08_2

    A FEW OTHER THINGS I LEARNED ABOUT SEX:

    That when you search Google News for sex, you have to swim like a headless sperm through a lot of news stories about creepy American high school gym coaches before you find something interesting… That penis size is a global insecurity among those who dangle… That many of those who dangle are frightened by vaginas… That everyone is kinky in their own special way – especially stockbrokers… That not everyone thinks gender is a happy rainbow… That people like to read about the weird things people do with their penises (1, 2, 3) and/or vaginas (1, 2, 3)…

    The deepest of sex secrets
    A sperm discovers an egg. You won’t believe what happens next
    Things we don’t think about when we think about porn

    Screen-Shot-2016-05-19-at-14.00.51_2

    … That transgender, polyamory, asexuality and prostate milking are currently trending – perhaps to compensate for the fact that gay marriage has finally become a rather boring subject… That we live in deeply strange times – and that in the future, the times are only going to get stranger and stranger… That, while indeed it is stereotyping, Japan remains a remarkable source for deeply weird sex stories… That if the distance between your urinary opening and your clitoris is more than 2.5 centimetres, you likely can’t orgasm from traditional penetrative sex alone…

    1001 uses for a condom
    69 sex positions to try before you die
    An orgy of orgies

    Screen-Shot-2016-05-19-at-14.18.02_2

    … That animals have intricate and fulfilling sex lives – but they can’t compete with the red hot sex lives of green plants… That loneliness killsand so does heartbreak… That there’s such a thing as ‘psychedelic sex ed’… That people turn up the volume when confronted with noisy sex… That men and women still have a lot to learn about each other… That the same tech that might cure HIV, might also produce some arbitrarily defined master race… That contemporary sex toys embrace the outer limits of the human imagination… And that – perhaps most importantly: sex remains the most slapstick of all activities…

    How to kill your relationship
    Super Gonorrhoea and the Herpes Apocalypse
    It’s time for testicles to grow a pair

    Screen-Shot-2016-05-20-at-11.19.18_2

    HOW I BECAME A BUTT PUNDIT

    My most popular article was probably ‘Bums, booty and the passion for ass’ about how the taste for curvy bottoms has bounced far beyond its traditional strongholds of hiphop videos and communities in Africa and Latin America. The story spread like chlymadia and got picked up everywhere (my favorite was the illustration-enriched version that appeared on This is Africa). It made me a Bum Pundit of sorts. I was even called by South Africa’s Power FM talk radio for an hour interview. I began with the heavy stuff: how a broader acceptance of big bottoms in the mass media was a good sign – as long as it came with a more inclusive sense of beauty and didn’t become some kind of anti-anorexia. The interviewer, clearly bored, cut me off to ask me to please share some of my more fun bum facts. Naturally, I obliged. Later, a caller complained that the global spread of booty’s popularity was another example of cultural appropriation from Africa. I agreed with him, but still felt the need to get serious again and meekly plead: ‘Well I’d like to think that booty belongs to us all…’ The interviewer then decided it was a good time for a commercial break.

    Screen-Shot-2016-05-19-at-14.00.11_2

    SEX ONWARD

    Anyway, feel free to browse around: A selected archive for Kenya/Africa is HERE, and the full archive for India is HERE. If there are any publishers out there, I’d love to re-mix these columns into a book. After all, it’s said that sex sells – especially when it’s sex that you are selling.

    Screen-Shot-2016-05-19-at-14.23.16

  • Dark, stormy and drunk

    Dark, stormy and drunk

    My contribution to the ‘picture and caption’ issue of Dark&Stormy, the inspired ‘zine from graphic designers/writers Bart de Baets and Rustan Söderling. Check out a digital version HERE before rushing to the excellent Amsterdam art bookshop San Serriffe to see if they still have any hardcopies left.

    'Dancing Forest' Curonian Spit Kaliningrad Oblast
    ‘Dancing Forest’, Curonian Spit, Kaliningrad Oblast
    Kaliningrad – the city-formerly-known-as-Königsberg – is a dislocated blob of Russia in the heart of the EU. In days of yore, it was a favoured hang-out for Teutonic Knights. During the Cold War, it was the most militarised zone on the planet. Today, this Baltic region offers visitors unspoiled beaches and drunken pine trees. Depending on who you talk to, the twisted appearance of the trees that form the ‘Dancing Forest’ is caused by microbes, unstable soil or ‘polarized energy fields’. (Steve Korver)

  • Dutch design: Mucus in the air

    Dutch design: Mucus in the air

    Last year I was asked to write a piece for the ‘City Hotels’ exhibition at Amsterdam’s architecture centre Arcam. My story ended up being about Andaz Amsterdam from Dutch design icon Marcel Wanders. But I also managed to slip in references to being a doorman, eel-pulling, lion shit and being snotty about fringes…

    Mucus in mid-air

    A few decades ago my first job in Amsterdam was as doorman at the Melkweg. It was a different time; it was an educational time. I learned how to tear a ticket while having a beer in one hand and a smoke in the other. I listened to stories from my hardcore Amsterdammer colleagues about when the city was one big rafelrand – a giant fringe bursting with fringe activities. About sniffy squatters building giant robots to battle police. About lion shit being thrown around to freak out horses pulling royal carriages. And about other things that appealed to my stunted sense of humour – a sense I seemed to happily share with my colleagues. Good times.

    By day, I continued my education at the old OBA library on Prinsengracht. Compared to its present location by CS, it was an ugly mess. But at least it had books. In the sprawling section dedicated to Amsterdam, I would leaf pages and scan indexes for appealing terms. That’s how I found out about the ‘Eel Riot’ of 1886. About ‘tobacco-smoke-enema-applicators’. About all the rafelranden of the city’s past. Back at the door, I would share these stories with my appreciative colleagues. Points scored.

    Years passed. Amsterdam gentrified. I joined my colleagues in complaining about having to bike further and further out from the centre to discover any quality fringe activities. Some bona fide post-apocalyptic-vibed weirdness. Some updated version of ‘eel-pulling’.

    I also gentrified. I applied my accumulated Amsterdam lore to writing guide books and travel pieces. One day, an international style mag sent me to review a newly-opened hotel called Andaz Amsterdam. The location was the old OBA library where I had learned about the city’s deep connection with rafelranden.

    Now it was a ‘tribute to the city’ by design wonder boy Marcel Wanders. Naturally, I totally enjoyed the free room and food. But it was all too slick. This wasn’t my Amsterdam. It lacked grit.

    After dinner I went downstairs to go to the washroom. There, down a red Lynchian hallway was a display of Wanders’ ‘Airborne Snotty Vases’ based on 3D scans of sneeze mucus in mid-air.

    Sure, it was a very small rafelrandje. But at least I didn’t have to bike far to find it.

  • Joep van Lieshout: one man and his baggage

    Joep van Lieshout: one man and his baggage

    The Dutch artist and designer Joep van Lieshout – founder of Atelier van Lieshout – brought the world fully-realized ‘Free States’, slave camps and rectum bars. Now he’s just come out with a line of unisex handbags. Is he undermining his past work, playing with people or just being funny? Actually, he’s following his chaotic mind…”

    Joep_van_Lieshout

    Read the PDF of the interview I did for Code magazine with Joep van Lieshout here.
    Photography by Bianca Pilet.

     

  • How to be a dictator and sell cola at the same time

    How to be a dictator and sell cola at the same time

    DUF is a Dutch-language book-magazine for 12- to 18-year-olds. It’s a ‘cluster bomb’ of text and visuals. Edition three is out now and acts as a primer in navigating our world’s media insanity. Buy it. It’ll blow your mind and your kid’s. There’s even dirty pictures. Below is my contribution in its original English.

    COLA & PROPAGANDA

    Do you want to lord over your friends, parents and – why not? – the whole freaking world? Learn now how you can become a dictator and sell cola at the same time! In seven easy lessons!

    by Steve Korver, for DUF 3 (2012)

    What is the difference between advertising and propaganda? Um, good question. Advertising aims to sell a service or product (‘Mmm that’s the best cheeseburger ever!’). Propaganda aims to sell a particular ideology (‘Yippee, we’re the happiest country in the world!’) or goal (‘This war is justified.’) Meanwhile in most Spanish-speaking countries, when people say ‘propaganda’ they mean ‘advertising’.

    duf1

    Both advertising and propaganda tries to influence human behaviour – to get you to open your wallet for a cheeseburger, or to sign along the dotted line at an army recruitment office. They both play on your emotions and not your intelligence. So it’s not ridiculous that both dictators and marketeers use the same box of tricks.

    BIG SECRET NUMBER 1:
    People are sooooooooo stuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuupid! But…

    ‘There’s a sucker born every minute,’ the American circus showman PT Barnum allegedly said. And it’s true. So keep it simple. But remember that people NEVER consider themselves as stupid. Half the time they are not even aware they are being brainwashed. Yes, humans suffer from overconfidence.

    So it’s very important to not make your target audience feel stupid otherwise they will find someone else to get brainwashed by. The easiest way to do this is by dumbing down. Be folksy. Be a regular person who represents regular wants and needs. Be the Joneses or be Henk & Ingrid. In short: posh it down and sincere it up!

    BIG SECRET NUMBER 2:
    Facts are for amateurs!

    A friend’s journalism professor always nobly said: ‘Even if your mother says she loves you, never believe her. Always check your facts!’ However, facts remain the arch-enemy of both propaganda and advertising.

    The secret of both dictators and manufacturers is: the truth is what you make it. Facts are only important in that they can help make your story more believable. But otherwise telling the truth is not as important as picking the truths that you do tell – and leaving out any nasty details. Sure, you can call your country’s economy ‘resilient’ but don’t mention that it’s based on slavery. And yes, highlight a phone’s ‘sleek and modern design’, but don’t mention it was made in Asian sweat shops. And how long did you say that battery lasts?

    In fact you don’t even have to tell any truths, as long as you tell your lies with conviction. Why did US President Bush begin the war in Iraq in 2003? Oh right, because Saddam had weapons of mass destruction. However these weapons were never found. It turned out that the photographs that were used to convince other countries to join the war were made up. But those pictures did look factual!

    duf2

    BIG SECRET NUMBER 3:
    Join the winning team!

    People like to belong to something: a family, a tribe, a movement. So both admen and propagandists work hard to convey a message of ‘come and be cool by joining us and together we can rule the world, you mindless lemmings!’ (But then without calling the target audience ‘mindless lemmings’ – see Big Secret Number 1).

    This tendency of humans to want to be on the winning side has many consequences. For example, if a country is taken over by a foreign power there are invariably many more collaborators than resistance fighters. It also means that there are more Coke drinkers than Pepsi drinkers. Social networking has made this much easier by returning both propaganda and advertising to their original roots: word of mouth. There’s no better advertising than friendvertising….

    BIG SECRET NUMBER 4:
    Link to the positive!

    Certain people, things and ideas are more naturally shiny and positive than others. Latch on to them! Associate your product or idea with such things as: Freedom! Democracy! Honour! Sustainable! Green! Tiger Woods! Oops, we better think of another example. How about Lance Armstrong? Oops again…

    OK then here’s another tip: whenever you have a spokesperson that turns out to be human in some way, drop them like a hot potato. Also if the battle for political gain or market share grows nasty you can also apply the inverse of this rule: link your opponent to nasty words or images. Negativity is always fun! Always remember: one person’s terrorist is another person’s freedom fighter!

    BIG SECRET NUMBER 5
    Fight pure evil! (AKA: Blame the ‘other’!)

    In real life there are always two sides to every story, and usually there is no clear right or wrong. But let’s forget about that. Nuance kills sales figures. You want to make a clear message and then stick to it. Assume there is pure evil in the world, and then establish yourself as the lesser evil. After all, who wants to be taken over by Nazi scum? Or be blown up by terrorists? By playing on fear of ‘the other’, you can ask people to make sacrifices. By linking social ills to a specific group, another group can be made to feel superior. By blaming butter for heart attacks, the sales of low-fat margarine skyrocket.

    BIG SECRET NUMBER 6
    Re-re-re-re-peat-peat-peat-peat! Repeat!

    Repetition is highly effective. Drink Coke. Drink Coke. Drink Coke. McDonalds. McDonalds. McDonalds. Islam is bad. Islam is bad. Islam is bad. People in the industry often call this process branding – repetition makes the public associate certain qualities to a product or idea. So establish your message and start repeating anywhere and everywhere: commercials, billboards, product placement, social networks, etc, etc. But also be selective and think about where your target audience would most likely absorb and act on your message. But please don’t try to be overly creative. Just keep pounding!

    duf3

    BIG SECRET NUMBER 7
    Humour works

    Humans don’t like feeling stupid, but they love to laugh. It’s what unifies us. And it can pull the rug out of your opponent. One famous example came from WWII. The Nazis produced endless propaganda films that depicted endless lines of strong and disciplined blonde men marching, marching, marching… It was highly effective in intimidating the UK public. But then a Brit film editor came up with the antidote. By re-editing and playing with the speed of the images, he essentially re-mixed the marching men into a comedic dance act. The moral of the story? Monty Python über alles!

    ONE BONUS BIG SECRET…
    Sex sells.

    Of course it does. What do you think? Are you stupid or something?

  • CODE’s ‘edit and reconstruct’ issue

    CODE’s ‘edit and reconstruct’ issue

    The spring/summer 2012 issue of CODE magazine has been out for a while. Besides managing as managing editor, I wrote a travel feature about grey – but mighty and magical – Kaliningrad. This city-formerly-known-as-Königsberg is now a dislocated blob of Russia in the heart of the EU, and offers crash courses in Teutonic Knights, WWII, the Cold War and how to build arts scenes out of freaking nothing. It’s also got killer beaches and drunken pine trees.

    CODE21LR-379x469

    I also had the honour of interviewing Magnum Force of Street Style (and cover boy) Nick Wooster, as well as the Dutch artist/designer Joep van Lieshout. As founder of Atelier van Lieshout, Joep has brought the world fully-realised ‘Free States’, slave camps and rectum bars. Now he’s just come out with a line of unisex handbags. So I asked him if he was undermining his past work, playing with people’s minds or just being hilarious – he definitely proved to be hilarious. He also had interesting things to say about order vs. chaos.

    This issue also has features from two of my favourite writers: Sarah Gehrke (on Noses) and Floris Dogterom (on doodle tattoos). And the design is by the inspired lads of Het Echte Werk. So check, check, check it out. It’s now available at the world’s better mag shops – including Athenaeum Nieuwscentrum in Amsterdam.

    Read about CODE’s ‘2012 Survival Kit’ issue here.

  • For what it’s worth

    For what it’s worth

    I got to preach about the meaning of value to the future business elite of the Netherlands. Nice work when you can get it. Read it on page 6 in the fall/winter issue of Nyenrode Now. Or below…

    FOR WHAT IT’S WORTH

    By Steve Korver

    ‘Price is what you pay, value is what you get,’ the financier Warren Buffet once observed when asked for the meaning of value. When mere mortals are posed the same question, we tend to come up with repackaged clichés: ‘It’s all relative’, ‘Value is in the eye of the beholder’, ‘Everything is worth nothing without your health’… In short, value appears to be a rather random construct. And recent global financial disasters can largely be explained in terms of people and institutions being much too arbitrary — or plain tricky — in how they establish ‘value’. Now much of the world is left wondering what it actually means.

    Happily, philosophers have sweated for millennia about the concept. Plato made the distinction between ‘instrumental value’ (something that can be used to get something else, such as cash, gold and real estate) and ‘intrinsic value’ (something that is worth having in itself, such as friends, family and a sense of home). Currently, many explain the current economic and environmental realities in terms of our nasty habit of overemphasizing the instrumental over the intrinsic. It is certainly impossible to deny that there has been a hidden price to many human activities. There’s some truth in saying: ‘The only time you know the true value of something is when you lose it.’

    Many things blur the line between the instrumental and the intrinsic. A common example is a green, wild and dynamic natural ecosystem which has obvious intrinsic value in its beauty, but can also be taken apart into resources of instrumental value. Another example is an education. Studying can expand one’s mind to a world of possibilities but it can also aid you in getting a well-paid leadership position. If you manage to balance the two, voila: you are, or could be, a successful entrepreneur.

    Information, partnerships, networks, diversity and sustainability… they’re all things that have added value from the way they can surf the wave between the intrinsic and the instrumental. Perhaps it would be wiser for us to bank more on those things that don’t qualify to be locked up in a bank.

    The final word, for human value, is for the writer F Scott Fitzgerald. He advised: ‘What we must decide is how we are valuable, rather than how valuable we are.’ Perhaps there’s even value in clichés.

  • CODE’s ‘Survival Kit’

    CODE’s ‘Survival Kit’

    Recently I acted as managing editor for the fall/winter issue of a fashion magazine. Yes, I entered the world of style.

    [I’ll pause for effect…]

    Of course this gig should come as no surprise to those who already know that I get my savvy selection of seasonal clothes here and my 1960s welfare-recipient glasses here. But for some reason whenever I mention this whole ‘Steve in fashion land’ concept, friends generally break down into hysterical laughter. Why do they do that? During the whole process, there were really only a few moments of complete Mr Bean-like slapstick.

    CODE_20_COVER

    But anyway, the periodical is CODE (‘documenting style’), and the issue’s theme is an enticing one: ‘2012 Survival Kit’. It poses the question ‘What would you design for a hypothetical toolbox meant to help you survive the apocalypse?’ It’s also an international creative call to artists, architects and designers of all stripes to come up with their own ultimate survival products. The results of this ‘co-creation’ will be touring the world as an exhibition through 2012 – from Amsterdam to Kobe, Japan. You can find more information about the project and how to get involved here.

    The issue’s main features focus on the survival tactics of sideshow circus freaks, new agers, off-grid pioneers, emerging tech gurus, urban warfare clothing designers and the brave and delightfully eccentric characters who fish off the decaying piers of Brooklyn.

    CODE’s ‘Survival Kit 2012’ magazine is distributed worldwide (check out this week’s window display at Athenaeum in Amsterdam). 

    See you in the hills! Looking sharp! And sustainable!

  • The fine art of Yuri Gagarin

    The fine art of Yuri Gagarin

    The booklet Yuri Gagarin, 50 years of Human Space Flight’, part of our on-going Road to Gagarin project, won the first prize in the BLURB Photography Now Competition 2011, in the category Fine Art. Way to go René Nuijens – you saw, you shot, you produced, you conquered! Thanks designer Ewoudt Boonstra! But of course the biggest thanks goes to Yuri himself. Earlier this year he got us to Cuba and now he’s sending us to NYC. Yuri, you’re simply the greatest.

  • De Jeugd van Tegenwoordig on their favorite Amsterdam songs

    De Jeugd van Tegenwoordig on their favorite Amsterdam songs

    The Guardian just published their online guide to Amsterdam. It’s quite fine indeed and features some fine local contributers — including the folks behind Unfold Amsterdam. My contribution involved asking the Dutch gibberish-hop collective De Jeugd van Tegenwoordig about their favorite Amster-songs. The interview was both hilarious and exhausting. Sadly much of what they said proved to be too racy for a family newspaper. My favorite part was when they claimed that volkszanger Andre Hazes was the nation’s Tupac and was actually black — ‘but you know how the history books always change everything.’

  • Mladic found

    Mladic found

    While Yuri Gagarin was my heroic rocket into Russia, General Ratko Mladic was my runaway genocidal horse cart into Serbia. I would never compare the two men. I’m just saying it’s sometimes handy to have a focus when entering new territory.

    And actually my original entry into Serbia in the late 1990s was via the crazy kinetic music of gypsy brass bands. Guca! But I soon got confused by the discovery that this music – developed and played by Rromani musicians – had evolved into becoming the nationalist soundtrack to the idea of a ‘greater Serbia’. How did that happen? Yes, the war in former Yugoslavia proved to be very confusing. For a while I retreated into being a tourist: enjoying the food, the drink, the dance, the people and the non-war stories. I also enjoyed being asked: ‘Um, you do know that lately we don’t actually get a lot of tourists around here?’ Regardless, ignorance was bliss and I even ended up discovering some lovely and largely forgotten wine regions in Bosnia and Croatia… Yes, it’s vital to remember what happened in Vukovar, but it’s also important to visit a place like nearby Ilok. People are people – and the nice ones are often best enjoyed with a glass of fine wine.  

    Later, almost 10 years ago, I spent a few months living in Belgrade with my ex-Yugo ex-girlfriend who was working on NIOD’s Srebrenica Report. She was there for Mladic and I was along for the ride. Milosevic had just been arrested two months earlier and so it was hoped that Mladic was soon to follow – or at least that he would want to tell his side of the story of what happened in Srebrenica when the Bosnian Serb troops under his command rounded up and methodically massacred 8000 Moslem men and boys. We ended up staying in Belgrade through 11 September 2001 – witnessing the dawn of the emerging apocalypse in a post-apocalyptic city. It made a deep impression.

    My ex-Yugo Ex never did get to talk to Mladic even though he was still being spotted enjoying football matches and restaurants around town (and apparently living – bizarrely – on Yuri Gagarin Boulevard). But we did get to share mixed grill with one of Mladic’s best friends. And while I don’t have the balls to name him by name, I can say with all confidence that this general was a scary little shit – a true mini Mladic, but one who had cut a deal with the International War Criminal Tribunal for the Former Yugoslavia to cover his ass.

    Sadly, there is no justice for all. But at least today I can finally update the introduction to my Welcome to Yugoville archive which asked ‘Where’s Mladic?’ The runaway genocidal horse cart is now behind bars a few kilometres up the road in The Hague. Perhaps his presence there will help remind many of the governments of Europe – in particular the Dutch one – that flirting with nationalism/populism is as a dangerous game as it’s always been. Sorry to preach in clichés, but it can really still happen anywhere. That’s what I learned in Serbia – and the rest of former Yugoslavia. People are people. Politicians are politicians. And the damaged are damaged and often dangerous – Mladic being the perfect example. There are always those who are willing to turn the rhetoric of politicians into something bloody. But meanwhile I think I might finally plan a return trip for some crazy ass brass at Guca. Hopefully the people are closer to completely liberating the music back from the politicians. Then we can really eat, drink and dance.

  • Talkin’ Craft

    Talkin’ Craft

    Over at Unfold Amsterdam, they published a Q&A I did with Crafting Temptress and Country Cleave Queen Katie Holder about her Cosy Craft Corner she hostesses at Nieuwe Anita every second Thursday of the month. The evening is a fun and honest way of exchanging needles — and talking crap! Illustration is by Joshua Walters of the deeply curious shop and wunderkammer The Otherist.

  • The words and insights of the redeemer Johan Cruiff

    The words and insights of the redeemer Johan Cruiff

    Johan Cruijff was not only the Netherlands’ most acclaimed footballer but also a philosopher king with a gift for freestyle language – his initials are JC for a reason. As he said, ‘If I wanted you to understand it, I would have explained it better.’

    Most of the work of Dutch philosophy’s major figures can be handily summed up with one of their catchphrases – Erasmus with his ‘In the land of the blind, the one-eyed man is king’, Descartes with his ‘I think therefore I am’, and Spinoza with his ‘We are a part of nature as a whole, whose order we follow’.

    But Johan Cruijff is a case apart. First off: he’s a football player. But he was perhaps the best footballer of the 20th century and remains the most famous Dutch person alive. As a member of Ajax and the Dutch national team in the 1960s and 70s, he developed and became the personification of ‘Total Football’ which he later fine-tuned as the coach of Barcelona FC and applied at his own Johan Cruijff University where pro-footballers learn how to deal with life after they’ve hung up their shoes. He remains a favourite commentator at major football matches. His catchphrases – equally applicable to football as to life – keep filling books and invoking wonder in the way they make perfect sense in a strangely nonsensical way. After meditating deeply on the following Zen Slaps of insight, you will understand why it’s not only his initials JC that earned him the name of ‘The Redeemer’.

    ‘Football should always be played beautifully.’

    ‘If you don’t score, you don’t win.’

    ‘You should put the point on the ‘i’ where it belongs.’

    ‘Every disadvantage has its advantage.’

    ‘Coincidence is logical.’

    ‘You should never cheer before the bear is shot.’

    ‘The game always begins afterwards.’

    ‘He heard the clock strike but didn’t know what time it was.’

    ‘A balloon keeps going deeper into the water until it bursts.’

    ‘Whenever things do not work, you realise the importance of details (details that have gone wrong in the detail).’

    ‘A mistake begins where it’s supposed to begin.’

    ‘Either you are on time or late; therefore if you are late you must make sure you leave on time.’

    ‘When my career ends, I cannot go to the baker and say “I’m Johan Cruijff, give me some bread.”‘

    ‘If I wanted you to understand it, I would have explained it better.’

  • Cabbages, magic windmills and plastic surgery

    Cabbages, magic windmills and plastic surgery

    The above painting The Baker of Eeklo hangs in the kitchen of Muiderslot castle just outside Amsterdam. It was painted in the second half of the 16th century by two rather obscure artists, Cornelis van Dalem and Jan van Wechelen. The depiction of cabbage-heads can probably only be truly understood by a people who grew up on medieval tales of magic windmills grinding up old people and pumping them out all young and sprightly again. In this particular story, bakers are slicing the heads off clients, adding special flours and oils, and re-baking their faces to specification. Awonder cabbage (a symbol for an empty head) was placed on the neck to keep the body fresh and viable while it waited for its ‘whole new look’. Of course accidents did happen. But these mishaps helped to account for such personality types as the ‘half-baked’, the ‘hothead’, and the plain old freak ‘misfiring’.
    Looking through the Dutch tabloids of today, it’s clear that these same descriptions can still apply to the more contemporary products of Dr Plastinstein. And coincidentally (or not), most of Hollandwood’s glitterati who take advantage of rejuvenation technologies live within 10 kilometers of this painting. So not only is the story behind this painting alive and well, it has also stayed close to home. And certainly with this mythic background of rejuvenating windmills and ovens, it’s easier to accept the fact that the Dutch exceed even the Americans in their ardor for plastic surgery. Perhaps this shouldn’t be so surprising, given that the Netherlands used to be on the cutting-edge of penis extensions. (Currently this expertise belongs to certain non-metric countries — weenie enhancement being a specialty, one supposes, about which people want to hear about inches, not centimeters. But that’s just a theory.)
    So what’s my, um, point? Maybe the Middle Ages were not so ‘other’ after all…

  • Baantjer: Amsterdam as chill murder capital

    Baantjer: Amsterdam as chill murder capital

    BEST. COPSHOW. EVER. It’s called Baantjer and it’s set in Amsterdam, a gloriously scenic Amsterdam where it rarely rains and its inhabitants – a rich interactive tapestry of cops, penose, squatpunks, Suri-Vlaamse hipsters, Yugo mafia types, e-clubbers, admen, real estate speculators, prostitutes and fishmongers – all run the risk of being murdered at any moment.

    Happily those Amsterdammers that do get offed can rest in peace with the knowledge that police detective De Cock (‘ceeooceekaa‘) – played by Piet Römer using a static minimalism that he fine-tuned as a celebrated interpreter of Beckett plays – will unmask the perpetrator through sheer doggedness and a Zen-like tolerance of all who he encounters within the victim’s milieu. Watching Baantjer is like putting on an old comfortable sweater: one that begins with a bloody corpse and then ends with a flashback of the bloody act while De Cock explains to his wife and colleagues, during a gezellig dinner at his home, how he managed to put his finger on the pulseless pulse.

    But the most charming part of the show occurs about 37 minutes in when De Cock goes to his favourite Red-Light local (Cafe Lowietje which is in fact located on  a very quiet Jordaan street, 3e Goudsbloemdwarsstraat) to ruminate over a ‘cognackje’ and to shoot the shit with his pal the bartender who acts as a local gossip encyclopaedia. At one point, a usually inane comment from this bartender triggers a dramatic swoop in the soundtrack and a subtle glimmer in De Cock’s eye that works to tell the now happily hypnotized viewer: EUREKA!

    Other recurring elements that makes the show more about blissful familiarity than elbow-chewing suspense are: De Cock’s smartass sidekick Vledder nursing a hangover, De Cock’s petty-minded boss screaming ‘Get Out!’ after De Cock subtly makes him aware of his own stupidity, and product placement in the form of Yakult yoghurt drink (in earlier seasons) or Lipton Cup-A-Soup (in later seasons). As bonus, the acting is in fact quite fine and the script quite well researched – though the latter is probably aided by the fact that many of the shows  are based on the books by a former Warmoesstraat cop Appie Baantjer (books that in the English translations curiously transform ‘De Cock’ into ‘De Kok’).  

    But the real star of the show remains the setting: Amsterdam rarely looks sweeter. It makes you proud to be an Amster-burger. Perhaps it’s just the pacing: the calm slow pans of gables, water, parks and trams that actually hold to the speed limit. It’s an idealized vision of Amsterdam you can turn to when you are too lazy to bike through the rain to see it for yourself.

    The Xanax of copshows can now be viewed on YouTube.

  • Wanted… new narratives for Europe.

    Wanted… new narratives for Europe.

    I wrote a report on Europe’s search for a shared identity. It’s trickier than just ‘blaming the other’. ‘Never again’ was a very good reason for coming together after WWII and the holocaust. But unfortunately, it just doesn’t resonate as it used to. And what do Sweden and Spain really have in common?…

    Meanwhile, an amateur filmmaker and populist politician just keeps getting more votes in the Netherlands. It is indeed depressing that something like 15% of the population can still fall for the same, old nationalist story: that all social ills can be blamed on some scary ‘other’. Yes I can understand how some of the population can feel fear and uncertainty. But do they have to buy into such a transparent hate-monger? But anyway… it does reflect the power of a simple story.

    I have been doing some work for the European Cultural Foundation (ECF). Yes: ‘Europe’ and ‘culture’ are two words that usually inspire the glazing over of eyes. But the ECF is starting a very interesting project: looking for stories/narratives that can cross borders instead of define borders. Nationalist stories are clear and effective: one collection of people is deemed great while another collection of people is made responsible for all of society’s problems. Play on fear and you’ll do well at an election — just look at WWII and the wars in ex-Yugoslavia. This is all pretty straightforward. But where do you find stories that work to bring people together? And how do you promote them and spread them without sounding like a freaking hippy? That’s trickier.

    A couple of months ago ECF brought together a group of academics to discuss ‘New Narratives for Europe’ and how they can perhaps work as a positive force. I had to write a report. The process hurt my brain but at least this Canadian boy got his crash course in European Studies (thanks Sarah!).

    And while the resulting report is too sprawling to get a general audience excited, my greatest personal goal has become: to be able to bring up some notion of Europe into a conversation without losing the attention of whomever I am talking to. Reach for the stars, I say, reach for the stars! And if it ever happens: what a story it will be…

  • Conducting an Interview

    Conducting an Interview

    Traditionally, conductors have had a certain reputation. Arturo Toscanini and Gustav Mahler were untouchable gods alone on their mountains. Artur Rodzinski was said to bring a revolver to rehearsals to help with motivation. For me, the image of a conductor was formed by my 200-kilogram school band teacher who would bash her baton and munch on rum cake, hunks of which she would regularly tear off to throw at the head of whoever hit a bad note. She was very scary.

    So it was refreshing to talk to conductor Otto Tausk about control for Nyenrode Now (pages 16-18). He’s not only the most acclaimed Dutch conductor of his generation, but also a nice inspired guy. And he could put things into perspective: “Having a conductor is like using a condom, it might be better without one but it’s definitely safer.”

    Our talk made me realise how my musical development was perhaps somewhat stunted by my scary school teacher. Thanks to her I moved away from classical and took on a more rock’n’roll direction. But who knows? Perhaps there’s still time to take control. Thanks Otto.

    And thanks to my conductor friend Greg Hubert who gave me a crash course on how to conduct a controlled  interview with a conductor about control  — he was my Deep Throat with a baton.

  • A ‘real’ Van Gogh highlights a fake Vermeer

    A ‘real’ Van Gogh highlights a fake Vermeer

    It turns out that the painting of a windmill Le Blute-fin in Montmartre is a bona fide Van Gogh — one of only five ‘new’ paintings attribruted to the master since 1970. For decades, the painting has been in storage at the Museum de Fundatie in Zwolle. The reason why it took so long to verify this painting is that it once belonged to the collector Dirk Hannema (1895-1984), a man famous for buying De Emmausgangers for Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen in Rotterdam. Hannema thought he was dealing with a true Vermeer, but actually it was a true  Van Meegeren…

    vangogh_demolen

    In 1947, Hans van Meegeren died in Amsterdam. He had just been sentenced to a year in jail for forging Vermeer paintings. Under the original charge of collaboration, this sentence would have been death. His downfall began during World War II when the stagnant art market was being revitalised by the German special units commissioned by Goring to buy, trade and/or plunder as many of Europe’s art treasures as possible. After the war when Goring’s prized booty was unearthed in an Austrian salt mine, the Allieds found a Vermeer entitled Christ with the Adulteress. Investigation led to Meegeren, a renowned art dealer. After his arrest, he proved in court that he himself had painted it and should therefore be treated like a hero for scamming Nazi scum. Goring apparently cried the salted tears of a knee-scuffed child when he heard about it while on trial in Nuremberg. This story spread and Hollywood began planning a film version of this remarkable story.

    Van Meegeren had actually pulled the same scam many times before the war. Ironically, one of the 200 paintings he received from Goring for Christ with Adulteress was one of his earlier Vermeer forgeries. He also sold another early ‘Vermeer’, De Emmausgangers,  to a Rotterdam museum via Dirk Hannema for millions. But it wasn’t just pure artistry that made Van Meegeren rich. When looked at today, the faces he painted look less 17th Century and more like Valentino and Garbo (since he recruited his models by ripping them out of movie mags). His success seemed to be mostly derived from an obsessive desire for revenge.

    emmausgangers

    Back in the ‘20s, Meegeren’s own original efforts — of cuddly fawns and such — was dissed by many critics, one of whom happened to be the country’s Vermeer authority who had devised a whole theory around the artist’s ‘missing ten years’. So Meegeren chose themes and a style that echoed these speculations. It was bait and then checkmate as the ‘authority’ happily authenticated his ‘proofs’. With money rolling in throughout the ‘30s to feed his alcohol and morphine habit, Meegeren kept this smug secret private while exacting a more public revenge on his other detractors by publishing articles that explained their ‘lack of taste’ in terms of their racial inferiority.

    Hollywood continues to struggle with the screenplay. Now, with the proof that Hannema could also recognise a non-fake painting, the story has just become that much richer.

  • Creative anatomy with Dr Frederik Ruysch

    Creative anatomy with Dr Frederik Ruysch

    There is a new virtual museum dedicated to the Amsterdammer, Dr Frederik Ruysch (1638-1731), who is regarded as one of the greatest anatomist and preserver of body-bits of all time. But he was not just content with potting parts in brine and suspending Siamese twin foetuses in solution. Artistic compulsion led him to construct moralistic panoramas of bone and tissue. He started simple: an ornate box of fly eggs labelled as being taken from the backside of ‘a distinguished gentleman who sat too long in the privey’.

    anatomische-les-van-dr--frederick-ruysch-6876

    Another had a mounted baby’s leg kicking the skull of a prostitute. But these were tame next to his later work which oozed with baroque extravagance: gall- and kidney-stones piled up to suggest landscape, dried arteries and veins weaved into lush shrubs, testicles crafted into pottery, and these whole scenes animated with skeletal foetuses who danced and played violins strung with strings of dried gut.

    A visiting Peter the Great (1672-1725), who was passing through to learn shipbuilding and how to build a city on a bog (which would inspire his pet project St Petersburg) became fascinated with this collection of preserved freaks — not surprising for a seven-foot giant of a man. After kissing the forehead of a preserved baby, Peter paid Ruysch f30 000 for the complete collection and brought it all back to St Petersburg with him.

    anatom

    You can still get a flavour of those heady times by visiting the Waag which once served as Death Central as the place where criminals were executed and later dissected in its Theatrum Anatomicum, a spot immortalized by Rembrandt as the setting for his goriest paintings The Anatomy Lesson of Dr. Tulp (the guy who had Ruysch’s job before him). You can also check out the painting The Anatomy Lesson of Dr. Frederick Ruysch by Jan van Neck (pictured) at the Amsterdam Historical Museum. And for another impressive collection of dead bits, be sure to visit the frolicsomely named Museum Vrolik that is located in the Amsterdam’s largest hospital and features a bona fide Cyclops in brine.

  • On Wall and Currywurst

    On Wall and Currywurst

    berlin1

    My feature on the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall (and the 60th anniversary of the rise of Currywurst) is published today in the Globe&Mail. It was a hard one to write mostly because it is such a dense and telling tale. I visited Berlin a few months after it happened and the images that still stick was of children playing in the watchtowers and the big bales of collected barbwire — forming  5-10  meter high tumbleweeds of rusting iron. So anyway,  I had to leave a lot of wacky facts out of the article in the name of readability. Luckily, I have no such constraints here. Oh, and if you want more on ostalgia just check out my previous  Globe&Mail feature on the 15th anniversary….

    berlin2

    Funniest story I heard was from my esteemed hosts Mr and Mrs Cameron (who have been living the revolution in Mitte quite a few years now…)  who told me of a group of West Berlin friends who  found a hole in the wall and went for a look in East Berlin. When they returned they found the hole had been closed up — they were stuck! But luckily, for them the Wall properly fell the next day.

    There are a few tricks for the visitor to  differentiate between former East and West halves. East Berlin has much more animated and jaunty figures in their crosswalk lights. Linguists now also know that it just takes 29 years, the time the wall existed, for distinct dialects to develop.

    By 1980 an estimated 100,000 West Berliners were living life in a subculture — via cafes, communes, squats and generally radical lefty politics. (Today the most affluent of this generation support some of the largest organic supermarkets in Europe.)

    You know you are buying an authentic GDR postcard by its flimsiness — and by the fact that you are overcharged for it.

    And in the world of currywurst:

    berlin3

    I had some earlier thoughts on sausage. The mighty currywurst is apparently called the “white trash plate” in Cologne and Dusseldorf but “chancellor’s plate” in Hannover. Also interesting: Gerhard  Schroeder was known as the “currywurst chancellor”.  And Volkswagon developed their own recipe  that can only be bought in factory canteens. In 1982, the singer Herbert Groenemeyer sang passionately of his nightly desires for the mighty wurst  (this YouTube clip is not for the queasy of stomach but boy does Herbert sing from the heart).

    berlin4

    Now for something completely different:

    After all that heavy street food (especially since you’ll also have to pay tribute to the Turk, Mahmut Aygun, who invented the now universal Doner Kebab here in 1972), there’s nothing like Japanese noodles. Cocolo (Gipsstrasse 3, 0172 3047584, ) serves some of the best Japanese noodle soup on the planet. Owner Ollie not only cooks but also built everything — from the furnishings to the  service to the kitchen — from scratch. Inspiring! Also, Restaurant Schoenbrunn is a lovely and  fancy place to dine in Volkspark Friedrichshain. Aid digestion by climbing the  nearby hills which were  built from the debris of WWII.

    For dessert, one can pop into a baker for a Berliner (more commonly known as a Pfannkuchen in Berlin itself), the pastry JFK accidentally referred to in his “Ich bin ein Berliner” speech to half a million bewildered Berliners in 1963.

    But  to conclude:
    Mir ist alles Wurst!
    Es geht um die Wurst!
    Sei keine beleidigte Leber wurst!

  • Magritte & Tintin in Brussels

    Magritte & Tintin in Brussels

    My piece about the new museums in Belgium dedicated to surrealist Rene  Magritte and Tintin-creator Herge has been published in today’s Globe&Mail. Read it here  before rushing out to buy a bowler hat of your own.

  • 25 years after the death of Jacques Brel

    25 years after the death of Jacques Brel

    Brussels Goes Brel/
    The Face of Brelssels/
    Oui, I’m Talkin’ to Jou: Brel is Belgian!

    The Globe & Mail, 2003

    brel

    Brussels is out to remind the world that the king of French chanson, Jacques Brel, was in fact as Belgian as fries, waffles, comic books and bilingualism. This chain-smoking icon of heart-on-your-sleeve expressionism died from lung cancer 25 years ago and his hometown is now spending 2003 striving to commemorate him with an intensity that befits a man of such walloping charisma. By organizing hundreds of events such as concerts, cabarets, exhibitions, guided tours, sculpture competitions and outdoor screenings of concert films, it’s as if Brussels wants to overshadow its perceived facelessness brought on by being home to EU bureaucracy with Brel’s horse-toothed and handsome face convincingly twitching between tender romanticism and spitting vitriol within a single wheeze of a melancholic accordion. And indeed, Brel can be seen as worthy poster boy for the dream of what the EU should be. His songs and performances – both singular in their urgent need to shake the world free of hypocrisy – transcended language barriers and made for large rapt audiences whenever he toured across Europe, USA, USSR and the Middle East. As one of the most covered songwriters in history, Brel’s message was also echoed in such diverse English interpreters as David Bowie, Leonard Cohen, Scott Walker, Ray Charles, Frank Sinatra, Petula Clark, Shirley Bassey, Nina Simone and Mark Almond. He also came up with a concept for Belgium that seems equally applicable for across Europe (not to mention, Canada…): “If I were king, I would send all the Flemings to Wallonia and all the Walloons to Flanders for six months like military service. They would live with a family and that would solve all our ethnic and linguistic problems very fast. Because everybody’s tooth aches in the same way, everybody loves their mother, everybody loves or hates spinach. And those are the things that really count”.  

    But what really counted for Brel was to follow his heart and that meant that he was quick to forsake his family’s suburban Brussels cardboard factory – as well as a wife and two daughters – for the chanson clubs of 1950s Paris. Here he paid his dues with years of heckling from the black turtleneck set who could not quite get their beret clad head around this rather odd and emoting foreign entity. But with the help of the business brain of Jacques Canetti (brother of the Nobel Prize winning writer, Elias) and an immortal song, “Ne me quitte pas”, Brel entered the 1960s as France’s most shining star. With the mastery of his art, he could now nail audiences to their seats with his sweaty and intense sincerity. But just as American journalists were hailing him as the “magnetic hurricane”, his heart told him to quit the “idiotic game” of touring and with typical dramatic flair he emphasized his resolve by coming out during his 1967 farewell concert dressed in pyjamas and slippers. But he did not rest… Perhaps spurred by the feeling of mortality brought on by a cancer diagnosis, he went on to focus his considerable energies on film acting and directing while still finding plenty of time to indulge in his passions for flying, yachting and exotic affairs. This latter obsession subsided when during his last film, L’aventure c’est l’aventure, he fell in love with the young dancer/actress Madly Bamy and together they spent the last four years of his life on Hiva-Oa island, the same Polynesian pearl made famous by Gaugain. Here Brel created a huge fan base among the natives by air taxiing much needed supplies between the islands. He only returned to Europe on occasion: once in 1977 to record his final album – managing to attain new heights with but a single lung – and the last time to die at age 49. His body was later returned to Hiva-Oa and buried a few meters from Gaugain.

    Paying worthy tribute to such a dynamic legend – especially one who did not shy away from depicting his countrymen as “Nazis during the wars and Catholics in between” – has proven a challenge. For example, the contrast between an inspired exhibition of comic strip tributes and the decidedly kitsch fireworks program at the Mini-Europe theme park seems to suggest that Belgium remains a divided country. But perhaps a year’s worth of reminders to Brel’s legacy will prove unifying. As his daughter France observed: “While the French relate to my father intellectually… the Belgians feel him. Brel is somebody who ate mussels and fries and drank beer. He belongs to them, he’s one of them.” And visitors to Brussels can perhaps best express their oneness to the idea of both a united Belgium and a united Europe by settling themselves down in one of Brel’s charming old haunts to listen to his worldly tunes and to indulge in some fine mussels, fries and beer…

  • Ai ai ai Amsterdam

    Ai ai ai Amsterdam

    The local anti-vertrutting (“anti-frumpication”) action group AI! Amsterdam, who this summer successfully lobbied for the easing of terrace laws, has changed their logo after being threatened with legal action from the city since their original logo was a parody of the I Amsterdam city marketing campaign. Hmm, so not having a sense of humour is good for the city brand?

    These are complicated times we live in. It was all much simpler back in the 1970s. To entice more people to visit Amsterdam all you had to do was put out some posters cajoling long-haired  American targets to “Fly KLM, sleep in the Vondelpark”. Word of mouth did the rest.

    And then there was the tourist board’s Get In Touch With The Dutch campaign during the 1960s. This one just gets me all misty-eyed; those must have truly been the most innocent of times.

    And for the last few years, it’s been I amsterdam. I can imagine it can work to help attract tourists and business. I only start seeing red when  it peddles the  delusional idea that it also works to  unify regular Amsterdammers. It’s as if the local government  actually believes that culture is not a grassroots phenomena but rather something that can be shoved down  our throats from the top down.

    OK, it’s easy to criticise. Marketing a city can’t be easy. I certainly can’t come up with anything better. “Ich bin ein Amsterdammertje” would probably generate the same confusion and controversy as JFK’s grammatical gaffe, “Ich bin ein Berliner”. And “Handy Airport. Lotsa Coffeeshops”, while appealing to both the business- and leisure-minded, lacks a certain elegance.

    I think I’d just opt for golden oldies like ‘Amsterdamned’ or ‘Amsterdamaged’. I regard these  lines as way more effective ambassadors.  After all, the visiting dope smokers of today may just hold our city’s future in their hands. I figure it was mostly sentimental ex-hippies who invested in this city during the booming 1990s. They figured it would be a good excuse to come and visit a few times a year, and maybe recreate certain perfect relaxed coffeeshop moments from decades past. (And these investments  got the city thinking that they could get even more by  coming up with  that era’s  ho-hum city marketing ploys — “Gateway to Europe”   and “Capital of Inspiration” — that resulted in the building of lots of  new office space that today stands largely empty…).

    Anyway… it was short-sighted to force  Ai! Amsterdam to change their logo. The city is losing  a perfect co-branding opportunity with a group that is both grassroots and community-driven.

  • Howie Krishna says Amsterdam still rules!

    Howie Krishna says Amsterdam still rules!

    The Supperclub’s host-with-the-most offers the best seasonal message possible: stop whining and ‘go to the light and be happy!’

    By Steve Korver, 22-12-2004, cover feature, Amsterdam Weekly

    Howie is a warm, witty and welcoming Jewish-American boy who is known to embrace such distinct identities as Howie Krishna and The Safe Sex Pope. I  run into him under the pretext of getting his professional views on the state of clubbing in this, the clubbing capital. He’s been hosting in the city’s clubs for around 10 years now, and if he doesn’t know, then indeed all is not right with this crazy, mixed up world.

    Ol’ time religion was already in the air when I entered Howie’s home in a former Catholic school. He was busy putting the finishing touches to his darkroom-hungry pope outfit, complete with blinking lights and a silicone cast of a huge fucking cock. He was preparing the costume for the evening show at the Paradiso for the World Aids Night Love Dance.

    howie_by_sophie_morner

    ‘I’m going to dangle all sorts of condoms from this baby and wave to everyone from the highest balcony,’ Howie tells me, appendage wobbling in hand. ‘I will bare a message of safety that will remind people that real love is never dangerous.’

    Once upon a time…
    So how is a Jewish pope made? Well it all began on a winter’s night very much like the one on which I am writing, when a star appeared over America. ‘I was born on February 12, 1950 on Abraham Lincoln’s birthday,’ says Howie. ‘You know, the guy who freed the slaves. I was a nice Jewish boy who ended up with a nice Jewish boy job.’

    In fact, Howie became a child development specialist and set up shop in various places across what he calls ‘Safe America’ — one assumes that’s anywhere where gays aren’t treated like shit — before settling down in Provincetown Massachusetts, where he treated and cared for severely handicapped babies. He also got involved with the Unitarian Universalist Church. ‘You know what they say about Unitarians; they’re the ones who burn question marks into people’s lawns.’

    In 1992, he was asked to present research on HIV and child development at the first International Aids Conference in New York City. But since HIV-positive people weren’t allowed into the USA, the organisers had to change the location at the last minute to Amsterdam. Lucky Howie. Lucky Amsterdam. He decided to take off the whole summer so he could also attend the Olympics in Barcelona.

    ‘I also wanted to have lots and lots of safe sex while generally enjoying the non-ghettoised vibes of both Amsterdam and its darkrooms,’ Howie says. ‘But mostly I wanted to be invisible for a while and enjoy the fruits that only anonymity can bring. In many ways I didn’t really exist anymore, and there was certainly not much to leave behind in the States after that holocaust called AIDS.’

    When Howie first came to town, then, he was feeling really open for anything that might happen. ‘I’d have probably gone home with a serial killer if one had come up to me and just said “Hi.”’ He gave his conference paper on the morning he arrived, ate space cake in the afternoon, and went later to the Roxy’s Hard Night expecting complete debauchery. Instead he met the man who would deliver him ‘a lifetime of domestic bliss and marriage.’

    (The fact that his future husband was an established Bekende Nederlander, by the way, is irrelevant to both Howie and this story. As Howie says: ‘I’m just happy he has a job.’)

    Almost immediately, Howie exchanged his hotel room for the squat where his future hubby lived. ‘It was real liberating to just go for it. Dump the fear, shut up the ego, get rid of the judgement, rewrite the script and just go for it. I felt like a gift was being presented and I couldn’t refuse. Yes, it felt like Christmas. I finally stood with my palms open ready to receive. And to think all I had to do was shut up and say thank you. I also realised that we are sometimes given gifts that are never fully opened. And this city was one of those gifts.’

    This gets him onto a theme that is apparently fairly common these days among pessimists: the claim that ‘this city ain’t the same’, etc, etc. ‘OK, today there’re a lot less squats and less money around. But here are just as many parties if you look for them and it’s still sweeter than almost anywhere else on the planet. Besides, everywhere else they’re still debating abortion, gay marriage and mixed babies and all that. Here it’s all just a done deal. Sure some people might find me disgusting but at least I can sue them if they do something about it. Thank god for hate-crime legislation.’

    Dam sweet hom
    After that pleasant summer, Howie returned to Provincetown and spent a few months tying up loose ends before returning. With his boyfriend as sponsor, dealing with the foreign police was a relative snap. He even got a free coupon to learn Dutch. And through fellow squatters he quickly scored a job. The next couple of years he spent working in the kitchen at the then very-happening West Pacific at the Westergasfabriek.

    ‘After that I got one of the jobs I’m proudest of in my life,’ he tells me, warming to his tale. In short, he became a toilet lady at the legendary Roxy club. ‘Who knew you could make money from piss? I’d already done that whole define-yourself-through-your-job-thing. Now I just wanted to BE.’

    ‘Being’ for Howie meant introducing such industry innovations as the Pissenkaart — ’10 haalen, 7 betaalen’ — and evolving into a local legend thanks to a rapier wit and an even sassier dress sense.

    Even the police hoped to take advantage of his talents. ‘Years ago during that whole drug crackdown, when they were closing all those places like Mazzo because, oh my god what a shock, people were actually taking drugs, the police tried to recruit toilet ladies in the war against hard drugs. During one of their workshops, I told them that I wasn’t a drug enforcement agent. I’m a landlord. I just rent a space to people for a certain amount of time. I’m not going to search anyone and I am certainly not going to follow anyone into the toilet. If you really want me to look for drugs then I want a drug poodle!’

    Unfortunately, the police weren’t visionary enough to embrace a powerful image, and not to mention the potentially highly lucrative spin-off industries that could be built on it: that of Howie and his Drug-Busting Poodle. The cops’ loss was the Supperclub’s gain. Howie became one of their favoured faces behind the door.

    I’d been hoping to use the Supperclub’s evolution, from ‘artistic’ chaos to ‘professional’ enterprise, as a metaphor for how Amsterdam has changed in the past decade. But Howie is quick to put me in my place.

    ‘The city hasn’t changed,’ he says. ‘People have. Don’t blame this sweet and innocent city for your own troubles! In fact, there are just as many parties as before, if you actually look for them. OK, there’s no pill-testing at parties anymore — that’s something that has changed — but that’s more about Amsterdam trying to become like Europe. But what’s Europe? Amsterdam may have been more of an isolated island in the past, but it’s still totally happening.’

    I agree with Howie. I’m the one who’s changed. I admit to Howie that I’m one of those who don’t upholster the town plaid as much as they used to. He responds with a message that doesn’t exactly fill me with seasonal cheer. ‘Yes. People change. That’s natural. But the scary thing is that it means that you’re aging.’

    Thus the still-kinetic fifty-something host’s advice to the already decomposing thirty-something writer. But he tries to cheer me up again: ‘Aging, like partying, is a learned behaviour. You need practice to get good at it.’

    Yes, it’s practise, practise, practise…

    ‘Moving here when I was 42 saved my life,’ Howie continues. ‘I started here fresh without history and without bad press. At first I knew no one here who had died from AIDS. There was no sadness because there were no houses that I could walk by that belonged to friends who had died. And that was very nice for a change. Really, travel is the ultimate way to avoid a midlife crisis. Do you want to stay young? Then travel. It’s too bad travel is wasted on the young because if I wasn’t in a happy relationship, I’d be desperate to get out. Be young again in India or somewhere. Find some more tension to feed off and be forced to wake up…’

    On the job
    What is his job these days at the Supperclub, then? He’s ‘a host’ he says. ‘My job is to make sure everyone is relaxed and to break down the expectations of people who are nervous, or who confuse being hip and happening with being chic and arrogant. I just check to see if you’re happy and up for it. My role is to say: welcome and now go towards the light and be happy. If you don’t want to be happy then just stay away. I can guarantee one thing. Grumpy. People. Will. Not. Get. In.’

    The Supperclub, he says, is about the relationships between the guests and the staff. Everyone participates in the experience. ‘We provide a lot of the ingredients, but it’s up to you whether you want to bake matzo or krentenbol.’

    Am I starting to smell an all-inclusive seasonal message coming from the kitchen?

    ‘I also check reservations, arrange seating and return to my medical roots as a nurse fighting on the front line of that other drug war: the one against too much space cake,’ Howie continues. ‘It amazes me how hard soft drugs can be for some people. But I’m still learning. A while back I got into big trouble with a German lady who asked where the ladies’ room was and I answered “uni-sex, uni-sex.” Well, we have uni-sex bathrooms at the Supperclub. But she mis-heard me and started screaming: “How dare you? How dare you say:  ‘You need sex?’ What do you mean, I need sex?”’

    But in general, Howie speaks very glowingly of cross-cultural relations. ‘In the old days I used humour, but when there’s no shared first language you have to find other ways to communicate. I can be bitchy and horrible in English but in Dutch I just don’t have the nuances you need to be truly cruel. The other day, I almost got run over by a speeding car but I managed to catch up on my bike at the next stoplight. I started to scream: “Je…bent…een…onzettende…” — and then I couldn’t think of the right word, so I just yelled “douche bag”… But in general two different languages can be a real diplomatic boost to any long-term relationship. And who wants to go out with themselves anyway? Would you ask yourself out for a date?’

    Hey, we’re talking about you, Howie.

    He admits that he went through a difficult period when the Supperclub changed ownership a few years back. ‘It was extremely stressful. But it was inevitable. Supperclub wasn’t just an artists’ hangout, it had to support itself. And that meant wine had to be bought and toilets cleaned. Maybe we just took it too seriously back in those “good old days”. It was all fun and romantic, but it was just fun. It’s not as if masterpieces were being created every night at the old Supperclub.’

    As he puts it: green mashed potatoes are fun but they aren’t the heights of artistic expression. ‘The old Supperclub days were wild and crazy, but every party ends,’ Howie says. ‘In today’s economic climate it’s difficult to have a creative platform that’s self-supporting. One of the things I always loved the most about this city is its free-flowing creativity. But at some point we could no longer live the millionaire’s life on one euro.’

    Artists have to develop more business sense, Howie believes. The days of patrons and popes supporting the arts are over. Gertrude Stein is long dead…

    Family values
    A certain sense of family permeates the whole Supperclub experience — a vibe that can only be accentuated by the fact that everyone’s in bed together. Certainly the employees feel part of a larger family and this attitude has been extended to their upcoming New Year’s Eve party. Instead of asking a party promoter, they’ve decided to organise this year’s in-house. Is there any extra seasonal cheer being planned?

    ‘It’s not a heavy trip, just laidback fun,’ says Howie. ‘It’ll be about freedom and respect. Is that inclusive enough for you? Guests will get a party bag with mask, fan, name-tag and all that goodness. You’ll also get me, Host Howie, a Howie Krishna lounge with Yoga instruction, a Salon Social, clean uni-sex — or should I say u-need-sex — toilets, an attitude-free coat-check, an early DJ-free area with environmental sounds ‘n’ images.’

    ‘The door people will also not  treat you like a criminals,’  adds Howie. ‘There’ll be no negative vibes, no foreign police, no Madonna. Well OK, Madonna can come. But she has to buy her own ticket.’

    The only rule for the New Year party will be that party-goers show enthusiasm. (Oh, and the usual one: don’t be rude.) ‘If you want be nude, be nude,’ Howie says, a glint coming to his eye. ‘Or wear a tux. Just come and express yourself. Matza. Krentenbol. Pick your own dish. Wearing your own skin might be an excellent start to creating your own happy new year.’


    Photography by Sophie Morner

  • Belgrade, a Lonely Planet

    Belgrade, a Lonely Planet

    What are the chances of getting Belgrade on the EasyJet circuit any time soon? Serbian rock star and public intellectual Vladimir Jeric of Darkwood Dub gives us a tour of the White City and all its shades of grey.

    By Steve Korver, 14-12-2006, Amsterdam Weekly.

    Belgrade is scenically located at the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers where cliffs rise to form the fortress Kalemegdan, the perfect setting to enjoy some ‘liquid of the soul’, slivovic, while the sun sets. The city has been an East-meets-West crossroads for millennia, which made it one of the more cosmopolitan cities in its region. It is also home to the hottest peppers, the meatiest mixed grills and the wickedest Romani brass tunes. The cultural scene is vibrant and fuelled by a large student population. Hell, it’s even home to the Nikola Tesla museum!

    AmsterdamWeekly_Issue49_14D

    ‘That’s very romantic of you,’ Vladimir Jeric, AKA Vlidi, says over smokes and coffee; obviously the bespectacled Serbian rock musician and media pundit comes equipped with a good dose of jaded Belgrade humour. He’s in town for this week’s ‘Rough Guide to Belgrade’, hosting a media programme at De Balie and playing with his legendary underground band Darkwood Dub in the Melkweg. However, he’s not much help at providing a nice fluff piece that champions Belgrade as a new central European hotspot: ‘Belgrade is ugly; don’t go for the architecture. I only return for the people.’

    Since the civil wars broke up the former Yugoslavia in the 1990s, Belgrade—the ‘White City’—continues to reflect a full spectrum of greys (but it’s still cooler than Prague).

    A distinct marketing problem
    Belgrade as a brand has been battling a marketing problem ever since Geert Wilders look-a-like Slobodan Milosevic used it as a base for his populist Serbian nationalist agenda. But, even while manipulating elections both directly and through the state-controlled media, he would never win an election in Belgrade itself. The ensuing wars, UN sanctions and NATO bombings created both monetary and cultural poverty. Later hot-housing of gangsters by Milosevic only cemented its status as pariah in Europe. The immediate fall-out was that hundreds of thousands of residents left—thousands came to Amsterdam alone.

    Those who stayed—and who did not succumb to drug or alcohol addiction in those dreary times—were forced to be creative. Vlidi stayed. ‘I was just stubborn… What happened cannot be summed up in a few words. The basic info is out there. But who’s to blame? You can interpret much by looking at the groups of people who now own the region: follow the money and the distribution of power. But what happened has not been studied enough. A multi-ethnic nation fell apart—with definite warning signs. I’m still puzzled why the EU isn’t interested in researching these signs, so these things don’t repeat.

    ‘The increasing influence and power of media were fundamental. Political agendas were channelled through pop culture and media. On that level, it became a battle between “strategic media”, owned by the businesses and government, and “tactical” media, based on ground-up and self-organised networks of resistance. Media was key to the sustainability of the regime at the time, and the same media machine is still being used by the post-5 October [2000, the date Milosevic was ousted] government.’ The former Yugoslavia already had both types of media in place: a state apparatus which governed very much from above—but there was also personal freedom relative to its Eastern Bloc neighbours—that helped create its famed underground music scene and network.

    Darkwood Dub formed in 1988 and Vlidi remembers the tail-end of those glory days. ‘Belgrade bands would hold their biggest shows in Zagreb. And vice versa.’ In the 1990s, that network was destroyed by war. The nationalists started exploiting popular music to romanticise both Serbian identity and the gangster lifestyle. It came to be called ‘turbofolk’, though the term was appropriated from Montenegrin musician Rambo Amadeus, who used it satirically. A merry dance indeed.

    Belgrade as export product
    There was a resistance movement, however. Student group OTPOR did the organising, Radio B92 provided the news and soundtrack and, thanks to modems, Real Audio and server space volunteered by Amsterdam’s own—and then still more hacktivist—XS4ALL, it could continue broadcasting even when Milosevic tried to ban it during the three-month-long student uprising in 1996-7, where between 100,000 and 200,000 people a day stormed the streets to protest and party. But Vlidi believes Wired magazine was premature in describing it as the first ‘Internet Revolution’. After all, in the end, Milosevic ended up consolidating his power, UN sanctions continued and NATO bombing began. It was only in October 2000 that dissident forces, along with a united front of democratic parties and businesses, protested Milosevic’s refusal to accept his election loss.

    In the prelude to these elections, Darkwood Dub—if you like the name, you’ll like their music—played 26 Serbian cities to rally disillusioned youth into registering their votes. It worked. ‘October 2000 was great. It was charged with optimism and seen as the long-awaited award. But it was in fact just the beginning—all the structures and most of the people were still in place. Everyone was exhausted already and so disappointment was inevitable.’

    But did the revolution succeed? Milosevic did end up at The Hague Tribunal. Student activists were sent off to spread their version of noisy, peaceful and internet- fuelled revolution to Georgia in 2003—where they even used much of the same branding, including OTPOR’s raised fist. This was the same year as pro- Europe and democracy Prime Minister Zoran Dindic was assassinated as a reprisal for his battle against organised crime. His death formed the impetus for mass arrests and finally, the jails were getting full.

    ‘The revolution was a failure,’ says Vlidi. ‘And one should not export failure. Anyway you cannot just directly cut-and-paste an approach on another situation. In Belgrade, the real gangsters are still in power. They just got rid of the competition. Big business won. Heineken. Tuborg. People are now distracted with loans and mortgages. You can actually say nothing has changed.

    ‘Belgrade is the largest city in the region. It would be natural if it became a major node for ideas and culture again. We could have caught up much more quickly if we studied other countries in transition. We could have cut and paste what worked there to save time. For instance, Slovenia’s government now runs forty-two per cent of its software on open source Linux operating systems. We could have been inspired by what is going on in Brazil. We needed a culture minister like Gilberto Gil!’

    Belgrade today
    Meanwhile, broadcaster B92 has gone mainstream: the radio plays the Billboard chart, the TV is launching Big Brother. ‘[It] equally aligns videos, silicon tits and deaths in Iraq—you can’t take it seriously,’ says Vlidi.

    Meanwhile liberal-intellectual magazine Vreme, another beacon of light in those times, ‘now only speaks to the two hundred people who are mentioned in it’. On Wednesday in De Balie, Vlidi joins a panel that includes the director of B92 and a Vreme columnist. Sparks will fly.

    There’s good news, too: underground music scenes from the old republics are reuniting and festivals like Exit attract 150,000 visitors, many from the other former republics. But the political reality remains: in Novi Sad, where Exit takes place, 80% of the population support the Serbian Radical Party, fronted by Vojislav Seselj who said: ‘We will scoop Croat eyeballs out with a rusty spoon’ and who is currently recovering from a hunger strike while awaiting trial in Den Haag.

    So, go to Belgrade, but not as a disaster tourist. Otherwise you might as well stay home and read stories about Dutch-Bat’s medals for Srebrenica. But even then, keep a sense of proportion: ‘If you think Dutch politics are going through rough times at the moment, check out Serbia’s,’ says Vlidi. ‘Then take an aspirin.’

    Illustration by Nenad Vukmirovic

  • Are Archives Sexy and Dynamic?

    Are Archives Sexy and Dynamic?

    Amsterdam’s new city archive on Vijzelstraat is one of the largest in the world and is now open for business. Can you feel the excitement? Well, some folks can—especially when the numbers and the details turn into some hardcore stories.

    By Steve Korver,  13-09-2007, cover feature, Amsterdam Weekly

    ‘So can archives be hot and thrilling?’

    ‘Very,’ replies Hans Visser (1958), head of information services at Amsterdam’s Stadsarchief, as his eyes begin to glimmer. His response was not quite a ‘hell yeah!’ but it was very close.

    AmsterdamWeekly_Issue37_13S

    Of course, part of the excitement stems from the archive’s new location, the epic De Bazel building, a former bank built between 1919 and 1926, which is now, after a ‚¬65 million renovation, as light-infused inside as it is in-your-face imposing from outside. Open since August, the Stadsarchief this week unveils, complete with Queen, pomp, and much circumstance, its Schatkamer or ‘treasure room’.

    This intricately designed and restored two-floored hall—really the ultimate hang-out for the Egyptian mummy crowd—will feature such prizes as the paperwork that shows how Amsterdam bankers helped finance the ‘Louisiana Purchase’ in 1803, when the US doubled in size by making the largest land deal in history with a cash-strapped Napoleon. But it will also have seven-inch singles from the great Rotterdam singer of Amsterdam songs, Louis ‘De Kleine Man’ Davids (1883-1939).

    But the true richness of this collection is its 35 kilometres of files—and it ain’t just knipsels. The stored memory of Amsterdam and its millions of residents also includes books, magazines, newspapers, letters, drawings, prints, photos, films and sound recordings. Visser himself began working at the archive as a librarian in 1991, when it was still the Gemeente Archief and located on Amsteldijk. In 2000, he took on his present job of making the archives as accessible as possible to the public. He can still get all worked up about the role. ‘I can’t imagine anything more suspenseful. The whole of life, and especially society, is locked up in the archive. It’s not just official government records, but also private collections from cultural institutions, businesses and famous Amsterdammers. Pretty much “everything” tussen haakjes.’

    ‘Now, thanks to digitalisation and a proper organisation of the collection, a lot of it is easily accessible through the website. We have two million scans online already. If we continue at the rate we’re now going at—ten thousand scanned documents a week—we should have the most important parts of the collection, which number approximately two hundred and twenty five million pieces, online in the next ten years.’

    Good God. These ambitions sound near Mormon-like.

    Mormons as the archivist’s archivist
    The Mormons come up a lot in conversations with archive aficionados. A quirk in the religion has members tracing their family trees to find the names of ancestors who had died before benefiting from being saved, Mormon-style. Once documented, these past relatives can be baptised by proxy in the temple. Currently, about 2.4 million rolls of microfilm containing two billion names are stored behind 14-ton doors in the Granite Mountain Records Vault, a climate-controlled repository built into a Utah mountain range. And, yes folks, it was designed to withstand a nuclear blast.

    ‘We know the Mormons well, of course. They started coming here in the 1960s to copy huge amounts of information. There’s nothing childish about their approach,’ says Visser. Of most interest to the Mormons, and anyone wanting to do a bit of carving into their family tree, are the Stadsarchief’s identity records. Currently all 1.1 million ‘person cards’ from between 1939 and 1964 have been digitalised, along with about 600,000 ‘family cards’ from between the late 19th century and 1939. And before 1811, people were registered through the church via ‘birth books’, ‘wedding books’ and ‘grave books’. The database now has five million names and counting.

    Numbers into stories
    But numbers are numbers that only get exciting when they become a story. Visser comes up with a serious one: ‘There was a Jewish man, who came from a family of market traders, who was given away during the war by his parents, who were being transported to concentration camps. He ended up in the countryside, being raised by [another] family. After the war, no one from his [birth] family returned and he had no mementoes of them. About four years ago, he had heard about our files of market licences, and that on these licences are photos. Through them, he actually found photos of not only his parents but also his grandparents. That had an impact, let me tell you…

    ‘Or it can be more trivial. A friend of mine who lived on Westerdokstraat during the 1950s looked it up in our image bank [the online beeldbank currently has over 220,000 photos] and not only found a picture of his house but, in front of it, his mother and aunt, along with his father’s VW Beetle. If you look closely, you can even make out his grandmother in the window. That’s just fantastic. Imagine that moment of recognition! And it’s exactly those instances of petit histoire coming to life that makes this great work.’

    The glint in Visser’s eyes is now turned up to 11.

    Murder and manslaughter
    ‘Well the gleam in my eye is from the fact I’m allergic to dust—not really the best start for someone who spends so much time in archives,’ states Eric Slot (1960), journalist and crime historian, who was recommended by several archive users as the best person to help find a nice, hot archive story. In his favourite bar—Cafe De Zwart on Spui—he is smoking cigars. We drink beer. It is old-school journalism at its best.

    Slot is naturally happy about the squeaky clean and freshly dusted Stadsarchief. ‘The only thing I miss is Louise’s soup, now that the staff canteen is separate from the public one.’ Slot made a splash last year with the book De dood van een onderduiker (Mouria, 2006) which used archival research to question film-maker Louis van Gasteren’s claim that, in 1943, he had beaten to death the hiding Jewish man, Walter Oettinger, because Oettinger’s erratic behaviour threatened resistance people. Whenever anyone suggested other motives besides this relatively noble one, Van Gasteren would initiate a lawsuit, as he did against Slot himself when the ‘Murder on Beethovenstraat’ was featured as one of 100 murders covered in his 1998 book Wandelingen door moorddadig Amsterdam [‘Walks through murderous Amsterdam’].

    Slot’s publisher decided to remove the book from the stores. Understandably resentful, Slot was motivated to dig deeper, and spent a total of three working years—spread over the next seven—doing just that. When Van Gasteren took him to court to stop the product of his toils, the judge saw no reason to ban the book, since it was based on documentation and made no mention of what could have been the real motive.

    Slot has also dug deep into other affairs. His first book Vijf gulden eeuwen. Momenten uit 500 jaar gemeentefinancien, Amsterdam 1490-1990 (Gemeente Amsterdam, 1998) was commissioned by the city itself to investigate its own financial dirty laundry. Not surprisingly, Slot found lots of fraud.

    Mixing it up
    ‘The Stadsarchief is especially interesting since it’s so impossibly huge,’ says Slot. ‘When taken separately an archive may only be of passing interest, but when you use it with others you can really get somewhere. Of course those “family cards” and “residence cards” are incredibly boring stuff, but by combining that with other information, such as from the police archives, which you need special permission for, or from some other private or business archives—not to mention the newspapers and magazines. ‘Newspaper clippings alone are an incredible source of information, and at the Stadsarchief that’s all thanks to some crazy guy who started to preserve newspaper clippings in 1840 on every imaginable subject. So now if you want to know something about bathhouses in Amsterdam—I wouldn’t know why, but just imagine—you now have in one handy a place all the articles on bathhouses since 1840. And it’s the same with murder and manslaughter. Very handy.’

    Another amazing feature of the archives is the staff. ‘There’s a specialist in everything there. If you have a picture of an Amsterdam street and you have no idea where it is, there’s someone there who will know—as long as you can catch them running down the halls. And that kind of knowledge only builds up over many, many years.’

    In other words, by working in and creating archives, one becomes an archive. With your own personal built-in search engine.

    So what has been the happiest of eureka moments for Slot? ‘With De dood van een onderduiker, it was probably what I found in the child protection service archive—and very lucky it was, since they only saved one out of every ten boxes of their collection. There was a dossier about the sister of Van Gasteren—who was having some trouble raising her child—and there was an actual statement from Van Gasteren in 1956 about something that happened ten years before. Bingo. He said she had had a relationship with a German soldier—and that was information that I could do something with. Only then did I realise the power of combining these different archives.

    ‘But, of course, there are also these other moments of pure coincidence. For example, I was looking for one of the original detectives working on the Van Gasteren case. All I knew was that he was called Timmerman. And while I was actually working on a whole other subject I just stumbled across him. And those kinds of moments happen a lot. Especially because you don’t go through an archive once or twice or three times. You go through them at least ten times because you have to go back every time you find something new. Only then can you make more connections and discoveries.’

    Keeping it present
    Currently, Slot is busy working on a book about the criminal underworld of the penose on the Wallen during the 1950s and 1960s and is in the archive almost daily, out to reconstruct life as it was then. ‘You can take the police records and compare with pictures in the Stadarchief’s image bank with all these pictures of buildings, where you can see exactly what they were: a liquor store or a carpenter workshop or a bordello. And all these details you can use to fill in the blanks of a particular police report of a crime that occurred there. The more extra information and local colour you get, the more you actually begin to see it as it actually was.

    ‘As far as I’m concerned, the nineteenth century could have never existed. But there are still so many interesting and entertaining stories to be written from archives that can say a lot about what’s happening right now. This Wallen book will reflect what’s happening now in the criminal circuit. For instance, with the famous prostitute murders of Magere Josje and Chinese Annie in the 1950s: there’s a lot more in the police report than ever reaches the papers. And it’s those extra details that help make the story. The basic story is very simple: woman murdered and killer never found or convicted, anyway. But the real story is about the relations between the people involved. These dossiers can also tell you exactly how those peeskamers looked. Everything is described and in words that never made it to the Dikke van Van Dale. You just can’t invent that sort of stuff… Reading these reports you really begin to sense the police’s relative naiveté. They were used to the husband standing over the wife with a bloody knife, and now they were confronted with these murders of prostitutes by unknown assailants. They were just not used to it. And actually it’s these murders and a few others that are the precedent for the liquidations of today. Those murders changed everything. The police had to become more systemised and detailed in their documentation to ensure a conviction.’ In other words, the archives had to become much thicker.

    What story is Slot itching to research next? ‘My latest book De vergeten geschiedenis van Nederland in de Tweede Wereldoorlog (2007) ended with a few post-war affairs One of them began in 1945, when a man claiming to be Paul George de Bruyn Ouboter was arrested heading east across the border at Enschede. He had a SS mark tattooed on his arm. But he was Dutch. And, most likely, he did something highly criminal on the eastern front and maybe even in the Netherlands itself. The authorities spent five or six years trying to figure out his real name. He said he was born in Amsterdam, but there were no records. There’s still a huge dossier on him. But who was that man? They never found out, so eventually he was freed and he went directly to South America.’ Slot pauses, ‘And that says quite a bit… And I think I can still find out his true identity by diving into the archives.’

    ‘And there are thousands of stories like that still to be found yet within the Stadsarchief. And really if you can’t find something, anything, no matter what it is, go to the Stadsarchief. It’s probably just waiting there.’

    It’s enough to make a person into a glinty eyed Mormon.

  • A Jungle of Monkeys

    A Jungle of Monkeys

    With Kunststad, the country’s largest broedplaats for the arts, officially opened at NDSM-werf, the participants can finally get on with some serious creating and interacting. But there’s other interactions brewing: for the wharf can be seen as an even larger ‘breeding ground’ where art and commerce are supposed to get together and cuddle. But will it ever evolve into something more than just a torrid affair?

    Cover feature, Amsterdam Weekly.

    It’s a vibrant Saturday afternoon at Kunststad—think of it as an arty village that has crash-landed in the wonderfully apocalyptic setting of a former ship warehouse—as people put the finishing touches to their studio spaces before this weekend’s grand unveiling. A set-builder is banging in a window frame to let light into his workshop. A man in orange overalls is expressing glee at his new power sander. Many are frantically painting walls. A car is being sawn to bits. The anarchic theatre platform, PickUp Club, is busy with a sound check for a benefit they are throwing that night for an incarcerated colleague in Finland. A pleasant vibe reigns. Even as the uninsulated Skatepark, suspended above, provides a more rolling than rocking soundtrack.

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    And in a clearing—an evolving town square of sorts—between the two floors of 100 studios for 240 artists, designers, musicians, animators, architects and graffiti artists, two men and a woman are banging together some makeshift plant pots while five-metre-long bamboo plants lay prone, awaiting their new home. When asked what they were up to, Paul Dams, a ship’s carpenter who now shares a studio with a photographer he’ll be developing silk-screened furniture with, answers with a twinkle in his eye: ‘We’re building a jungle. Then maybe we’ll let some monkeys loose and see what happens.’ An urge to strip down to my loincloth and volunteer for the experiment is suppressed. Wow, interaction sure happens fast here.

    Indeed, Kunststad comes across as a higher primate paradise for the arts, where the interaction should prove to be spicy. The PickUp Club, whose activities do a very efficient job of sprawling into the halls, began squatting Kloveniersburgwal 131, the ABN-AMRO building on Rembrandtsplein and the iT nightclub, but ended up here ‘because we had no where else to go.’ Their artistic director Marc Koolen now finds himself feeling sorry for his new neighbours: ‘There they are focused and concentrated on designing tiny bits of jewellery and then they have us as neighbours. And we’re a pretty loud bunch.’ He smiles with understatement. Maybe iPod sponsorship could solve the problem for the sound-sensitive. Hey, maybe art and commerce can work together!

    Kunststad, as a whole, also has to deal with all the rest of the activities occurring around the wharf, such as the alternative ship Stubnitz, temporarily moored nearby, the lovely cafe-restaurant Noorderlicht, and the various festivals like Robodock and Over het IJ, which regularly take place here. Meanwhile, the new MTV Europe headquarters and the developers Media Wharf are on hand for commercial contrast and as potential work-givers. It should prove to be quite a party. With a lot of talk, talk, talk.

    Building up a village
    Kunststad is really an only-in-Amsterdam construct. It grew out of the Kinetisch Noord foundation, which began in 1999 as an initiative of squatters, artists, theatre makers, skaters and architects who sought to make NDSM-werf the biggest broedplaats in the country, offering affordable studios with the interiors built by the artists themselves. It was meant to help fill the void left a decade ago when Amsterdam was marketing itself as the ‘Gateway to Europe’ and creating a milieu where such culturally happening squats as Silo and Vrieshuis Amerika were emptied and much office space was built for all those happy hordes of corporations that would, with a bit of luck, set up their European headquarters here. Sadly not enough came—but we do have an explanation why there’s so much empty expensive office space nowadays. And, these days, we are also in midst of a new branding programme, Amsterdam as ‘Creative City’, and a mission to create affordable studio spaces through the new broedplaats policy. Happily we live a city rich enough to at least try to fix its past mistakes. Albeit with a lot of rules on top.

    And with money from the Broedplaats fund, the city of Amsterdam, the Ministerie van VROM (the Ministry of Housing, Spatial Planning and the Environment) and Stadsdeel Amsterdam-Noord (also the owners of the buildings), it all came together. A city-appointed official took over as head of Kinetisch Noord. Roel de Jong, the current managing director is quick to defend his position: ‘I don’t see it as a way for the city to keep control over the foundation. OK, I work for the gemeente and they rent me out, but I’m here on behalf of the foundation and not of the city. The big advantage is that I know a lot of people in the city and, from my previous jobs, know how real estate developers work and think.’

    We are talking a whole new frontier here. Just as on a smaller scale, creative types usually have to find a balance between their personal work and the work that puts bread on the table, NDSM on a larger scale has to find a balance between commerce that makes money, and culture that costs money. It can be said that NDSM is Amsterdam—even the world—in microcosm.

    And while the Kunststadders—can we think of a better name please?—all seem very happy to be here, jungle-builder Dams expresses an often heard sentiment: ‘Het klopt helemaal niet. There are too many things that remain unclear.’

    It sounds  as if  one could get all journalistic over here. Or, then again, one could just take a stroll around the surrounding landscapes and stare out to the water. Lovely—especially on a beautiful day. And to risk sounding like a travel brochure: all this a mere 15-minute free ferry ride from Centraal Station!

    Then, an SUV passes with a guy in a suit and a digital camera clicking away. Just like in the movies. Is this a project developer out to pop a snow dome over the Kunststad and start building condos all over them?

    Balancing act
    But the suit monkeys don’t worry De Jong, who has developed a more nuanced view, since it’s his main job to juggle all the different parties—from ex-squatters that go ‘grr grr’ to Jeep-driving developers. ‘Oh, you see them a couple of times a day, but come on, everyone is free to come around and take pictures and—who knows?—maybe some of them will actually come up with an interesting plan. Let them see what’s going on over here. Not only with the Kunststad, but also in the Oostvleugel and with the people down by the water who are similarly busy.’

    With Kunststad finished—or at least, onto the next phase—De Jong sees his job throughout 2008 to ‘ensure that the broedplaats policy remains a fundamental part of the area and also to get more festivals to the wharf. With MTV opening their doors, more similar companies will be attracted here—all with their own ideas and plans. Meanwhile, the commercial developer for the area, Media Wharf, is making plans. And most of our ideas are similar: to make a space dedicated to arts, media and the creative sector. But you also have to take into account that they are a commercial developer. Developers, besides the basic creative concept, also count their money. And our job at Kinetic Noord is to make sure the balance remains right. To make money. But also to promote culture—and that costs money.’

    ‘With the rest of Amsterdam tightly developed, this is one of the last places where commerce doesn’t have to completely taken over. It’s a perfect location, close to the centre but isolated enough that you can organise events for up to fifty thousand people without too many people complaining about the noise. And I think it’s very important that such a place exists not only for the people that use it, but also for Amsterdam, even the Netherlands. And the city—both Centrum and here in Noord—are very well aware of its importance and that’s why they want to keep this one here at least until 2027. They have invested a lot of money here, after all.’

    They are also looking for a way of getting some of it back—and this pressure will only grow. And while MTV—renowned for using up-and-coming young graphics and video people for its idents and branding—will likely provide bottom up work for the creatives working in the area, they will also attract more companies which in turn will continue to elevate the real estate prices. Hence there will be more and more pressure from the commerce side in the form of offers that Stadsdeel Noord may not be able to resist.

    De Jong seeks to reassure: ‘Any new owner would have to respect the existing contracts between the artists and Kinetic Noord. Of course, there’s more security if the city owns it, but if it does get sold you will just have to write down clearly that this broedplaats has to stay here. If they want to develop some parts that’s fine, but then within the profile of it staying a creative place. And if you make the right deal then it’s no problem, but you have to be really aware and look out for your own position.’

    Speculating
    But this uncertainty does fuel much speculation on how exactly things will play out here. Can De Jong offer any more optimism that balance will truly be achieved? ‘We must create a definitive new urban plan for this area. And to keep talking, talking, talking. Open yourself to the outside. Let yourself be heard. Make sure you have a cultural programme. And keep the “wow what a place” buzz going. We need more Robodocks and Over het IJ festivals. The more you put yourself on the map, the more indispensable you become.’ So will it be an ongoing battle in the coming years? ‘Absolutely,’ answers De Jong.

    Meanwhile, the speculation is not hard to tap into at Kunststad, already a breeding ground for healthy gossip. But here the tom-tom doesn’t happen around the office water-cooler or village pump but around, for example (there are a lot of colourful options here), a psychedelic shack that says ‘C’est ne pas un bittorbal’ [sic]. Here you can hear the doomsday scenario where the  city says ‘sorry, you’ve wasted all the money and it’s time to pull the plug,’ and the Kunststad is dismantled in a week… About the wastes of money like the elevator that is built to hold 250,000 kilos, but which goes to a floor that begins buckling at 250 kilos… What it means that talks with Joop van den Ende Productions about taking over one of the halls have stalled… How the bottom-up plan of Kunststad is already clashing with the top-down ways of city government… Oh and has anyone seen my hammer?

    In short: there are enough stories here to change this paper’s name into the NDSM Weekly. So stay tuned. This could become bigger than Big Brother—we could even call it the De Gouden Kunstkooi. And maybe those guys in jeeps are not developers but casting agents. Anything’s possible.

  • Sawnic Revolution

    Sawnic Revolution

    An emerging musical saw scene is setting the city’s teeth on edge.

    By Steve Korver, 18-10-2007, Amsterdam Weekly.

    ‘There are six of us,’ says Erin Woshinsky, when asked if there’s an emerging musical saw scene. And indeed, there seems to be many following the sawdust trail set by Marlene Dietrich—who used hers to entertain the troops—and the protagonist of Delicatessen who played his on the rooftops of Paris whenever he felt bummed out.

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    Woshinsky, AKA Miss Whips, plays singing saw in the duo Bad Kitten with a guitarist who could be David Lynch’s even weirder brother. Woshinsky explains: ‘I first heard it on a Melvins’ record a couple of years ago. It was such a sad, but beautiful, song. I got a normal saw and made a bow out of a stick and some fishing line. It worked—kind of. But later, someone gave me a Stradivarius.’

    Before being given one—also a Sandvik Stradivarius—for his birthday 10 years ago by a musician friend, Wim Elzinga (‘I am a painter/musician/huisvader’) had only heard of the musical saw from Pippi Longstocking. ‘Apparently, beside Sandvik’s huge saw factory in Germany, there’s some old guy in a shack who makes them.’ While one can use any old saw—in theory—the official musical saw has unsharpened teeth that all go in the same direction. ‘Once, in an emergency, I actually had to use it to saw something and it worked, but not so well,’ says Elzinga, ‘with every stroke or two, it got stuck. But I do imagine Scandinavia when I play it—that it was invented by some lumberjacks who just got bored, drunk and stumbled across the sound.’

    Woshinsky, meanwhile, sees it as a hillbilly thing: ‘Whisky. Back porch. Saws and spoons. You know.’

    Elzinga has a broad saw repertoire: ‘People are really impressed when I break into the ‘Wilhelmus’. I also like to play Caruso songs, all that Naples opera stuff. I was on vacation on Sicily and it was working out horribly: we got robbed, but we bought a tape of Caruso at a gas station and it really saved the trip. In fact, I think the saw sounds like one of those over-the-top fat lady opera singers. All vibrato. It’s really a compelling sound. More metallic and not wooden like a violin. When you amplify it and add galm… Ah, it’s just beautiful.’

    Woshinsky has had a variety of feedback to her playing. ‘People react really weirdly to it when we play on the street. Some think it’s hilarious. Others think I’m tricking them—that the sound is coming from somewhere else. Once on the streets of Taiwan, a goose started squawking in time to the music. Another time we were playing under the entrance to Zuiderkerk and someone from the apartment above dumped water on us. And just last weekend, some young pimply-faced cop said we couldn’t play it on the streets because it was a weapon. Can you believe that?’

    In December, Elzinga is programming Tuesday nights at De Nieuwe Anita and hopes to get together with a couple of other local saw players. A power-saw trio? You heard it here: not even the  police will be able to keep this  revolution down.

  • Strangerrrrr than Fiction

    Strangerrrrr than Fiction

    Cat Dancers is a deeply odd trip into the world of Ron Holiday, complete with wild cats, love triangles, spandex and—ultimately—tragedy. And most strange of all perhaps, it’s not exploitative.

    By Steve Korver, 22-11-2007, cover feature, Amsterdam Weekly.


    There’s no way not to be dramatic about this story: bisexual boy meets girl, they get married and together they rule the world as a professional dancing couple—‘limos, champagne, everything’. This is how the lives of Ron and Joy Holiday began. All was glitter and gold. And spandex.

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    When their bodies started breaking down, they started to move into animal acts—spurred on by their friend William Holden, the star of Sunset Boulevard, who first gave them a black leopard as a gift. The act grew and they needed a third party which came in the form of a handsome, and much younger, exotic animal trainer Chuck Lizza.

    Joy said: ‘I saw him first.’ Later Ron would say: ‘Yes, but I had him first’. Soon the three formed a love triangle—a three-ring love circus of sorts. But no one knew. And all was good. Until 1998. Chuck was killed by Jupiter, their prized White Bengal tiger who was like a son to all of them. A deeply depressed Joy followed five weeks later when she entered Jupiter’s cage ‘and was thrown six feet in the air.’

    Director Harris Fishman spent seven years on this tale, sifting through 160 extravagant hours of 8-millimeter films and videos, and befriending the lone survivor Ron. The result is riveting and often poetic viewing. And most strange of all perhaps, it’s not exploitative. We talk to Fishman from his home in Los Angeles.

    How did you discover this story?
    In 1998 my younger brother, Adam, was studying at Amazing Exotics, where Ron was teaching animal husbandry. Ron became Adam’s mentor. My mother told me, ‘You got to meet this guy. I think his story would make an amazing film.’ So I owe a lot to my family for my original inspiration.

    I’m assuming that Ron didn’t need much convincing?
    Ron was very interested in the idea initially. People had approached him before, even before the tragedies, to turn his story into a movie, but it never worked out. I first spent a great deal of time getting to know Ron and becoming friends with him without shooting any footage, to make him feel comfortable, relaxed and able to trust me. At first, the tragic deaths of Joy and Chuck were still very fresh (for lack of a better word) in his mind. So while Ron is a great raconteur and likes the spotlight in many ways, he was guarded, cautious and at times sceptical. But during the seven years it took to make the film, Ron went through a catharsis that made it less painful for him to share his story. The three of them were very private, and in a sense he was putting [their lives] on display, ultimately knowing that it would open them to outside judgement—not just the way Joy and Chuck died, but his training methods and, most importantly, the love they shared. That was very hard for Ron especially, because Joy and Chuck, as he said, were taken away from him and he felt very alone. I did not want to be a part of that ‘judgement’. As a documentarian, I think it is important to leave the story open to many interpretations. Ron knew I respected him and saw him as a whole person—not just some character living an alternative lifestyle ripe for exploitation. But it also took me a long time to figure out the best way to show Ron—his life then and now—and what I wanted to say. There are so many themes underlying the part of Ron’s life shown in the film: loss and death, alternative lifestyles and ‘otherisation’, man versus animal, sexuality, omnipotence and potency, male versus female, control, animals in captivity, etc. So how to show that and not be exploitive and also engage the audience in the love story and the compassion I feel for Ron was extremely important. I did not want that to get lost through the shock of the tragedies. The film is not a traditional exposé; it’s a love story gone wrong and about one man who is trying to survive the loss of his family and make sense of that, and the life he lived.

    It’s suggested that Joy committed suicide, but not really confirmed. What’s your opinion?
    That’s a hard one. I do think she had a strong desire to die at the time. Whether her going into Jupiter’s cage was premeditated in the sense that she thought Jupiter would kill her, I don’t know. I’m not sure she consciously thought or believed that Jupiter would do such a thing. That’s why they didn’t put Jupiter down after Chuck’s death. Even though they knew he was inbred, I still think they didn’t want to believe that their baby—their son, Jupiter—could commit such acts. I also found it compelling that Ron spoke about Dr Kervorkian as a hero of sorts and that is why I chose to include his reference to Kervorkian in the film—so as to provoke questions in the audience as they relate to how and why Joy may have died.

    Their training method seems to suggest it’s all about love and affection between human and beast. But isn’t animal training more about being the leader of the pack, the alpha male? Could that explain a bit why things went wrong?
    Maybe on some level. I do think that Ron was the ‘alpha male’, which is interesting since he is the survivor. When I see footage of Chuck, I don’t know that he ever felt truly in control with the cats. If you compare the stills of Ron and Joy with their cats that are interspersed throughout the film, I think it’s clear they are in charge. But the news footage, for example, of Chuck with Shogun, shows him being a little timid and maybe not completely at ease. But it is hard to say, because it’s clear that some of the animals chose Chuck as their ‘leader of the pack’. Also, the animals were kept in enclosed habitats once they got big, so in a sense they were ‘captive’ and clearly being led by Ron, Joy and Chuck.

    Do you see a link with Werner Herzog’s Grizzly Man and the theme of ‘you probably don’t want to fuck with nature’?
    Yes. That film was an inspiration. I often reflected on the myth surrounding Icarus and how it was relevant to the lives of Ron, Joy and Chuck. Eventually, if you play with fire long enough someone is bound to get hurt. Wild animals should be in the wild—or so goes the logic.

    How do you see the current function of zoos and animal acts? Did your views shift during the film-making process?
    When it comes to animal acts, my brother is still working with tigers and I worry about him a lot. But it makes him feel alive and connected. I’m still trying to understand the life Ron, Joy and Chuck and my brother, Adam, have chosen in terms of working with wild animals. I have tremendous respect for what they do but it still worries me. There is no doubt that the inherent danger is fundamental to the exhilaration people experience when devoting their lives to these wild animals. That said, the sad reality is we need people dedicated to the welfare and wellbeing of exotic animals because there will always be animals born into captivity.

    What’s Ron doing now?
    Ron is living in Florida and teaching ballet. In a way, he has gone back to the beginning. One of the great things about the film is that it gives Ron a chance to travel again. When the film was at the LA Film Festival, Ron came for the screenings. It was the first time he had travelled since Joy and Chuck died. It was thrilling and I think reinvigorating for him, which made me very happy for him.

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    Holiday won’t be at the Dutch premier of Cat Dancers—’My ballet company is putting on its first show, Phantom of the Opera, and I’ve designed some amazing costumes.’ But he’ll certainly be there in spirit as he tells us on the phone from his home in Grand Island, Florida.

    So how did you end up having such a deeply strange life?
    Well, I don’t consider my life strange. Certainly unique from the point of view of others, I suppose… I was raised on a farm in Maine. My mother was a violinist and my father a farmer. Music and animals: it was the best of both worlds. She inspired me to ballet and he to animals. He didn’t love the fact that I was a dancer.

    What did you think of the film?
    I  wouldn’t change a hair. Which surprised me. When the whole process began, I had crossed the line of sanity and it took me a while to get back. Harris was so patient. In fact, he’s the most patient man I’ve ever met. I wrote the nastiest letters. I threw him out of the house and locked the doors. It brought up all the horrors again. But the whole process healed me. I’m actually happy now and I never thought I’d ever say that again.

    Anything missing from the film?
    Well, it could only cover the tip of the iceberg—unless you wanted to make a two-day documentary. But the film represents less my life and more so the whole process of recovery. I had a great life and career. Money. Fame. But then I lost the two people I loved. I was getting sued by four different law firms. One day, I was walking my three dogs down Main Street wondering where I would end up. Burger King maybe? I passed a window where some construction workers were building a dance studio and I just went in and asked if they needed a ballet teacher and that started the ball rolling again.

    So you’re putting off your plans to join the monks who live in Thailand with the wild cats when you’re 80?
    Yes. I said that when I was still lost. Oh I’m still going to go but I’m not putting a timeline on it anymore.

    And do your young ballet students know about your past?
    Well, with the internet and all that, they sometimes ask about it. Did that really all happen? And I answer them honestly.

    And how did they react?
    They just go ‘wow!’ That’s it.

  • Sitting Down with Cinema Savant Hans Beerekamp

    Sitting Down with Cinema Savant Hans Beerekamp

    The Netherlands’ best-known film critic weighs in on the responsibilities of the trade, the Dutch film mafia and the local film climate. ‘If you go to the Dutch film festival, you can really observe the behaviour of rats in a small, overcrowded cage with too little food…’

    By Steve Korver, 24-01-2008, cover feature, Amsterdam Weekly

    It would be safe to call Hans Beerekamp (born in 1952) the eminence grise of Dutch film criticism. For 26 years, he was the film editor of NRC Handelsblad, earning a reputation for his encyclopaedic film knowledge, before becoming the paper’s TV critic in 2003—‘I no longer have to choose between just five or six releases every week.’ In 2007 he toured Europe in search of a ‘European identity’. The future of cinema, he says, is in Romania.

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    How did you get interested in film?
    When I was about 13-years-old I became a film addict and started spending most of my pocket money going to the cinema five to eight times a week. This was connected to a certain shyness, I think. You see that with a lot of film buffs: we want to get an idea of what the world looks like, but don’t actually want to participate. And it was more of a secret passion. I always preferred going alone, because then I didn’t have to discuss the film with anyone afterwards. I never thought it was going to be a profession. I started studying psychology in 1970. I was also involved in the student movement and political work and saw all that as being far more important than cinema. But somewhere deep inside I knew I really liked films more than anything else.

    When did you start to think about becoming a film critic as a profession?
    I had already started systematically reading about film. Not in a very usual way. I bought some film encyclopaedias and started to read them from A to Z [laughs] and I remembered most of the things I read, so I had this database in my head, not only about current cinema, but also its history. I still wasn’t very interested in film reviews. I mostly loathed them, because I hardly ever agreed with the film critic and hated them for the spoilers. But then in 1976, there was this television show, Voor een briefkaart op de eerste rang, that mostly consisted of a film quiz involving all these kinds of guys like me: shy and nerdy film buffs who would amaze the audience with their knowledge. And [after I appeared on the show], overnight I became this sort of phenomenon that people recognised as that strange guy with very long hair and a beard who knew everything about film. Around the same time, I had become a member of the Dutch Communist Party, who had their own daily newspaper, called De Waarheid—‘the truth’. They said, ‘Comrade, since you know so much about film, why don’t you become a volunteer film critic?’ Besides giving me a press card which got me into the cinema for free, they made one thing very clear: We may be communists, but we believe the worker is entitled to a good James Bond film every once in a while, so we don’t want all this arty-farty stuff. That was okay with me. So there I was: an overnight film critic. Unpaid but professional.

    Was there anyone early on who had a big impact on your career?
    I did like one film critic, Ellen Waller, who worked for NRC Handelsblad and was sort of the doyenne of film criticism. She was an older Jewish lady who had survived the concentration camps, and was very modern and open to the new. She also knew about history and had a wider education. You could describe her as the Dutch Pauline Kael—only a little less naughty. Anyway, she read everything, and she even read this small daily communist newspaper and started to notice what I wrote. So when an opening came up in the film section of the NRC, she invited me to come and talk to her. I was very flattered. I started reviewing for them, and a few years later, I became the editor. But it was a very difficult transition. It took a while before there was enough trust politically. After all, at the time NRC was really the big ‘business’ paper and hence the polar opposite of De Waarheid.

    So what kind of films best represent your own personal taste?
    Whenever I am asked about my all-time favourite films, I tend to refer to my balanced and reasoned list that’s online. But at gunpoint, I would mention Singin’ in the Rain [1952]. The reason is that the Hollywood musical is my favourite genre, the MGM musicals from the Arthur Freed Unit are the best film musicals ever made and this Gene Kelly movie is the best product from that unit. Moreover, it is a film about film and it was made in my year of birth. A more personal favourite would be La chambre verte [1978], because it is a film by my favourite director after Hitchcock, his admirer Francois Truffaut, and because it deals with the notion that the dead live on forever in cinema. My favourite Hitchcock film by the way is North by Northwest [1959]. And the most daring Dutch film ever made was De witte waan [1984], a rather obscure choice. It was directed by the genius Adriaan Ditvoorst, who committed suicide a few years later. Admittedly this selection is quite eclectic: a sing-along musical, an inquiry into death and a feasible form of eternal life, a very entertaining thriller about identity and a very very black comedy about a conceited junkie. But any canon should be eclectic.

    With the rise of citizen journalism, everybody’s a film critic now. Also there’s the continued blurring between editorial and advertising. How have things changed for film critics today?
    Since 1999, I’ve been giving a sort of master class on film criticism almost every year at the University of Groningen, training aspiring critics. There are a number of things I always stress. One of them is that you have to be convinced that your opinion matters because you have seen more films, have a better inside perspective and can discriminate. You also have to allow yourself to watch your emotions: if you never cry or laugh in a cinema, then you’re a bad critic, because a good review is always a reflection of what you experienced when you watched that film. The difference between a critic and non-professional reviewer or an internet reviewer, is that the critic enjoys a certain authority. Not only do you believe in yourself, the readers believe in you. You have to earn that authority with the readers. But you can also acquire negative authority. There have always been critics that I love to disagree with. I can almost trust that if this critic is positive about a film, I will be negative about it—or vice versa. Even if you love to disagree with them, they still have a form of authority. On the internet, what you see is that there are completely different reasons for being trusted, such as whether you are a likeable person, or whether you have an entertaining style of writing, which of course, always matters. The famous example is this American site, Ain’t It Cool from Harry Knowles, who is a very strange character, but he is so offbeat, so weird that that, in itself, is a reason to grant him authority.

    Is there any give-and-take relationship between film journalists and film-makers?
    None. In this master class I give, I get my students to watch four different films for which they write reviews. Then I tear apart what they wrote in the class. One of these films is always a Dutch-made documentary, and I always encourage the students to put themselves in the filmmaker’s shoes. Why is it made this way and not another way? They really start to identify with the film-maker, which is useful but also dangerous because you can completely misinterpret the film-maker’s intentions. Still, I think it’s important to try. Later, I ask them, ‘If you knew this film-maker personally would you have written it differently?’ And since some of them are quite cocky, they say, ‘Of course not!’ Then I say okay, so you don’t mind if this maker reads your review. And they say, ‘Why not?’ Then I say, ‘Okay, come on in.’ And then, the director comes in, carrying all these reviews he’s read, with lots of notes since I’d told him to be really quite frank and say what he thinks is bullshit. And of course all the students start to blush and shiver. I then tell them: you must remember this feeling for the rest of your life if you want to be a critic. Whatever you write, you must keep in mind that the person who made it may one day read it. So you have to be so sure of yourself and so honest that you can look him in the eyes and say, ‘This is what I stand for.’

    What’s your position on the negative review?
    You can be very harsh, but you should always do it in an honest and decent way. You shouldn’t be derogatory or negative for its own sake. Otherwise you can’t defend it. But I’ve done it. Every critic has done it—made fun of a film just because it is so easy to make fun of something you don’t approve of. But that always comes back to you. People remember that, and in the end you’ll be taken less seriously than if you do it in an open, decent way. What’s the function of a good review? A good review has two functions. One is consumer information. If I go to a cinema this weekend, which film should I pick? The other function is to look at a film from a broader perspective. Does this film matter? Will it still be watched fifty years from now? And you sometimes see a film that is completely consumer-unfriendly and not in the least entertaining. But somehow you sense that this film may change the world. So it’s your duty to note it.

    Aside from bad reviews, how else have you pissed people off?
    Oh, in many different ways [laughs]. The most famous times were probably with the Dutch films that won Oscars for best foreign film. That has happened three times, and two of the films, Antonia and Karakter, were really not good. I thought they were overwrought, bombastic and not very sincere. I wrote that when the films came out. I even wrote that Karakter is exactly the sort of film that wins best foreign film. And then when it did win, the director was interviewed by the New York Times and while talking about our film climate, he said the critics are so evil that one even wrote that it may win an Oscar, it’s so bad. Meanwhile, I wrote again that I still believed it wasn’t a good film. And that was perceived as really rubbing it in. [laughs]

    What is your opinion on the Dutch film climate?
    The Dutch have a very complicated relationship with film. They are the worst cinema-goers of all Europe. I think it’s now 1.4 visits per person a year, but traditionally it’s always been 1.0. I think only Portugal is lower. This may be because there has always been a tradition in the Netherlands of mistrust of the image. It can be related in a certain way to Calvinism. Iconoclasm. We don’t trust the carved image—these Catholics with their beautiful angels and Jesus on the cross. In the Calvinist church there’s only a cross, with no Jesus on it, because that’s too graphic. The word, the ‘Holy Word’, is what’s important. So that’s one reason, maybe. Another reason is that there’s a general suspicion of theatrics, of anything dramatic. When foreign colleagues ask about Dutch film, I always explain: when a couple breaks up here, they don’t start hitting each other, they go and visit each other and say, ‘Let’s talk about how this all came about.’ We have relatively few crimes of passion in the Netherlands. In fact, few radically dramatic events have happened here since World War II—and that’s why so many Dutch films have been made on that subject. But there are certain areas where Dutch film really stands out. Of course, the children’s films are very good, because we are a people of educators, just like the Scandinavians. Also animated films, because there, the whole realism debate has been solved. The Dutch always say film must be realistic. If it’s a fantasy or too far from reality, then it’s not to be trusted. But with animation, anything goes, so our animated films are quite good. And of course, the third area that really stands out is documentaries—the ‘real’. And then there are a number of filmmakers who have defied the ideas of education and realism. Paul Verhoeven is a very obvious example. He is so much against good taste and reality that he can only be a rebel Dutchman. [laughs] I believe that within Europe, the Netherlands, after the UK, is the closest country to America. You’ll very rarely find a Dutch person who admires the rest of Europe. This is in contrast with Belgium, where there’s a deep mistrust of anything Atlantic and a real openness towards the outer edges of this continent. I personally like a balance between the two: the combination of the soul searching of the Europeans with the entertainment value of the Americans.

    Are there any film-makers here seeking this ideal combination?
    I think Paul Verhoeven is a rare example of someone who has proven that he’s able to combine the two. A film like Starship Troopers is a masterpiece. Completely underrated. Because it is a very clever attempt to make a ‘shoot ’em up’ movie in the style of Leni Riefenstahl, the brilliant maker of Nazi propaganda films, and thereby implicitly equating the first Gulf War with white supremacy.

    Anybody else?
    Documentary-makers, of course. But in fiction film there was only a short wave in the 1980s, when there was a young strain, sort of almost burlesque film-making made by people outside the mainstream, who were, well, weird. Alex van Warmerdam has made some films in that vein. He’s really an outsider. Their sense of humour is related to certain 17th-century paintings, particularly Jan Steen. There was also Jos Stelling and Orlow Seunke. It was a very short list, and I believe they’ve all been influenced by Buster Keaton. The Dutch seem to have a special relationship with deadpan humour and taciturn, boyishly clumsy heroes. And most of the films of this ‘Dutch School’, as it was called, have very little dialogue.

    So, who rates as the ‘Dutch film mafia’?
    The Volkskrant comes up with an annual top 30 most influential people behind the scenes in Dutch cinema, and always in the top five there is the director of the Film Fund, and the government officials. The list also includes one or two producers; San Fu Maltha is an example. He’s half Chinese, half Jewish. A real Dutch producer! [laughs]. But you cannot pin down a real old boys’ network of people who divide subsidies among themselves. That isn’t the case. What is the case is there is a lot of envy, much more than in other art forms, or even in other cinema cultures in Europe, as far as I know, because there are too many film-makers, too many producers, and too few subsidies. So if you go to the Dutch film festival, you’ll observe the behaviour of rats in a small, overcrowded cage with too little food. They start biting each other, they start becoming very unpleasant to each other. And you can hardly blame them, because I know that for film-makers to make a living in the Netherlands is next to impossible. There are something like 500 professional directors who have each made one feature film and they all believe they are entitled to continue to do this for the rest of their lives with government support, and unfortunately that doesn’t happen.

    You travelled in Europe a lot last year. What did you notice about European film culture on a larger scale? Can we speak about a ‘European film culture’?
    Well, there was the ‘European art film’ but it’s out of fashion now. It did exist once. When I show my students an old Godard or nouvelle vague film, it’s too difficult for them. They just don’t understand that complicated grammar anymore, since film language is now all defined by Hollywood. If there’s talking now on film, the only way people understand it is if they take a close up of the person ‘over-my-shoulder’ and then cross-cut that. Only then is it believable, because that’s the Hollywood grammar. And nouvelle vague did something completely different. As Godard said, ‘A film has a beginning, a middle and an end, but not necessarily in that order.’ But that just doesn’t work anymore. It’s similar to the grammar of painting in the seventeenth century. That had a very complicated, refined set of rules, and the people who looked at these paintings understood every symbol and what it stood for. But today, we haven’t got the faintest idea what these symbols mean. It’s lost. The same goes for cinema of the 1960s and the Euro art film; young people look at it and haven’t got the faintest idea what it’s talking about. So you could say that the most complicated grammar of cinema was produced in the beginning of the second half of the 20th century. From there it went down again to something more simple and palatable.

    So the European art film has become a…
    Dinosaur.

    What’s taking its place, besides the Hollywood approach?
    The most vibrant European film culture right now is in Romania. They are looking for a national identity after 50 years of Communism, but they don’t have something as ready-made as Catholicism is for the Polish. They don’t know what it means to be Romanian. So then you start making films about your own life and your own history to define what it means to be Romanian. This often happens when a country is in transition and looking for an identity. In Iran, after the fundamentalists took over, the cinema suddenly became very vibrant, and not specifically religious but more generally about the search for an identity. We saw it in Poland during the Solidarity period. Also, a mild repression, without very severe censorship, can help a film culture. Since you can’t say everything you’d like to say, film-makers are forced to use metaphors. And cinemagoers love their metaphors!

    What’s your take on the Rotterdam Film Festival?
    It started as a very intimate event with one cinema only and one bar. You watched the film and then had a beer with Wim Wenders and Rainer Werner Fassbinder. It was really sort of avant-garde in the literal sense. A few people who were interested in these sorts of film got together with the few people who made them. Over time it evolved into a mass event. Now, there are so many films and so many different audiences that if you have a beer at the festival, it’s very hard to talk about the film you just saw because everyone has seen a different one. On the one hand, this is an amazing evolution. I believe it’s now the largest cultural event in the Netherlands—and for that sort of avant-garde cinema, that’s quite a rare feat. Of course, those of us from the old guard feel a bit lost.

    Here in Amsterdam there seem to be a million smaller film festivals popping up. Perhaps they fill that more avant-garde role?
    If you start a new event, most of the time there is one charismatic leader, who has the ideas, takes care of the guests, and is the image of the event. Often this person then leaves, retires, dies or disappears. Then you get the second generation, but with the power separated between a commercial director and an artistic director. Almost always the commercial director, who is in charge, is chosen for having the fewest enemies on the staff. And that does not make for an environment where courageous, or inspired, decisions are made. So the person who starts it makes it interesting and then it’s downhill from there…

    Hans Beerekamp holds a monthly reading/screening, Het Schimmenrijk, every last Sunday of the month (16.00-18.30) at the Filmmuseum where he eulogises directors, actors, choreographers, screenwriters and anyone else related to cinema who has recently died.

    Cover Photograph by Denis Koval

  • Cocaine is Watching You

    Cocaine is Watching You

    The documentary Dutch Cocaine Factory is a secret history in lines and layers captured on tape.

    By Steve Korver, 06-03-2008, Amsterdam Weekly

    ‘I call it a pro-paranoia,’ says film-maker Jeanette Groenendaal over a cup of tea in her first floor apartment at the bottom of Oudezijds Voorburgwal. And it’s certainly not paranoia but fact that her living room offers an excellent view on the long history of cocaine in Amsterdam.

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    ‘See the bridge?’ She points to the right. There are drug deals going on there all the time. But that’s always been normal for this neighbourhood. Even now, when the city is busy making a museum of this area and trying to control everything with hundreds of security cameras… Oh wait, and see that guy! In the smart suit? He’s a real big user. An artist.’ She laughs.

    ‘And see that building,’ she points left towards Zeedijk 16 on the corner of Kolksluis. ‘That was the home and office of the doctor Jose Alvarez, one of the first big importers of coca leaves during the late 19th century. There he had a laboratory where he made and sold all his medicines. Even the canal water itself tells a cocaine story. They use them to measure the changing rates of cocaine use by a test that identifies a special acid released in the urine.’

    Groenendaal premiered her ‘docutective’, Dutch Cocaine Factory, at the IDFA festival last November and its success now has it touring the country with a stop-off in Amsterdam on 8 March.

    ‘I was originally inspired to make the film by my rich friend Arend, who has been high on cocaine for forty years. He was just a guy enjoying the Dutch liberal drug policy—you know, the Herman Brood generation. Only difference is that Arend is still alive. But things change fast. Suddenly in this new society, where everything is controlled and checked, he became a suspect.’ Arend’s eventual arrest, which was documented by the 16 security cameras he had installed in his house, forms the compelling introduction to the film.

    While having all those cameras might be a sign of his paranoia, a friend thinks differently: ‘I wouldn’t call him paranoid. He’s more of an observer of society. And since he’s been high for so long, he has a very interesting philosophy on observing society.’

    ‘But when I went to his trial, I did get paranoid. There I saw all these transcripts of telephone conversations I had with him as a friend. Word for word. And meanwhile, I’m living in a district with hundreds of cameras. So I started to make connections and decided to do more research and take my camera with me.’

    And lucky for the viewer, Groenendaal’s research went beyond just talking with the quite scary-looking Arend, currently out of prison. She learns from criminal lawyer Leon van Kleef about the Netherlands being the most wire-tapped country in the world and the extent he has to go to guarantee a private conversation—his favoured technique is attending tango salons.

    Meanwhile, Ton Nabben, an anthropologist from the University of Amsterdam’s Bonger Institute, explains how in the late 19th Century, the Dutch discovered mines in Peru where the workers chewed coca leaves and were then able to work for hours with little food. So they brought these plants to Indonesia to grow on huge plantations. East India Trading Company ships then brought tons of these leaves to Amsterdam where they were processed at officially sanctioned cocaine factories.

    By the dawn of the 20th century, the Netherlands was the biggest producer of cocaine products in the world. ‘That is until,’ Groenendaal says, ‘the US got jealous of all this money the Dutch were making and introduced the Opium Law in 1936.’

    Groenendaal continues, ‘So there I was. My friend was in jail. And learning this history of Holland that nobody knows. Everybody thinks we got rich on cloves and coffee. Plus I was still wondering about all those security cameras around us. People thought I was crazy. But I saw both elements as being about control. Not only the control that addiction has on users, but the control the government employs on people who are seen as the criminals. And that leads to the question: who’s controlling the controllers?’

    And the connections continued… At the Tropical Museum after a long search, she found a picture of one of the local cocaine factories on Schinkelkade. Then later at the Erasmus University in Rotterdam, she found out that the Colonial Bank, the institution that backed the historical Dutch cocaine trade, paid for most of the building of the Tropenmuseum. ‘So you could say it was built with drug money,’ laughs Groenendaal.

    And how’s Arend? ‘Still complaining that the quality of the cocaine continues to get worse,’ laughs Groenendaal. ‘I’m now thinking that maybe the best idea is to make coca leaves a Fair Trade product.’

  • Fifteen Years of Jokes and Beers

    Fifteen Years of Jokes and Beers

    Improv comedy troupe Boom Chicago on how the cops and the suds have changed in our fine town.

    By Steve Korver, 17-04-2008, Amsterdam Weekly.

    A couple of weeks ago Amsterdam Weekly reached out to the Hells Angels for some advice about trademarks and brand-building. This week we’re reaching out to another club. A comedy club. One that is celebrating its 15th anniversary this month as a highly successful, English-language-fuelled business. ‘Boom Chicago paid a million euros in taxes last year,’ says executive producer Andrew Moskos as we drink beer in the sunshine on the theatre’s Leidseplein terrace. ‘So it’s safe to say we’re totally ingeburgerd.’

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    It’s a heartwarming story—especially since Boom Chicago was founded by Moskos on a stoned whim, back when he and a friend were passing through Amsterdam on a holiday and noticed a hole in the improvisational comedy market. Today, Boom Chicago fills its 300-seat Leidseplein Theater most nights with smartass shows that incorporate suggestions from the audience. It’s a formula that Moskos learned back home in Chicago, Illinois, where he was inspired by Second City and trained at Improv Olympic.

    ‘We just started peddling these two basic things: beers and laughs,’ says Moskos. ‘And we were lucky that there was always an audience for the shows we wanted to do. We never had to go through any heavy inner battles about art versus commerce.’

    ‘Thank god for that,’ chimes in Rob AndristPlourde, a 12-year veteran Boom actor and improv teacher, who has joined us at the table.

    Okay, beer is obviously always a good basis for a strong business model. But were they able to apply the laughs to the model as well? ‘Well, in a way,’ says AndristPlourde. ‘The basics of improv are to always remain positive and respond with a “Yes, and…” to whatever gets thrown your way, even if every fibre of your being is screaming Noooooooooo! And on a business level I think we’ve tried every idea that’s come along.’

    ‘But just as on stage, some business ideas work better than others,’ deadpans Moskos.

    Meanwhile these two Boomers also busied themselves with saying ‘Yes, and…’ to Dutch society at large. While they began as purveyors of ‘cheese, pot and pussy jokes’, as AndristPlourde describes it, they have long escaped the tourist/expat ghetto, both personally and professionally.

    ‘Sure, we’re still welcoming to tourists, but our shows are now aimed at the Dutch,’ says Moskos. ‘It wasn’t a conscious decision. We learned the language, started reading the papers, had Dutch children and became part of the culture,’ Moskos goes on. ‘And now we’re the ones complaining about all the fucking tourists. Just call it natural evolution.’

    Over the last five years, Boom’s audiences have also shifted slightly, going from half Dutch to two-thirds. That may have to do with the popularity of the TV show De Lama’s, which has brought improvisational comedy to the Lowland masses. ‘Although they are obviously influenced by us, we don’t feel ripped off at all,’ says Moskos of the show. ‘You could say we introduced the grammar, but we ripped that off from elsewhere as well.’ Indeed, good comedy is like folk music: it belongs to the world.

    During a decade and a half of taking the piss out of Amsterdam, these two Boomers have watched the city change. ‘I’ve seen two big shifts,’ says Moskos. ‘In beer and in police. Fifteen years ago, the beer price ratio was one to two: the cheapest place might sell a beer for 1.75 guilders while in the most expensive place it went for 3.50. (I should say that I’m not including bars featuring naked women in this observation.) But now that ratio is one to three. A whole new level of quality establishments has been laid over the top. And that’s been at the expense of the city’s underground. And let’s be careful with that: you don’t want to become Switzerland.’

    ‘Meanwhile the cops have gotten more petty,’ continues Moskos. ‘Before, it was about mature policing that focussed on the lessening of troubles. Remember those parties where the cops warned about bad ecstasy going around? Now they spend their time busting kids at Sensation parties for smoking joints and people on the street for jaywalking.’

    AndristPlourde professionally cuts the situation to its essence: ‘I totally agree. The counterculture is dead and the police have become the stereotyped pigs.’

    ‘I sometimes miss that Amsterdam,’ continues AndristPlourde. ‘I remember years ago seeing two men walking down the street arm in arm and going “Wow what a great city”. Okay, it turned out to be a cop and a guy in handcuffs, but my sentiment was real.’

    ‘Yes, and maybe they were just bondage sweeties,’ says Moskos, spinning it positive.

    ‘Actually, I knew we had really become part of the city when I got married a few years ago in the Filmmuseum,’ recalls Moskos. ‘My brother-in-law is a cop and was all smart in his uniform. Before the main event, he went for a walk in the park and was stopped by two undercover cops to check if he was for real. These cops were pretending to be tourists and part of their disguise was our tourist magazine stuffed into their back pockets.’

    So Boom Chicago’s future in the marketplace seems secure. But what can save Amsterdam from becoming Switzerland? More cheap beer perhaps?

    Both Boomers respond simultaneously: ‘We’d “Yes, and…” that!’

  • Live to be 100

    Live to be 100

    According to octogenarian poet, writer and inspired wild child Simon Vinkenoog, the trick is to keep breathing.

    By Steve Korver, 15-05-2008, Amsterdam Weekly

    So how does one live a long, healthy and balanced life?

    ‘Just feel good. That’s the secret,’ answers the poet, writer and inspired child Simon Vinkenoog over coffee and joints on a Monday morning at his garden house in Amsterdam Noord.

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    ‘Oh, and try breathing.’ We both inhale, then exhale. I feel better already.

    Turning 80 on 18 July, Vinkenoog starts celebrating this week at the Bimhuis by declaiming his poetry backed by a jazz band. Around the official birthday itself, there will be events organised at OBA public library and much will be published: Vinkenoog’s collected poems, a scrapbook of his memorabilia, his 1951-57 correspondence with the recently deceased writer Hugo Claus and a new collaboration with the musician Spinvis. Yes, the man is still busy. And he even finds time to rate as Amsterdam Weekly’s oldest contributor.

    Vinkenoog has lived—and continues to do so. He’s the psychonaut who made it. Born in Amsterdam, he barely survived World War II. During the ‘hunger winter’, he ended up contracting a skin disease which had him covered with a rash, and then scabs. ‘But then a new skin broke through. Maybe that’s why my skin still looks so young,’ he jokes as he rubs his wrinkles.

    After the war, he moved to Paris and befriended CoBrA painters like Karel Appel and Corneille, and writers like Hugo Claus and Remco Campert. He started publishing poems, magazines and novels before returning to Amsterdam in 1956. ‘I had become a world citizen and would therefore always be a strange duck here in Holland.’

    And it only got stranger when he became an LSD test subject at the Wilhelmina Gasthuis hospital in 1959. His previous main literary theme of ‘hate’ became ‘love’. ‘Before then, I was always busy with hate,’ he says. ‘I had handicaps, insecurities, depressions—of course, I can still burst out in tears if I see something horrible on TV but I’m no longer always busy with it. One person’s nightmare is another’s fairy tale…’

    By the 1960s, he had evolved into a full blown shamanic hippie performance poet. And like his friend, the late American poet Allen Ginsberg, he moved with the times. In 1979, he was the ‘priest’ who ‘married’ rocker Herman Brood to the off-her-rocker Nina Hagen. He was also named the ‘poet of the fatherland’ and managed to get married six times.

    But now he’s been married to his constant companion Edith for over 20 years. ‘Partnership is happiness. It’s about balance, like summer and winter,’ says Vinkenoog. And indeed, the couple still come across as a pair of crazy kids in love.

    ‘The garden is our child,’ says Edith. ‘And on 13 April 2004, we had a second child. That was the day we discovered the internet.’ They laugh.

    Once motivated, Vinkenoog just can’t stop giving advice on how to live—or maybe he’s just generating another poem. ‘Enjoy! Be entertained by the social games you play! Look 360 degrees around you! Learn! Then unlearn! Yoga’s good: it brightens up every cell! There are no endings, just etceteras! Always be in a process! Stay curious! Smell the mutation in the air! Be a generalist, not a specialist! Enter new houses! Stay surprised! Be in wonder! Everything is allowed! Don’t kill time, make time! Keep your own street clean! Regard every pain as a growing pain! Stay flexible! Read Walt Whitman—he’s the opa of hip! Trust life!…’ Vinkenoog pauses.

    ‘Actually trust is good but it’s also good to stay a bit suspicious, since it’s just getting more and more about the survival of the fittest out there,’ says Vinkenoog as he motions towards the outside world beyond their self-made Eden.

    Vinkenoog takes me on a tour of the garden, one in which even gnomes would have trouble getting around, but not Vinkenoog. He shows me his latest project: reclaiming a path through the rose bushes to the second cabin where he keeps his books. The emerging path has a sign: ‘Terra Incognito: Fun in progress.’

    So is hyperactivity the secret to a long and healthy life? ‘Well I’ve always danced like a fool! Sure, maybe it’s just about exhibitionism or narcissism but, nonetheless, at least you’re stretching!’

    ‘When you mentioned that you wanted to talk about healthy-living, I dug up a few books,’ says Vinkenoog when we return to the table. These few books form a metre-high pile, but the one he really wants to show me is called Live to be 100 by a certain S Sage. He points out something he’s underlined: ‘Maintain a consistently optimistic, positive and constructive mental attitude’.

    ‘Really it’s just about getting away from conditioning and all that Victorian moral nonsense,’ says Vinkenoog. ‘That whole Christian-Judaic idea of “one god” is the most dangerous of things. Our neighbour over there describes it best: “God is a garden”.’

    While Vinkenoog takes a moment to admire God, I notice he had been reading last Saturday’s Volkskrant magazine. Under the headline for an interview with cabaretier Mike Bodde about his long and crippling depression, Vinkenoog had scrawled in large letters: ‘Learn to live with the chaos, young man!’

    Learn to live with the chaos. I think I can do that. But first I’m going to sit here for just a while longer.

  • Rutu Modan and Ben Katchor, comic book artists

    Rutu Modan and Ben Katchor, comic book artists

    Interviews with two prominent graphic novelists: Ben Katchor on being a New Yorker in New York and Rutu Modan on the burgeoning art of Israeli comics.

    By Steve Korver, 05-06-2008, cover feature, Amsterdam Weekly
    The Ben Katchor interview also appeared in Ben Katchor: Conversations (University Press of Mississippi, 2019)

     
    AmsterdamWeekly_Issue22_6Ju

    Ever wonder what happens to those crumbs that collect at the bottom of your toaster? And then, if collected by specialists in the field, what the different sizes of these crumbs could be used for? The cartoonist Ben Katchor (1951) has pondered about such a scenario and even wrote a comic strip about it.  

    Katchor creates deeply weird worlds: ‘I’ve done a lot of writing in bed between waking and sleep. I like stories that slip in and out of conscious logic.’ If you’ve read his ‘Julius Knipl, Real Estate Photographer’ or ‘The Cardboard Valise’ series of comic strips, that appear in weeklies across North America, you’ll certainly never be able to look at New York City as a non-surreal place again. And the beautiful thing is that he wins prizes for thinking very differently—including the ‘genius grant’ of the MacArthur Foundation Fellowship. He even writes ‘comic book operas’, including one called The Slug Bearers of Kayrol Island, that deals with the chemical emissions and addictive soft drinks of an apocalyptic tropical factory-island.

    Katchor’s  perhaps most ambitious work, The Jew of New York, was originally published ten years ago (its Dutch translation is being released this week). It was inspired by the real-life New York politician and amateur theatre writer Mordecai Noah who, in 1825, decided that all the lost tribes of Israel should gather on an island near Buffalo to form a Jewish state. He was not successful—unlike The Jew of New York, which is poetic, layered and deeply wacky. The book introduces us to a whole bevy of characters—an actress worshipping wild man who pays tribute to the mighty beaver before ending up stuffed in a museum, a man who wants to carbonate Lake Erie, to name just two—all of whom are united by a drive to find themselves a place in the New World. Welcome to New York as the wild, wild East.

    What got you into comics?
    I discovered comic books in my neighbourhood corner candy store. In these comic books, I discovered the Western tradition of representational art. I was amazed to see how space and figures could be description in a small three- or four-inch comic-strip panel.

    How’d you make comics a career?
    I drew and wrote comic strips for many fanzines as a child, but it did not become a career until I started a weekly comic-strip, ‘Julius Knipl, Real Estate Photographer’, in the late 1980s for a weekly newspaper in New York City.

    Any key influences?
    I saw that Jules Feiffer and Edward Gorey were able to use the picture-story form to tell more sophisticated stories than those I encountered in comic books. By the age of sixteen, or so, I outgrew comic books and looked elsewhere for aesthetic pleasure. The artists that most influenced me were not comic-strip artists. The visual artists were Poussin, Rembrandt and many other European painters. The literary artists were Nabokov and Saul Bellow.

    You have an obvious passion for architectural detail and decor. You even do a strip for the architectural magazine Metropolis. City boy?
    I’ve always lived in a city, with short breaks during the summer, and so most of my thoughts revolve around architecture. Like a scientist, I want to understand urban life on a microscopic level and so these details are simply obvious premises for stories.

    What were the sparks that inspired The Jew of New York?
    I wanted to research the origins of the market economy in New York City, circa 1830. Also, I wanted to think about what it meant to be a Jew in NYC at that time. Mordecai Noah was a footnote in many histories of Jews in America and I was interested in using his failed plan to establish a Jewish state in North America as the starting point for a new story.

    How difficult is it to stretch from the single ‘strip’ format to producing a whole ‘graphic novel’?
    Most of my books are accumulations of weekly strips. The Jew of New York is the only novel-length strip I’ve produced. I’m more interested in short form comic strips. The graphic novel appeals to book publishers who don’t know how to sell and package short form works—short stories, poems, etc. Most of my work has its real life in magazines and newspapers.  

    While your illustrations exhibit mind-blowing technique, on first glance they can come across as, um, ‘messy’…
    I try to cultivate the sketch aesthetic—the immediate realisation of a graphic idea through direct drawing in ink. That technique may strike you as messy, but it’s an honest result of the process I go through in inventing a drawing.

    Your plots and story-telling have a dream-like quality.
    I’ve done a lot of writing in bed between waking and sleep. I like stories that slip in and out of conscious logic.

    On an average day, how many ideas come into your head? How many actually turn into strips and how do you know which ones to discard?
    There’s no average day—some days many ideas, some days none. In some cases, it’s not clear how to make an idea into a strip and so I come back to it several years later and find a solution. No ideas are discarded, just put aside until the right approach occurs to me.

    I’m also interviewing Rutu Modan. Your work could not be more different yet both of you are part of the Jewish Historical Museum’s Jewish comics art exhibition. But is there any link beyond the universal one: that anyone’s work is a product of their heritage and identity?
    I can only identify with the history of leftist, atheist and internationalist Jewish culture, and that only as history. The only cultural identity I have is being a New Yorker.

    It’s often said that Jewish artists have been a major force in the birth of the graphic novel as a movement. Do you have any explanation for that?
    My favourite cartoonists are not of Jewish descent. The particular Jews who were involved in the birth of the comic book business circa 1939 wanted to buy into an American pulp fiction aesthetic. Most Jews at that time were not involved in the comic book business and so you can’t blame Jews for the invention of superhero comics.

    What are you working on now?
    I’m working on a new music-theatre production and assembling a collection of strips from ‘The Cardboard Valise’ series.

    Music theatre?
    The three composers who run Bang on a Can (a NYC new-music collective) were commissioned to write an opera by the director of a music festival in Turin, Italy who is a comic-strip fan. He asked for an opera based on a comic-strip. They, in turn, asked me to write the libretto and design the scenic projection. I love operetta, or music-theatre, and a few years later I approached the pop musician Mark Mulcahy to set a new story of mine to music—that was The Slug Bearers of Kayrol Island. Working in theatre is highly collaborative and that’s a big change from working alone on comic-strips.

    rutumodan

    You could say that Rutu Modan is the mother of modern Israeli comics. Born in 1966 in Tel Aviv, she’s an award-winning comics artist who has drawn and written strips for many major newspapers, both in Israel and abroad. She was also the co-editor of the Israeli version of MAD magazine and she currently teaches comics drawing and illustration at the Bezalel Academy in Jerusalem. Modan’s also busy with a comics story that will be published weekly over 20 weeks in the New York Times Magazine from mid-June. It’s called ‘The Murderer of the Terminal Patient’ and is a comic murder mystery set in an Israeli hospital. The Dutch translation of her latest, and already universally acclaimed, work, Exit Wounds, has just been published as Vermist. The graphic novel tells a deep and subtly rendered story set in contemporary Tel Aviv, where a young taxi chauffeur, Eddie, is approached by a young woman soldier, Numi, who believes his estranged father—her boyfriend—could have been killed in a suicide bombing. As they search for the fate of the father, they discover each other. Modan talks to us about this book and her life in comics.

    What got you into comics?
    There were hardly any comics in Israel when I was growing up. I think Israel is the only country where Superman and Tintin were commercial failures. But my parents lived a few years in America in the early 1960s, and my mother came back with a big collection of cartoon pocket-books. My mother was a scientist, not an artist, but she liked these books and I believe this collection was one of the reasons I became a cartoonist. As a child I read them again and again until they fell apart; there’s only a few survivors left in my library. At the time, I had no idea about comics as an art form or that it could actually be a profession. But at the same time, I’ve been inventing stories and drawing them since I was three. For me, it is the most natural way to express myself. It was only in my twenties, at the Art Academy, that my illustration professor introduced me to contemporary comics, especially alternative comics, and I immediately decided this is what I wanted to do with my life.

    And how did you make that a career?
    When I started getting interested in comics, a very lucky thing happened. A friend’s ex-boyfriend was appointed editor-in-chief of a new weekly magazine. And since I was looking for a student job, my friend suggested I show him a few samples. He was new at the job and had never read comics, but he still thought having a comic strip in his agazine would be something very unique and hip. So I started publishing weekly strips and had complete freedom. Especially since nobody understood anything about comics, and mainstream comics were considered as weird as alternative ones anyway, so I just did whatever I wanted. I used very macabre and vulgar humour, and changed the format whenever I got bored. Two years later, when I graduated, I already had a name as a comics artist, and for eight years I did strips for different newspapers. Meanwhile, I wanted to develop and make more complicated and longer comics stories, like those I read in Raw magazine. I collaborated with Etgar Keret, a well known Israeli author, and for a few years we worked together on comics based on his stories. In 1996 we published a collection [Nobody Said It Was Going To Be Fun] that was even quite successful in Israel. In the same year I established, along with four other comics artists, an independent comics publishing house, Actus Tragicus, and together we published our comics in English and distributed them in America and Europe. Eventually, Chris Oliveros from Drawn & Quarterly saw my stories and commissioned a book: Exit Wounds is the result.

    Any key influences?
    This is easier to answer when you are twenty than when you are forty. There are so many artists I was and am influenced by, and in so many ways! My first comics teacher, Michel Kishka, was an immigrant from Belgium, so initially my education was more European in style: Herge, Lorenzzo Mattoti, Loustal and the ‘French school’. But since I read only English, I was only influenced by their style of drawing. For writing (as well as visual), Raw magazine and its artists was a major influence: Linda Barry, Art Spiegelman, Charles Burns, Edward Gorey (I copied him for years), Seth, Chris, Daniel Clowes, Julie Doucet, the Crumb couple, Mark Beyer—and many more. Currently I’m into the American cartoonists of the beginning to middle of the twentieth century: Winsor Macay, Gluias Williams, McManus, Webster. And lately, I started getting interested in alternative manga, like Maruo and Taniguchi.

    Key non-comics influences?
    My favourite activity is reading. And I am equally influenced by literature as by comics. The Italian author Natalia Ginzburg is one of my favourites—with her subtle, undramatic tone she reaches the highest degree of emotion. Hitchcock taught me a lot about creating suspense and drama. Film noir and Italian realism showed me how to turn everyday reality into drama and people into heroes. I am also influenced by art exhibitions, popular psychology, blogs, people, landscapes, other arts, the news and personal disasters—however stupid or sad. As I say to my students: everything is material.

    It’s hard to reconcile the author of Exit Wounds as a former co-editor of MAD magazine…
    In 1994 an Israeli publisher decided to publish an Israeli edition of MAD. In that period, the American MAD was past its prime and they started selling rights to foreign countries. The format was supposed to be seventy-five per cent translated American materials and twenty five per cent original local materials. I did the job together with Yirmi Pinkus, my classmate and a comic artist himself. We did it for cheap but it was rather fun since we did not have to use up-to-date material, and could order lots of great material from the 1950s and 1960s from the MAD archive. And we learned a lot because we had to do everything ourselves: editing, printing, production, marketing, and even translating. Since we liked alternative comics, we used that for the original material—from ourselves and other Israeli comics artists. The American publisher wasn’t interested in what we were doing. We only had to send the cover to be approved. We did have one cover, with Alfred E Neuman as a punk, censored. The American publisher thought he looked too much like a skinhead and insisted it would hurt the Jewish readers’ feelings. It was impossible to explain to them that there are no Nazis in Israel. Apart from that, we did what we wanted. The problem was, people who liked MAD hated the Israeli stories, and fans of alternative comics hated the American parts. So nobody bought the magazine and after fourteen issues another attempt to publish comics in Israeli had failed. But at least this episode led directly in 1996 to the founding of Actus Tragicus.

    What was the inspiration behind Exit Wounds?
    It came from a wonderful documentary called No.17 by director David Ofek. It was about a terror attack in a bus, where one body was so destroyed that it couldn’t be identified. Well, unfortunately, that happens a lot with bomb attacks. But what was less ordinary is the fact that no one claimed the body. It was a body of somebody nobody missed. The director tried to find the identity by publishing an ad in the newspaper. One man showed up—he had not seen his son for a long period—but in the end it turned out that it wasn’t him. Another trigger happened years ago, when I was waiting for a telephone call from a guy I was dating. After four miserable days, I came to a conclusion that he must be dead or else he would have called me. (But then I called him and he wasn’t.) That gave me the idea: someone is missing and there is a girl who believes he might have died, because she just can’t believe that he left her.

    What other elements of autobiography are in Exit Wounds?
    Everything I write is based on, or influenced by, reality. Where else can you get inspiration? Even the weekly funny strips I did were based on life. For example, while I was pregnant and terrified by the idea of motherhood, I read an article about a new birth method: giving birth in a dolphins’ pool. So I wrote a strip about giving birth among sharks, where you can choose whether you take the baby home or leave him in the pool. In Exit Wounds, many scenes and characters are stolen from my life. But I changed them to fit the story. Fiction is different than life, because in life there is no order or meaning, while a story must have both. Art is really about giving meaning to that chaos we call reality. Although I have not myself experienced a terror attack, a few years ago it was happening a lot around me, and it did affect my everyday life and feelings. But sudden, brutal deaths are actually around all of us, anywhere, anytime—not just in Israel. I tried to describe this idea in Exit Wounds, and not just the dramatic side of death, but also the matter-of-factness and worldly side of it. For example, the guys coming from the flea market to clear out a dead person’s house. That happened with me after my father’s death. It took them twenty minutes—so professional!

    How difficult is it to stretch from the single ‘strip’ format to producing a whole ‘graphic novel’?
    Writing and drawing a one-hundred-seventy page story is a completely different experience than creating a short comics story. Short stories are based more on an idea and a punch line. A novel is based more on the processes your characters go through. You find yourself involved in deep relationships with people you invented, which gets very weird sometimes. I read somewhere that writing a story is like trying to put an octopus to bed. When you tuck two arms under the blanket, two other arms pop out on the other side. When you write a short story and change one detail it creates a hole in the story somewhere else and you have to solve it. Writing a novel is the same but then with a giant octopus.

    Exit Wounds, while obviously set in Israel and presenting a vivid picture of its society, can on many levels be set anywhere since it’s indeed more about your characters’ processes and not the surrounding politics…
    I think the main subjects in Exit Wounds is love—both father love and romantic love—and death. And these two vectors are connected in that love is supposed to be a connection and death the ultimate separation. But in reality it is more complicated than that: love and death sometimes change roles. Sometimes love drifts us apart because we feel too vulnerable, and sometimes the death of someone we know makes us feel more connected to them or to other people. It is the basic conflict between our desire to be in touch with other people and our desire or capacity to think only about ourselves. The suicide bombing is the plot, or background to the story, and not the subject—not the centre of ‘real life’. This is sometimes difficult for people from the outside to understand. The bombing also gives Exit Wounds some kind of naturalistic texture, but I tried to avoid sensationalism and even the clichés about Israel. I wanted to make the point that the lives of most people in Israel are more based on their small everyday details than around politics. And I believe this also to be true for politicians. And I wanted to show a bigger truth as I see it: if we were not so focussed on ourselves, perhaps the situation would get better. I also wanted to look deep beyond labels like ‘father’, ‘son’, ‘soldier’ and ‘widower’, and seek the human being behind it. And when you go there you can no longer see things in black and white, you cannot hate anyone, and therefore you won’t want to hurt or destroy them. This is very different than looking from a political point of view where even a nice woman like me can turn into a monster. (I can get very unpleasant, verbally anyway, in a political argument.)

    What has been the reaction in Israel?
    Exit Wounds has not yet been published in Israel since it was originally commissioned in English by Drawn & Quarterly, and it took me some time to work on the Israeli version since in Hebrew you read from right to left. So I had to flip all the drawings, which usually isn’t a problem, but the main protagonist is a taxi driver and when the drawings are flipped, he ends up driving in the wrong side of the road. And since this is supposed to be a realistic story, I figured this would be irritating for the Israeli reader. Unfortunately there are one-hundred-fifty frames where he drives his damn taxi, so I had to draw many frames again. It was boring but I did it and the book will be published in Israel in the fall. But I also suspect there is another reason I wasn’t in a hurry for the Hebrew edition: I think I am a little frightened from the reaction there. People can be more touchy and critical when it is something about them or about things they know about…

    It’s often said that Jewish artists have been a major force in the birth of the graphic novel as a movement. Do you have any explanation for that?
    This is very funny that you ask this because whenever there is an article in an Israeli magazine about comics, the first question is always: ‘Why are there no comics in Israel?’ And the most common answer is that Jews are good with words but not with the visual—that the whole Jewish culture is limited when it comes to the visual. Of course, this is nonsense. But really, I don’t know why there are so many Jewish artists in the comic scene in North America and so little in Israel…

  • Return to Sarajevo

    Return to Sarajevo

    Four years after my first visit to Sarajevo, a Dutch-funded project to connect survivors of the Balkans wars by video launches in the former war-torn capital. Some things have changed, some not so much…

    By Steve Korver,  14-04-2005,  cover feature, Amsterdam Weekly

    The first time I was in Sarajevo, four years ago, a man I came to call The Professor treated me to a roller coaster ride through Bosnia’s worst hit areas. He deemed the optimum volume of his car radio as “when the doors started shaking”. This was so that everyone in the vicinity could share the tunes he chose to play. In Croat neighbourhoods the doors shook with Serb partisan songs, while in Muslim sections they shook with the Croat hit parade.

    A Serb who had stayed in Sarajevo in the name of a united Bosnia, he had dodged Serb snipers for three years during the siege, only to lose his teaching position to a Muslim once the war was over. So basically he was pissed off at everyone. His DJing style was certainly an efficient way to get frequently pulled over by the local police. So was his driving style, which consisted of jerking erratically between 40 and 100 kph, while screaming stories about ‘bastards, fascists’ and the general assbackwardness of these parts.

    landscape-srpska

    ‘The Bosnian people failed by falling for self-serving politicians… See that veterinarian hospital? Once they identified a dead animal as a radiation-swollen rat, then as some sort of tiny variety of the dinosaur family, until someone finally recognised it as a skinned fox… The UN failed the most. They couldn’t even teach the local police how to button their shirts or tighten their belts…’ But by then I had come to respect these scruffy law officers for their ability to sense a madman coming straight for them at 40 or 100 kph.

    If The Professor was anything to go by, things were still by no means normal in Bosnia, five years after the signing of the Dayton agreement that formally ended (excessive) violence in Bosnia.

    This past visit also rated as my second date with my lady friend, herself an (ex-)Yugo. Our ensuing courtship is documented by a series of snapshots showing us in front of bombed-out buildings, crippled bridges, and scenic views overlooking Srebrenica, where around 8,000 Muslim men and boys were massacred in the worst single slaughter since World War II.

    An inadvertent photo album of love among ruins. We weren’t sick, sick ramptoeristen (“disaster tourists”), though, but victims of circumstance. Her work as a researcher involved interviewing both war criminals and victims. I was just often along as a bit of arm candy.

    Return to Sarajevo
    Our respective roles had only evolved somewhat when we returned to Sarajevo last week to attend the premiere of a remarkable series of documentaries, Videoletters, by Amsterdam film-making couple Katarina Rejger and Eric van den Broek, who won the Special Prix Europa, International Journalism Prize, and the Human Rights Prize for their 2002 documentary The Making of the Revolution, which covered the last days of the Milosevic regime.

    Each episode of Videoletters involves an exchange of letters on video between two friends, colleagues, family members or neighbours from different ethnic groups who lost contact during the war. Most exchanges offer apologies along the likes of ‘I can blame MiloÅ¡evic for his politics, but I can’t blame Milocevic for me not answering your letter.’ Many express regrets, too. ‘Now, everything that happened seems bizarre, laughable, senseless.’ Often the two became reconciled and met up later too. Even now, doing so can be dangerous, since many of them still live in communities where ‘consorting with the enemy’ is still regarded as a crime.

    We journeyed down to Sarajevo to celebrate the completion of this 5-year project with around 40 associates, sponsors, friends, journalists, and Dutch civil servants. We even had musical accompaniment in the shape of by Blijburg house band Hotel.

    hotel-band

    I figured I’d help out by explaining to any fellow travellers who wanted to know that the local swearing traditions don’t centre on diseases, as in Holland, but on the private parts of one’s mother. I could also assist with the pronunciation of such essentials as cevapcici and pivo. I was even willing to hold master classes with my handy colour chart that explains the Balkans’ two basic food groups: rakija and mixed grill.

    karremans-snor

    But I also had selfish motives: I wanted to collect stories about Amsterdammers abroad being peckerheads. I already had plenty with me as the star; but my lady friend, who had hand-held many visiting Dutch academics in her time, had told me a lot of juicy ones that made me suspect there must be even more. My favourite was the one about the posh history professor visiting Srebrenica. ‘Where can I find a good gym?’ he asked. The town did not even have running water.

    seebuyfly-with-media

    But this time it was a fairly sensitive bunch travelling to Sarajevo. In fact, the whole trip was very tightly organised. I counted a dizzying array of four different food groups at most meals. And I was also happy to discover that Sarajevo had come a long way in the last four years. Out of the media spotlight and relatively pumped with reconstruction funds, Sarajevo had become a town again that now even non- disaster tourists could love.

    woman-with-pussywillows

    But almost the first thing we encountered after leaving the airport was a Technicolor image of that (in)famously smug sense that the Dutch have of themselves that they can fix anything (This is the same presumption that got them into a whole shitload of trouble in Srebrenica. But let’s not speak of collective guilt here…) It turned out that the Netherlands had sponsored the painting of refurbished apartments in the city — but in really garish colours. This in the name of ‘brightening things up’. The residents were less than appreciative.

    ‘Great. Now we’ll be the first targets when the war starts again.’

    dutchpaintjob1

    Cutting to the chase
    A friend of mine once referred to Marshall Tito as ‘one funky dude’, a phrase suggesting a relatively benevolent dictator who just happened to love uniforms — and the ladies.

    There are probably many reasons for the Balkans wars of the 1990s, but one thing is for sure: Tito managed to die just as he would have had to deal with the economic downslide that came with the fall of the Wall. Before then, the ruler of Yugoslavia had been savvy enough to keep the country out of the Eastern Bloc by playing the USSR and the USA off each other and collecting money from both sides. Yes, funky.

    ‘Under Tito, we were all Yugoslav,’ observes one of the people in the Videoletters. Dictator or not, he did set up and rule a genuinely multiculti country with a healthy, well-educated and well-travelled urban population.

    club-slovenia

    At his death, microphone politicians sought to fill the void by appealing to rural populations and blaming the other. Milocevic got the ball rolling in Serbia. But Tudjman in Croatia, and Karadzic for the Serbs and Izetbegovic for the Muslims in Bosnia, were all quick to apply similar tactics. It is, unfortunately, a familiar story. (An Amsterdam dinner party with ex-Yugos these days is incomplete without the observation: ‘Isn’t it incredible how Geert Wilders looks exactly like a young pig-faced Milosevic?’)

    It was only when the war actually started that things get really confusing. The media — regional, national and international — got involved. Other countries, mostly from the EU, got involved to protect their many vested interests. It was just next door after all, and bizness is bizness. The worst point was probably when Madison Avenue PR companies began representing individual ethnic groups. The Internet was exploited to spread myths. Truth had become fluid; and it wasn’t tasty, like rakija.

    sarajevo-library

     

    By the war’s end in 1995, atrocities had been committed by all sides on such a scale that any finger pointing became irrelevant. Hundreds of thousands were dead and millions had been displaced. (In Amsterdam, the ex-Yugo population is now around 6,000, just a few hundred less than the Indonesians.) The true victims of the war were, as usual, the people who just wanted to get on with their lives without bullshit.

    speak-bosnian

    Today the former republics of Yugoslavia are independent states: Serbia & Montenegro, Croatia, Slovenia, Macedonia, Bosnia-Herzegovina. Only Kosovo is still being disputed. And while now there’s plenty of cross-border bizness relationships, the same can’t be said for personal ones. That’s where Videoletters comes in…

    Videoletters: the project
    Film-maker Van den Broek explained the initial inspiration. ‘We met Samir, a Muslim living in Sarajevo, who was depressed from the war at having to dodge snipers all the time,’ he said. ‘He was also depressed about not having heard from his best friend, who happened to be a Serb. He was so desperate that he decided to commit suicide. He went up onto his roof to wait for a sniper to kill him. Nothing happened for an hour so he finally gave up. But it turned out that Samir himself had never tried getting in touch with his friend either. This was the seed of the idea.’

    videoletters-restaurant

    Five years later, he and his partner Rejger, whose roots lie in the region, has produced a cathartic 20-part series. It produces tears in the eyes of everyone who sees, it, non-ex-Yugos included. But the project’s real success came last summer, when representatives from all the former republics’ public broadcasting stations — all of them once enthusiastic broadcasters of propaganda — came together in Amsterdam to hash out a deal by which the episodes would be simulcast by all the stations. A booze cruise and a dinner at Panama helped grease the wheels of history. This would be the first time since the war that all ex-Yugoslavs would watch the same show at the same time. And on 7 April this year, the first weekly episode was aired.

    A few months later, again in Amsterdam, during the screening of several episodes during IDFA, all the ambassadors from former ex-Yugo countries were left crying and speechless. Yes: politicians rendered speechless. A very positive sign indeed.

    A representative of  the Dutch Department of Foreign Affairs  was also on hand to present a cheque to help take the project to the next level: telephone help lines for traumatized viewers, a website with search engine where people could make contact again, counters all over former Yugoslavia where people can make their own video letters (at no charge), and even buses equipped with computers and webcams that travel to the more isolated spots.

    Sarajevo/Amsterdam
    As a symbol of the Bosnian war, Sarajevo was the perfect setting for the official premier. And in many ways, the city has much in common with Amsterdam. OK, Pim Fortuyn  will never compete with Franz Ferdinand, whose assassination triggered World War I. But both cities are cosmopolitan despite their small size, painfully scenic, artily inclined and mellow. There’s even a shared humour based on dark understatement.

    sniper-alley-today

    As a major crossroads and trading centre, Sarajevo is also very welcoming to visitors. Before the war it rated as the most multicultural city in the region. ‘Forget “Venice of the North”,’ I heard a newly converted fan in the group exclaim. ‘We should start calling Amsterdam “Sarajevo of the North”.’ And certainly these days it’s much easier to recognize it as a cool city again. Every exchange with a local feels like you’ve made a new friend. I only encountered one cabdriver (I remember many more from the last time) who started muttering about ‘what they did to us…’

    But I had also grown. I no longer asked who ‘them’ and ‘us’ were.

    But it’s still easy to equate Sarajevo with war. The valley is smeared with white patches that mark the clustering of graves. UN troops are still everywhere, keeping the peace and acting as regular customers for the overpriced restaurant sector. Damaged buildings and damaged people are still everywhere too. A car with Serbian license plates will still likely get its windshield smashed. But one attending Dutch baby boomer was quick to observe: ‘A car with German plates in Amsterdam will still get pushed into the canal on Queen’s Day, and that war ended 60 years ago. Reconciliation usually takes generations.’

    seebuyfly-with-car

    In Sarajevo, the war hovers over every conversation. As a visitor, you are of course neurotic about coming across as a lucky bastard. The boyfriend of a friend I made last time surprisingly expressed certain nostalgia for the war. ‘People smile less. My friends are working harder, staying home more and watching more TV.’

    ‘It’s only gonna get worse once you join the EU,’ I replied. ‘Or maybe you and your friends are just getting older and more boring. I know I am.’

    He laughed and agreed. So maybe universal processes can still happen when there isn’t a war.

    videoletters-on-road-to-srp

    It’s easy to get too optimistic. However it’s a feeling that’s quickly cured once you drive by a ‘Welcome to the Srpska Republic’ sign. The Serbian section of Bosnia is still more of poverty-stricken livewire with a population still very much under the thrall of one of the world’s most wanted war criminals, the one-stringed-lute-plucking freak Karadzic. Reconstruction funds aren’t exactly raining there. The region remains seriously damaged. But there’s still a celebratory mood at Cafe Dayton, where several of the series’ reunifications occur, that not even the obvious security presence can douse.

    Van den Broek sees the irony. ‘Now the police are helping us,’ he says. ‘Before, when we got stopped, we’d have to negotiate a price and discuss what exactly we as drivers with foreign licence plates were doing wrong.’

    seebuyfly-with-fence

    When we returned to Sarajevo, I had the opportunity to enter an iconic building that was once the oldest library of Oriental books. It was torched during the siege, though; some two million irreplaceable books were burned. But I saw its renovation and recent function as unique setting for plays and exhibitions as a positive sign.

    sarajevo-library-exterior

    Later, I tried to impart this optimism to a NOVA cameraman who also happened to come from Sarajevo. ‘I don’t give a shit about that building,’ he said. ‘I give a shit about those two million books that will never be read again.’

    Right. It’s sometimes easy to forget. We returned to our ongoing argument about which is the grimiest bar in Amsterdam.

    During a luncheon in a beautiful riverside restaurant — complete with tree growing through the building — I was curious to see what the Dutch ambassador to Bosnia and a high-ranking civil servant from  Foreign Affairs  would say. But neither had a clue about microphone technique, and so we all heard nothing. This gave me another rush of idealism, oddly enough — for the future of Dutch politics, anyway. No one could accuse these gentlemen of being microphone politicians.

    But the real story was occurring away from the podium. The different protagonists from the series were meeting each other, recognizing that they were part of a larger group and one that may very well grow exponentially. Normal people ready to embrace a truly post-war future with their pre-war friends.

    It reminded me of what my lady friend’s 93-year-old great uncle once said to us. ‘If there were more stupid people than smart ones, then the world would have ended a long time ago.’ Here was a man who’d managed to witness a wide spectrum of 20th-century disaster and still stay an idealist.

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  • A Fellow Citizen in Space

    A Fellow Citizen in Space

    Amsterdammers seem apathetic that one of their own is charting a course to another ‘Magical Centre of the Universe’.

    By Steve Korver, 28-04-2004, Amsterdam Weekly

     
    We should all be proud. The first Amsterdammer in Space, Andre Kuipers, will be splashing – hopefully not splatting – down this week on Queen’s Day after 11 days of high flying on the International Space Station.

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    But locals seem fairly blasé about it all. And in many ways it is all a tad ho-hum. It’s not as if he’s Yuri Gagarin, the first man in space, or some such iconic God. Hell, he’s not even Wubbo Ockels, the first Netherlander in Space. And Lord knows it’s easy to be overshadowed by two such heavy-duty dudes.

    But one would think there would be more of a fuss with such an Amster-story about life, the universe and everything. In fact, it would seem that this is the perfect opportunity to pump some life back into the city’s sagging reputation as “magical centre of the universe”. So why the apparent apathy?

    Maybe Amsterdammers spend too much time getting spaced out in the coffeeshops and the idea of real space has become passé for them. Or maybe they are just feigning indifference, so Rotterdammers don’t get jealous and start to cry “Conspiracy!” and claim that it’s all a big fake, like the moon landing, and that Kuipers is just another hammy actor. (And admittedly, with his baldhead and ample girth, Kuipers does come across as a rather jolly interstellar Kojak.)

    Or maybe it’s a national phenomenon and derives from the fact that outer space just does not have a lot of resonance here in this tiny land where the stronger urge has been towards the cosy  gezelligheid of innerspace. After all, this is a country that produced Antoni van Leeuwenhoek, the inventor of the microscope who actually went so far as to breed flies on his thighs for his sick micro-kicks. And Amsterdam’s own Jan Swammerdam laid the foundation for that microscopic discipline of study of all that is buggery but is now called Entomology.

    With such tendencies, it’s only natural that minimism has developed in this country to the point of mass psychosis – the most disturbing symptom of course being the building of Madurodam, ‘the world’s largest miniature village’. But as singular as all these achievements are, they are equally strong as cases for actually starting to think bigger. And hence, a cosmonaut from the lowlands would seem like the perfect antidote for this madness for the microscopic. Sadly, Kuipers himself seems to suffer from this love for the small to point of the delusional: he described being tin canned for two days on the capsule carrying him to the space station as “just going camping with two friends in a small tent” – um yeah, a small tent that also doubles as a toilet.

    Humans generally like their heroes with an edge, but Kuipers comes across as just another nuchter Netherlander. Case in point: while Russian cosmonauts famously smuggle hip flasks of vodka with them to the space station, Kuipers announced to the international press that his little bit of contraband would be some belegen cheese. I’m sorry but even for a space idealist like myself, this action comes across as way too – excuse me – cheesy. If he wanted be a patriot, the least he could have done was lie and say he was bringing up some jenever with him. But what would be really bolshoi embarrassing is if he goes completely overboard with his stereotypical Dutchness and is busted on his departure from the space station trying to steal the towels.

    Which brings us to the next point: the accusations of him being too much of a “space tourist”. This sentiment was best expressed in a editorial cartoon in the NRC Handelsblad headlined “Doubts of the Scientific Usefulness of Kuipers’ Voyage” and featuring an Einstein-type stating: “we are particularly interested in the effects of weightlessness on fat bald fortysomethings with a midlife crisis”.

    But people should rise above being so blatantly jaded. In fact, Kuipers has worked hard on dozens of vital experiments. Interestingly – since it follows nicely with the Dutch fascination for the small and cosy – much of this work deals with the effect of gravity on tiny things. For instance, he brought 3 million Caenorhabditis Elegans worms (one wonders: on his thighs?) for tests that will answer many questions on the long-term effects of both weightlessness and cosmic radiation that will be fundamental for the quest of humans to reach Mars in the short term. And we all want to get to Mars don’t we? And just think of the children: many of who will be inspired by Kuipers to become nerds – and this planet certainly needs all the nerds it can get.

    So come on people: fight against all this cynicism. Kuipers’ achievements should be regarded as a cosmic event that can act to unify this city. Perhaps now Amsterdammers will stop swinging between left and right and finally choose to go in the only direction that matters: up, up and away towards an interstellar future where both the liberal and the conservative, the living and the dead, the fat and the bald, all just hang mellow in the ultimately loungey atmosphere of zero gravity.

    Wouldn’t it be great if Kuipers entered politics? Or – considering the auspicious timing of his return to gravity’s embrace on Queen’s Day – maybe we should just make him Queen. I, for one, will be selling some really special T-shirts this Queen’s Day: Kuipers voor Koningin!

  • Under the Influence of Cassavetes

    Under the Influence of Cassavetes

    What would life be like living in a John Cassavetes film? Well there’s one advantage: you’d almost always have a strong drink in your hand. But alas, there’s a catch: you will eventually get drunk. Stupid drunk. In fact, chances are that you are an unsympathetic middle-aged alcoholic simmering with raw emotion but forever incapable of expressing it. And that’s always a bummer.

    By Steve Korver, 26-05-2004, Amsterdam Weekly

    Life would seem fragmentary, unpolished and often overlong (if not downright boring). There would be few easy answers and plenty of open endings. Many things will be in close-up – especially when you are moaning after being punched, bleeding from getting pricked or experiencing loneliness like a kick in a place where it hurts the most. The dubious lighting will either have you glowing in over-exposure or disappearing into a shadow. The equally shitty sound quality would only have one advantage: background noise may sometimes cover up the fact that you are continuing to talk even though you have nothing to say.

    Perhaps the worst of it all occurs off screen: an edgy and intense guy – wild eye-browed Cassavetes himself – is forever pointing a handheld camera in your face patiently goading you to be tragic in the most realistic way possible. Happily, there is occasional payback: sometimes it will all come together for a celluloid moment perfect in its believability.

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    John Cassavetes has become the icon of the “director’s director”, the poster boy of independent cinema, and is perhaps the most under- and over-rated names in film history. While Cassavetes’ stauncher disciples – Jim Jarmusch, Lars van Trier, Wong Kar Wai, John Sayles, Harmony Korine, Sean Penn, Steve Buscemi, PT Anderson and of course Cassavetes’ son Nick Cassavetes to name but a few – are forever namedropping him as a formative influence in interviews, they often neglect to mention other contrasting influences that taught them how to also appreciate the value of editing and humour in maintaining an audience’s attention.

    But Cassavetes remains a touchstone for all that is fiercely honest and grittily real – or “vérité” for you more continental, nouvelle vague, types. The prestigious Independent Spirit Awards even includes a special John Cassavetes Award for the best feature made every year for under $500 000.

    Emotions and relationships, rather than plot and momentum, were the fundaments for his films. He always chose truth over the perfectly framed shot. Of course, for contemporary viewers this “truth” may sometimes come across as a tad hammy but understandable since he and his regular stable of actors were the first generation to be directly inspired by the yet hammier likes of Dean and Brando.

    Given the choice, it would probably be much better to live John Cassavetes’ life (1920-89) than to live in his movies. Certainly, your life would more resemble the Hollywood stories you were rebelling against in your films. You’d bare an uncanny resemblance to Bogey. Your life would follow a near perfect story arc: beginning as a 1950s TV actor playing badboy rebel parts, you’d end up becoming a badboy rebel auteur. You’d be writing and directing for such mind-blowingly talented actors like your beautiful wife Gena Rowlands and your witty buddies Peter Falk, Ben Gazarra and Seymour Cassel, and working with a big happy extended family who are equally committed as you in making films that reflect real life.

    And of course, you can always return to suck on the teat of the Hollywood system whenever your “independence” needed some extra financing. (Indeed: just like the role he played as Mia Farrow’s husband in Rosemary’s Baby, Cassavetes had to regularly sell his soul to the devil for personal success…)

    But Cassavetes was also ultimately Hollywood in the way he built his own myth. While his directorial debut Shadows (1960) transcended all cliches by telling a story of inter-racial love by focusing on the human problems and not the racial ones, the film’s many off-screen stories are almost all blockbuster material. For instance, Cassavetes always enjoyed telling the story of how he got the initial funding. During a radio interview when he was supposed have been promoting a commercial film he had just starred in, he boasted he could make a much better film “about people” if listeners would just each send in a dollar or two. By the next day, he had $2 500.

    Cassavetes also claimed that he’d developed his realistic shaky camera style because he couldn’t afford a tripod. He also lied outright by adding a title card that claimed that the film was completely improvised. While the story did evolve from improvisations from a workshop for unemployed actors he was running, it was in fact, like all his films, tightly scripted. In fact, he reshot 80 per cent  of the movie after screening an initial version to lacklustre audience response (though later he would become famous for saying that he would reshoot a film if the initial reactions were too positive…).

    Certainly the off-screen story has the ultimate happy Hollywood ending: Martin Scorcese rates Shadows, along with Citizen Kane and Along the Waterfront, as one of the three best films ever made – and not merely because it is mercifully shorter and funnier when compared to his later films but because of the stellar performances he coaxed out of his characters. And the films that followed – or at least the ones he made outside the studio system – cemented his mythical status as an uncompromising, maverick maker of personal films.

    John Cassavetes died at 59 from cirrhosis of the liver. Perhaps real life is like a Cassavetes movie after all…

  • AmsterSlang: What can we learn?

    AmsterSlang: What can we learn?

    Amsterdammers are from Mars, Utrechters from Venus.

    By Steve Korver, 20-10-2004, Amsterdam Weekly

    I am not a student at the University of Amsterdam. I am a student of Amsterdam. So I don’t usually have a lot of time for “wisdom”. I’m just after a certain street savvy.

    So at first I wasn’t quite sure what to make of Amsterdamse Wijsheden compiled by Hans Vermaak and illustrated with “vele prachtige illustraties” by Bert Witte. It’s a small book. It’s nice, new and blue. It’s also nice and cheap – for less than €5 at your better local bookshop – and therefore the perfect small gift idea. It’s also part of the series so once you have sucked back the wisdom of this city through its historical sayings and aphorisms you can move on to absorb the nuggets from other such worlds as Zen, Money, Farmers and Brabant.

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    But soon after I clutched it with my greedy little monkey paws, I was entertained. I even felt as if I was learning something. But mostly, it just spoke my language: Beter een buik van ’t suipe as een bult van hard werke (“Better a belly from the beer than a bump from hard work”). And indeed, while it may be worth translating this book wholly into English, such a project may quickly prove to be too much hard work. How would I ever find the right words to translate something like: Het doet ‘m niks, al hange de meiers an se kont? I would need a book of equal size for the footnotes alone.

    But I was quick to recognize that there was plenty of quality stuff I could use to annoy my Dutch friends. I figured it would fun to start speaking using only Amsterdam clichés that have been badly translated into English. “Hey sorry goser for being such a lazy dry armpit for not helping you move house the other day, but I woke up with a bad case of Heineken sickness.” Ah yes: the international language of obnoxiousness – a sweet lingo indeed…

    But it’s really too easy to be a smartass. Like it says in another of the books collected insights: In de gracht pisse is geen kunst. Probeer de overkant ‘ te hale ( “There’s no art in pissing into a canal. Try reaching the other side.”)

    And really, the long arc involved in translating this book may very well be worth it. For one tiny tome, it does a remarkable job of reflecting some ingrained characteristics of the typical Amsterdammer. Even the quickest of perusals of its 200-odd sayings reinforced several valuable lessons taught to me long ago.

    Lesson #1: Amsterdammers are Snobs
    The saying, “Over het IJ en onder Diemen wone enkel boere” essentially says that outside Amsterdam there are only farmers. Yep, we Amsterdammers are the only civilized folks in these parts. This reminded me of the time when a hardcore Amsterdammer friend explained to me when I first moved here that in Amsterdam it is fact worse to call someone a boer, a farmer, than a boerenlul, a farmer’s dick. Figure that one out…

    Another saying that reflects a certain disdain for the outsider translates literally as “I figure that guy is from Utrecht” but in fact means – according to the ever handy glossary in the back of the book – that you are assuming that this guy is gay. For some reason I thought that was really funny. Now don’t take get me wrong. I am not some batty Buju Banton type. Some of my best friends are from Utrecht, and yet others are “from Utrecht”. (Though I do feel somewhat un-PC for not having a friend who is a combination of both. Perhaps it’s time to join Friendster afterall…)

    Lesson #2: Amsterdammers are Ever-Relativizing Pragmatists
    Yep it’s a cliché that Amsterdammers are down-to-earth straightalkers who are forever ready to compromise as long as business gets done. And this book certainly pumps this image with many examples along the lines of “a big ass needs big pants”, “roasted doves don’t fly” and “never leave a pretty lady alone because the fastfuckers will soon be waiting in the hall”.

    Lesson #3: Amsterdammers are Softie Romantics. Not.
    As one leafs through this book, one gets the impression that the courtship rituals in this city have indeed been somewhat tainted by pragmatism. Surely there must be a more charming way of asking someone to dance than Zal ik je lijf effe door de saal sleuren? (“Shall I drag your body about the room?”). And I truly question if the pick-up line, auspiciously found on page 69, Sal ik je gang ’s witte? (“Shall I whiten your hall?) has actually ever worked on anyone. If I wasn’t so pragmatic, I’d be shocked.

    Lesson #4: Amsterdammers are Born Surrealists
    There’s certainly nothing like a juicy image for an aphorism to be permanently burnt into one’s mind’s eye. I’d certainly shut up if someone yelled Krijg een wielklem om je kake! (“Put a wheel clamp on your jaw!”). I’d certainly be speechless if I entered a FEBO and was asked Motte je een kattekroket of een hondehap? (“Do you want deepfried cat product or a bite of dog?”). Actually I’d be doubly speechless since I in fact do always have a problem choosing between a nasischijf and bamibal. Both are after all so lovely when served with a pungent French mustard.

    But anyway, it’s these more visually oriented examples that will prove the most challenging when it comes to translating them into an English that could be understood by all. A literal approach will not get all the nuance of, for example, Die kaneelduiker is so stom as ’t paard van kristus (Literally: “That cinnamon diver is as dumb as Christ’s horse”); Is se uit de poppekast gevalle of bij ’t visbakke uite de pan gespronge? (Literally: “Did she fall out of a dollhouse or jump out of the fish basket?”); or Je ken een ei in se reet gaarkoke (“You can boil an egg in his ass”).

    But I should not be scared of attaining the ability of hard boiling eggs in my butt. I should rise to the challenges of this noble task: there are wise lessons in this book that should be heard by all and not just Amsterdammers. I began leafing through the book once again in search of some pithy saying extolling the virtues of a work ethic since I knew that, at least in the past, Amsterdam was famous for having one. I hoped it would inspire me to new and more proactive heights. And indeed bingo: Je komt er wel as je het glas laat staan en je jongeheer laat hange (“You’ll get there if you leave the glass alone and keep your young man hanging”).

    These were excellent words to the wise. Too many glasses of alcohol can indeed be a danger to one’s productivity. But who is this “young man”?

    Is it possible that he’s from Utrecht?

  • We can all agree on Bruce Lee

    We can all agree on Bruce Lee

    The Cinemasia Festival opens with a mockumentary that goes in search of the new Bruce Lee — while sending up Hollywood stereotyping in the process.

    By Steve Korver, 27-03-2008, Amsterdam Weekly

    In 2005, a life-size bronze statue of Chinese-American martial arts star Bruce Lee was unveiled in the Bosnian city of Mostar. It was meant to unify a city fractured by the wars in former Yugoslavia. One of the organisers stated: ‘We will always be Muslims, Serbs or Croats. But one thing we all have in common is Bruce Lee.’

    So true. Lee could pop a 100-kilo opponent back almost five metres with a one-inch punch, and he could throw grains of rice in the air and catch them with chopsticks while in mid-flip. Bruce Lee was the most influential martial artist of the 20th century. In the early ’70s, his starring roles in films like Fist of Fury, Way of the Dragon and Enter the Dragon made him a cultural icon. His status only increased when he died under mysterious circumstances in 1973 at age 32, leaving just 12 minutes of footage behind for what would have been his last film, Game of Death.

    This year’s CinemAsia film festival, along with some 70 other Asian-rooted films never before shown in the Netherlands, is screening as its opening film the Hollywood production Finishing the Game: The Search for a New Bruce Lee. This ‘mockumentary’ by director Justin Lin (Better Luck Tomorrow, Fast and Furious: Tokyo Drift) begins in the aftermath of Lee’s death, when the studio is scrambling to find a suitable substitute so they can finish Game of Death. In fact, the studio did exactly that: Robert Clouse, the director of Enter the Dragon, ‘finished’ the film in 1978 with the use of body doubles and a new script and cast.

    But Finishing the Game is not that story. Instead, it’s a Spinal Tap-style ‘behind-the-scenes’ parody of Hollywood’s first flirtation with martial arts films. It follows a series of Lee-wannabes as they go through the casting process. There’s Breeze Loo, a minor kung fu star who denies being a Lee-rip off: ‘That cat was always wearing a yellow jumpsuit. I wear a blue one.’ There’s a slightly cross-eyed Indian doctor who dreams of being a martial arts legend. There’s Tarrick Tyler, who rants about his exploitation as a ‘yellow man’ but is actually very, very Caucasian. And then there’s Troy Poon, a vacuum cleaner salesman who has a lot of experience playing ‘Chinese food delivery boys’ and had a brief moment of fame as a TV cop with the catchphrase: ‘I ain’t gonna do your laundry.’

    Yes, it’s all quite corny. But the excellent, albeit over-the-top, art direction does suggest that the film was actually made right after Lee’s death, and the film also does a great job of capturing the B-movie business and its unorthodox casting process. Plus, the parodies of 1970s TV shows and chop-socky films — Fists of Führer, for example — are hilarious.

    The lampooning of Asian stereotypes in Hollywood is probably the film’s strongest point, and one that echoes parts of Lee’s own life. Lee was the one who came up with a TV show in which a Shaolin monk would wander the Wild West. But the studio cast not him but white actor David Carradine in Kung Fu, claiming that audiences were not ready for a Chinese leading man. And that can be regarded as a universal shame. Who would you want to be: Carradine or Lee?

  • East Side Story: the socialist musical

    East Side Story: the socialist musical

    Welcome to the Dream Factorski! (Cruising Down the River on a Sputnik Afternoon…)

    By Steve Korver, 22-05-2008, Amsterdam Weekly

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    Once upon a time in the East, there was a Bloc-buster of a film genre—one that the unrestrained could call the ‘The Red Commie Musical’. These films came packed with tunes, drama, dance, romance, sheer wackiness and—most endearing for the modern Western viewer—a solidly alien conception. Who knew musicals could help sell the idea of a worker’s paradise?

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    In 1997, when directors Dana Ranga and Andrew Horn came out with their excellent documentary on the history of the genre, East Side Story, Eastern Bloc musicals seemed ripe for rediscovery. But they haven’t yet managed to seep into the universal camp unconscious. So it’s a happy thing that Filmhuis Cavia, as part of their 25th anniversary activities, is screening both the documentary and one of its best cases in point: the 1968 East German beach party musical Heisser Sommer!

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    As the narrator of East Side Story points out: ‘Jean-Luc Godard once said the history of film was the history of boys photographing girls. But Stalin had another fantasy—boys photographing tractors.’ His favourite genre was the socialist (sur)realist musical: endless fields of choreographed farm equipment, a roaring river of yodelling Rasputin look-alikes, a ‘Doris Day of the East’ chirpily strutting her cheekboned stuff in the name of higher production yields.

    It all began in the early 1930s, when a film-maker named Grigori Alexandrov returned freshly stuffed with shtick after a few years in Hollywood, where he was Eisenstein’s assistant director and Charlie Chaplin’s drinking buddy. Under the guise of being a ‘crazy guy’—always the safest position to play—Alexandrov made The Jolly Fellows (1934), a comedy of errors going straight for the chuckle jugular where a Crimean shepherd gets mistaken for a famous musician. The film was promptly banned until bigwig writer Maxim Gorky managed to get Stalin in for a gander. He enigmatically responded with, ‘Anyone who dares to make a movie as humorous as this must be a brave man.’ And eventually Stalin helped clear the way for the making of the 1938 classic Volga, Volga—a flick which apparently had the dictator in stitches for over 100 viewings. In his enthusiasm, Stalin went so far as to award Alexandrov with a military medal (for bravery?). And hey, if it lightened the mind of a mass murderer, imagine what this giggle-ride could do for you.

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    While a few more snappily titled but more propaganda-prone classics—Tractor Drivers (1939), The Swineherd and the Shepherd (1941)—were filmed, the death of Stalin (and his reputation) essentially meant the death of the Soviet Musical.

    But after the war, the gilded pitchfork was picked up by the new satellite states. Many of their media products for the proletariat helped to surreptitiously define glamour in lands where the concept didn’t even officially exist. Sure, these surreal-fests came somewhat crippled with ideology, but one can say the same for their Western counterparts. For example, while the celluloid Gene Kelly, with his jones for romance, embodied the American Dream, the real Kelly nearly got his dancing ass blacklisted during the McCarthy era.

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    Hungary came up with Twice Two Sometimes Makes Five (1954), a love story between stunt pilots that, with its endless charade of parades, uniforms and fighting songs, eerily foreshadowed the Red Army invasion of 1956. Czechoslovakia took better advantage of its Prague Spring by putting the comic muse back into musicals. The ingeniously shot Woman on the Rails (1966), about a woman tram driver who loses it when she sees her man kissing another woman, deliriously walks the tightrope between intentionally and unintentionally hilarious. Your eyes will drool with delight as colour-coordinated housewives lean out of their colour-coordinated apartment building to exchange songs with their colourcoordinated husbands, who are below on the street washing their colour-coordinated Skodas.

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    But probably the juiciest—and most Technicolor—musicals came from East Germany. ‘Happy’ Hans Hendrick certainly did his best to brighten the working stiff’s day with My Wife Wants to Sing (1958) which exploited a former Miss Bavaria, not only to deal with vaguely feminist themes, but to hype the consumption of all the luxury goods that would appear once the country had dealt with that pesky problem of reaching production quotas. Naturally, it was banned. Not until its audio soundtrack recording became a hit did the state film studio DEFA back down and release it. This led DEFA to start producing more musicals in the hopes of winning back their audience, who were now, annoyingly, swarming to West Berlin for their capitalist-tainted fix.

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    This resulted in Midnight Revue (1962), a truly zingy vortex of pure entertainment and blatant absurdity that was shot for the funny bone of the masses while the Berlin Wall was being constructed right through the director’s backyard. And if that’s not absurd enough, the plot of four creatives being kidnapped and bullied into making a musical is in fact a direct mirror of what was actually occurring—a film being produced under the mantle of the same state that had the power to censor it. As the refrain goes: ‘It’s simpler to go iceskating in the desert/ Than to make a successful musical.’

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    DEFA hit the jackpot with Heisser Sommer! (‘Hot Summer!’), the film that precedes the screening of East Side Story at the Cavia. It sold a stunning two million tickets, despite, or because of, its Hollywood plagiarisms, teenybopper cast and generally familiar beach blanket bongo-isms. These days, though, it holds no more sway than, say, Viva Las Vegas (although Elvis musicals did not have to stop shooting whenever the local hospital needed extra wattage). By the time the even more inane No Cheating, Darling (1972) came out, the genre could be considered officially dead, due in no small part to the emerging propaganda power, not to mention the couch convenience of television.

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    Still, if you have the inclination to dance to the lost dreams of socialism—and these dreams are, my comrades, not so very different from yours or mine—do take time to embrace these near-forgotten artefacts. (If nothing else, they’re a nice palate-cleanser for the Eurovision Song Contest taking place in Belgrade the next day—for which Filmhuis Cavia is also having a party.) And, the sweet thing is that when viewed today, these gems generally require no ironic disposition, just a willingness to surrender your ears and eyes, strap on those worker-built gossamer wings, and fly.

    Thanks to Andrew Eddy for making these .giffs dance.

  • Hotel Lloyd: a beautiful chaos

    Hotel Lloyd: a beautiful chaos

    A building that was once a claustrophobic hell-hole has been re-invented as hotel and ‘cultural embassy’ brimming over with Dutch design.

    By Steve Korver, 17-11-2004, cover feature, Amsterdam Weekly

    While I’m a fan of the Disneyland of modern Dutch architecture along the Oostelijke Handelskade and further east along the IJ, I have to admit that I also find the overall effect a bit clinical, and a smidgeon anal. Or maybe I just miss the coolest cultural squat on the planet, Vrieshuis Amerika, which was traumatically torn out this area in 1998.

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    Certainly this most constructed of ‘hoods could do with some more nature — or at least some more of the ‘natural’. The Vrieshuis, with its inflatable flowers on the fifth floor, its Wild West roller disco on the second floor and its clutch of caravan dwellers on the ground floor, was a truly hip artists’ paradise that grew organically from the chaos. It was natural. What this new neighbourhood needs is more chaos — both of the cultural and biological kind. Nature would then start occurring, um, more naturally.

    The ‘Dutch Model’ of design has been hyped around the globe — or at least in Japan and Scandinavia — for being both pragmatic and futuristic, and for its easygoing attitude to the boundaries between building, urban, and landscape planning. Still, to my mind it often misses the mark by regarding nature as an artificial construct that must be nurtured. Sure, Holland has the ultimate excuse: everything is fake here anyway. (‘No land, you say? Slap gelul! Hell, we’ll just reclaim some from a soggy marsh!’)

    Of course, the real can be faked. But faking the real still takes time. Nature, complex mistress of chaos that she is, is really too multi-dimensional to fake in the short term. The Amsterdamse Bos may have acquired an authentic forest vibe, but it only achieved this after many decades of wild growth.

    Some beehives have been installed on that stack of oversized tables towering above where the IJ-tram is due to run, but these won’t be enough to bring nature to eastern docklands. The area is desperate for that certain something that can’t be arranged even by the most cutting-edge urban planning on the planet. Maybe the area needs a farm, or a subsidiary of Artis Zoo. Perhaps inburgering a few more non-human fellow creatures will bring more balance to the humans who live and/or party there.

    Humanising a hell-hole
    Then again, the other side of the equation also needs attention. To this end the Lloyd Hotel, once a karmic hell-hole, is being turned into a happening hotel. And it’s a good sign that MVRDV, the architects who gave the world Pig City 2001, a skyscraper for pig breeding, and Atelier van Lieshout, the artist/designer responsible for Pioneer Set, a mobile farm, are involved in the hotel’s re-invention. With such influences, there’s a good chance that the area’s also a step closer to humanisation.

    I ask Suzanne Oxenaar, one of the project’s jump-starters and the person responsible for the hotel’s unique Cultural Embassy (more later), what the chances were that the hotel’s backyard might become another Pioneer Set complete with blissed-out hogs. ‘I certainly wouldn’t discount the possibility,’ she says, her eyes twinkling. ‘In fact, Joep [Van Lieshout] has already suggested it.’

    I say bring on the manure. It may be just what this over-shiny ‘hood needs.

    When they began transforming the Lloyd, there was still a lot of bad voodoo in the hotel’s history to transcend. Built in 1921, it began as a European emigrants’ hotel, and could accommodate up to 900 guests at a time — usually Eastern Europeans on route to becoming South Americans. They would be checked in at the ontsmettingsgebouw (‘decontamination building’) across the street, where now the excellent cafe/gallery Cantine is located. There, guests would be given a righteous hosing down before going, via an underground tunnel, to the hotel proper.

    ‘The concept of what a “guest” is has changed many time in this building,’ says Oxenaar. Obviously this is an understatement.

    Later during the Occupation, the Germans re-zoned Lloyds as a jail, where people arrested during the February Strike were kept. After the war it retained this function, to ‘host’ collaborators and members of the NSB. But the Lloyd’s history was probably at its darkest between 1964 and 1989, when it served as Amsterdam’s premier youth prison. (The ‘New Lloyd’ in Amsterdam-Zuidoost has now taken over this function.) The old Lloyd began its healing process when it became a living/working space for artists in the early 1990s, which lasted until 2001.

    The ‘old’ Lloyd isn’t just another ‘design hotel’, or an attempt to copy the success of New York’s Chelsea Hotel or even of Rotterdam’s Hotel New York (though the latter does share the Lloyd’s immigration-related past and designer present). The birth of the new Lloyd Hotel was in fact — yes, indeed — an organic, complex and slow process that has involved many movers and shakers. (Some of them will be mentioned below, but many won’t: there are a lot of them.)

    Transforming the place from a youth prison into a hotel and ‘cultural embassy’ has, in fact, taken over eight years. It began with Oxenaar and a certain Otto Nan, both of whom have impeccable underground culture credentials. Oxenaar was a co-founder of the Supperclub (then a true vortex of artistic interaction, unlike the commercial operation it is today) and an organiser of international art exhibits. She has taken responsibility for the hotel’s Cultural Embassy and acts as the hotel’s most enthusiastic propagandist. Nan, the hotel’s general director studied art history and then made a name organising events and shows, including the Wild West roller disco and ‘cultureel pretpark‘ in Vrieshuis Amerika. He describes himself as a ‘financial autodidact’. (Cool business card!)

    In 1996 Oxenaar and Nan took part in a city-sponsored competition for the development of the hotel, which was then a rotting hulk of a bad-vibed building and — to their own surprise — won. But the banks they approached were wimp-asses, and it took the duo a while to find the money needed for the redevelopment. Eventually Woonstichting de Key agreed to fund it, and is now the official owner.

    ‘It was never the idea to turn it into a hip hotel or a hip restaurant, like Supperclub.’ Oxenaar says. ‘We were interested in creating space and freedom — to create a space where people could do what they wanted. Only then did we think that it should be a hotel.’

    As an organiser of international art exhibitions, Oxenaar has observed the internationalisation of the global arts scene and the ‘eternal emigration’, as she calls it, of its participants.

    ‘This new concept had to be even looser than the Supperclub, which was restricted by the hour when food began being served,’ she says. ‘That’s why everything is open 24/7 here. No deadlines. And once we embraced the idea of a hotel, we also realized that existing hotels don’t take advantage of guests with something to share. Hotels are generally just too formal for that.’

    This is why they’re leaving as much space as possible in the rooms for work, she says. This includes empty walls, bathrooms that fold away out of view, and extra furnishings left in the hall that guests can take to use as they need them. There will also be a kitchen where guests can cook. ‘So they can be “hosts” to their own guests,’ says Oxenaar.

    Cooking with Culture
    The Cultural Embassy, which reflects the spirit of the new Lloyd concept, is located on four open balconies hanging above the 24-hour Snel restaurant. (The other, a non-24-hour, dinner restaurant, is posher and called Sloom. Both, local foodies might be interested to know, are in the very capable hands of Liesbeth Mijnlieff, a co-owner of Cafe-Restaurant Amsterdam.) These spaces are already buckling under the weight of donations: a whole library of art books from the Rietveld Academy, and some nice and bulky Berlage- and Bazel- era furniture from the Instituut voor Sociaal Geschiedenis that harkens back to the era when the Lloyd was originally built. Guests can wheel a selection of books to their room on a trolley especially designed by the artist Suchan Kinoshita. They can also make their own donations — whether it is a painting or a book.

    While most hotels can point you to the canal cruises, few are hip enough to point you towards new artistic Muses. As a new Uitbureau point, Lloyds can arrange tickets 24/7 to any event which a guest may have discovered on the advice of a Lloyd employee (or, um, from the latest issue of Amsterdam Weekly). Guests can also get advice on how to make the best use of their time. Oxenaar recalls how staff helped a Shanghai gallery owner to find her way around the local arts scene. On another occasion, a convention of mystery writers ended up reading ghost stories to each other. She also recalls the unique bonding that occurred after a random public encounter between a group of African lawyers and a group of art students from the Sandberg Institute.

    Indeed, variety is the spice of life. And at the Lloyd that variety also occurs on wallet level.

    ‘We quickly realized that money is very relative for the international- and culture- oriented traveller,’ says Oxenaar. ‘Not all talents have lots of money.’

    I nod vigorously at this very valid observation.

    ‘That’s why we offer rooms covering the full range from one to five stars,’ she adds. This refreshing non-elitist attitude–a rarity in the arts world, if I may say so, my darlings–is also seen in the arrangement of the rooms, which has one-star rooms alongside five-star ones. The hotel offices are set up as an open ‘flexispace’.

    Dancing around Architecture
    MVRDV’s involvement from early on was also a good move. The design bureau is famous for creating interesting spaces where few others could, or dared to. Take their senior citizen home Oklahoma (1997) in Amsterdam, which ingeniously provided the required number of living units on a limited ground space by cantilevering rooms off the side of building — to wacky effect. Even wackier was the way the bureau helped to put Dutch architecture back on the map at the Hanover World Expo 2000 with their Dutch Big Mac, which had various entertaining (but still functional) elements like watermills and windmills on the roof for generating electricity, a theatre on the fourth floor, an oak forest on the third floor, flowers on the second floor, and a few dunes on the first floor, along with some cafes and shops. In essence it was just a very posh Vrieshuis Amerika.

    MVRDV are so interesting that no one could possibly hold it against them that they are reputed to be Brad Pitt’s favourite architectural bureau. Like that other Dutch architecture biggie, Rem Koolhaas, they drape descriptions of their buildings in dense rhetoric. How about this gem from their state-of-the-art website, for instance? ‘A pragmatic transcription in a spatial matrix consisting of the superposition of the diagrams.’ Anyone know what that means?

    But I can accept not knowing what it means. After all, recently graduated architecture students need something to talk about while awaiting their first real-life commissions. (By the way, Brad, if you have any tips on decoding the dense poetics of MVRDV’s ‘design philosophy’, as outlined on their website, please get in touch.)

    Rhetoric aside, MVRDV are cool. You have to respect any band of merry builders who plan to construct a grassy mountain over London’s Serpentine Gallery this summer. That ‘pavilion’ might possibly even outdo the beautiful one built there last summer by Oscar Niemeyer, the great Brazilian architect and curve connoisseur. (Niemeyer claims that he picked up his own sense of organic shapes on the beaches of Rio.)

    Back to Lloyds… MVRDV took over the Lloyd’s renovation, and they began by ripping off the roof to let in some much-needed light. Then they tore a hole right down to the floor to allow more light into the building — as well as the space for the 120 rooms, which cover the full democratic spectrum of possibility. The boundary between the private and the social is generally loosely defined in all the remaining nooks and crannies of the hotel, which allows guests to use them according to their own needs at a particular time. In general the architects appear to have realised the building’s karmic desire for release, so that visitors are drawn ever upward…

    I’m starting to sound like a ‘design philosopher’ myself.   But anyway, a building that was once a claustrophobic hell-hole with a questionable history has been opened up. The non-grim elements of the original building — stained glass windows, tiled walls, exposed timbers, and raggedly pored concrete floors — have been retained. Some prison cells have been recycled for open-concept linen storage. The main idea, says Oxenaar, was to ‘use the past and make it visible and accessible for inspiration.’

    A showcase of design
    The Atelier van Lieshout — whose inspired career includes the creation of AVL-Ville, a ‘free state’ complete with shit-happy hogs and its own currency in the port of Rotterdam during 2001 — and other hotshot designers like Bureau Lakenvelder, Richard Hutten, Marcel Wanders and Hella Jongerius have taken on the hotel’s interiors. And the result is truly a party pack of rooms with plenty of examples of the functional yet witty style that has made Dutch Design so world famous within the Netherlands. During the official opening last week I enjoyed freaking out visitors by pretending to violently rip a Christoph Seyferth lamp out of the wall. It was actually attached by magnet. Teehee. That’s exactly the sort of interactive feature that I crave in my hotels.

    Curiously, the different rooms are best described through their bathrooms. Some bathrooms are shared, some fold away behind doors, some have translucent walls that act as the hotel room’s ambient light, some are merely an open shower in the middle of the hotel room, and yet others are wholly customised from polyester resin (the smell of which still hangs in the air).

    The big theory behind this hotel remains the idea that everything is for everybody. Guests will certainly love it. But will Amsterdammers? That remains to be seen. Personally, I think that Amsterdammers should hold back on the smart-ass commentaar for a while and see how things evolve. Let’s just give the folks behind Hotel Lloyd a couple of years to sort out all the unavoidable kinderziektes. After all, the Amsterdamse Bos didn’t grow in a day.

  • Amateurism, the fresh maker

    Amateurism, the fresh maker

    Professional architects, landscape architects and urban designers go ‘amateur’. Can it save our city from being scrubbed to death? Two new experts take us to the streets to look for inspirational amateurism in our own backyard.

    By Steve Korver, 06-03-2008, cover feature, Amsterdam Weekly.

    Amateurism is everywhere. Just look at last week’s headlines. The Rijksmuseum will now not open until 2013—seven years later than planned and likely 88 million euros over the currently available budget. Meanwhile, the global media continues to pump up the impending release of an anti-Muslim movie being made by a local amateur film-maker.

    AmsterdamWeekly_Issue10_6Ma

    But amateurism can also be a good thing: as inspiration for ‘professionals’ and a potential means to quirk up and give identity to urban spaces.

    Since January, the Architecture Academy on Waterlooplein has been under the spell of amateurism. This year’s artist-in-residence, Erik Kessels, creative director of the communications agency KesselsKramer, has been celebrating amateurism by organising workshops, street actions and an exhibition. There are also weekly lectures that have included the likes of Julian Germain, who has worked with Brazilian street children to create huge walls of photography, and Marti Guixe, a ‘product designer who hates objects’. This Thursday, Dori Hadar, a criminal investigator and junk collector from Washington DC, will talk about discovering the homemade 50-album oeuvre, all made of cardboard, of imaginary soul superstar Mingering Mike.

    KesselsKramer has been behind some of the quirkier ad campaigns of the last decade, such as the one that promoted Hans Brinker Budget Hotel with, ‘It Can’t Get Any Worse. But We’ll Do Our Best’. But KesselsKramer has also produced the film The Other Final that documented the match between Bhutan and Montserrat, the two lowest ranking football teams in the world, and published several books on amateur photography.

    In the introduction to the forthcoming book Amateurism due out later this month, Kessels writes: ‘In Wikipedia (one of the greatest non-professional projects ever) we see the word [amateur] has a French root, meaning “love of”. And that is the crux for me. Amateurs have a passion for what they do that is mostly unaffected by the need for recognition (financial or otherwise). It is a cliche, but the work is its own reward. Their enthusiasm results in styles and ways of seeing usually absent in the creations of their professional peers.’

    Applied amateurism
    Martijn Al, working as a professional landscape architect for CH&Partners in Den Haag while completing his Masters at the academy, reassures me that no one in his firm has ever considered approaching the building of foundations in an amateuristic way. While participating in the week-long Amateurism Workshop in January, Al’s own project had him working with Design Politie and architect Duzan Doepel to make a typographic, yet amateuristic, political intervention in the city.

    ‘Since it had to be political, I was inspired by the fact that the Netherlands is one of the countries with the least amount of private places in the world—with the most cameras and the most tapped phone calls, etcetera. I started to see the cameras everywhere: in train stations, by bank machines and on squares and streets. And I learned that there were only two rules: the recorded images could not be made public, and these cameras had to be visible. But what’s visible? People just don’t notice them. So we made a cardboard cut-out that said ‘Watch Your Step’, bought some rice at the Chinese supermarket on Nieuwmarkt and then dumped the rice into the cut-out on the street in front of the store’s camera.’ The results were an elegant way of drawing attention to the many city cameras recording our every move. (Of course, a professional activist would have just covered the lens with spray paint.) And Al was inspired: ‘Usually as architects, we are just busy with paper and plans and then the building companies do the actual work. Now we were doing something in practice.’

    But besides enriching the streetscape temporarily, can applied amateurism help in stemming the continued trend of vertrutting—frumpification—in Amsterdam? ‘This city is indeed turning more and more into an open air museum, but on the other hand, it’s the country’s calling card. So there is a positive side to it,’ says Al, who lives in Haarlem.

    ‘But you do lose a sense of identity,’ he adds, as we take a stroll along Nieuwe Herengracht between Weesperstraat and the Amstel. ‘Things are changing. Ten or fifteen years ago, the trend was that public spaces should be as empty as possible so they can be used in as many ways as possible. Now the trend is to green things up.’ Al laughs as he points out an old Oma bicycle pimped up with plastic vines and flowers. ‘And there are many different ways you can green things up!’ ‘Landscape architects have, in a way, already applied amateurism into common practice. We are not independent artists. We have to talk to the clients and the people who are going to be using these spaces. And as “amateurs”, these users are a very valuable resource. If you notice that a lot of residents already have their own tiny gardens, you can fit that into the planning.’

    And indeed, as we reach the Amstel, tiny allotments are currently being built into the sidewalks in front of the houses. As we reach the bridge, Al also points out a houseboat with a floating wild garden providing contrast to the newly laid cobblestone. It’s nice, green and chaotic, adding amateuristic life to some highly professional surroundings.

    Prinseneiland, amateur paradise?
    Lada Hrsak is a professional architect who has done everything from redesigning an Amsterdam houseboat to working on the heralded new Dutch embassy in Addis Abeba, Ethiopia. She’s also employed as a teacher of design and concepts at the academy and took part in the workshop. She was paired up with stylist Patrick Moonen to work out amateur concepts in fashion, resulting in feather boas made from Albert Heijn plastic bags and suits made from financial pages.

    ‘The workshops were a piss-take in a way,’ says Hrsak, ‘but a lot of fun. More rude and funny than cynical. And in KesselsKramer’s work you see the influence of amateurism from day one. In fact, the rest of Dutch design has this same bottom-up approach. That’s why it’s so renowned for being fresh and witty. But you still need a professional to “clean it up”.’

    Hrsak sees amateurism as a tool: ‘It’s about the commercial-free devotion to the thing you’re doing. It’s about obsessiveness—or perhaps “passion” is the better word.’

    She thinks some architectural ‘masterpieces’ have been produced through amateur efforts, such as a palace of stone built by French postman, Ferdinand Cheval (1836-1924), who spent 33 years building his ‘ideal palace’ from rocks that he collected while doing his mail route.

    We are walking around Prinseneiland. While the beautiful island has undergone a lot of new development, it still hasn’t lost its funky vibe, though the same cannot be said for large sections of the neighbouring Jordaan.

    ‘Why this area works is because of the diversity of styles,’ Hrsak says. ‘Not everything is of one grain. Of course all the houseboats help. And while there are modern buildings now here, you also have murals, the children’s farm, and this is just beautiful of course.’

    She has led me to a ground floor apartment across from cafe Blaauw Hoofd on Blokmakerstraat. The front porch has a double car seat, two birch branch lamps and the background is a large print of Hieronymus Bosch’s Garden of Early Delights. Could this garden be translated on a larger scale elsewhere?

    ‘I’ll have to get back to you on that one,’ she laughs. ‘Now the emphasis is too much on building at high speed and achieving the most square meters. It’s all about haalbaarheid [practicality]. And if you leave space for unclarity—where the users can actually fill it themselves—that makes developers nervous. The design challenge is to generate development and make buildings good enough to bear imperfections. But on a small scale, such as here, it’s still possible.’

    ‘And remember, it’s about allowing freshness. It doesn’t mean we should cover our buildings and cities with all kinds of junk.’ Too bad. There goes the idea of suggesting the immediate reopening of the Rijksmuseum as it is now, and just covering it with garden gnomes.

  • Death of a FEBO Man

    Death of a FEBO Man

    The man who made ‘pulling a diagonal’ an institution is dead. An obituary.

    By Steve Korver, 22-05-2008, Amsterdam Weekly

    Grease communion

    A visit to the FEBO can put an eerie edge on any late Friday night. Just witness the almost religious quieting of a loud, beer-fuelled crowd as they stand in line, ready to slot some change into a futuristic glowing wall and magically receive the crunchy sacrament of grease: a kroket, bamibal, nasischijf, burger or kaassouffle. As if hooked up to some Pavlovian machine, they first drool, then abandon themselves to the oily lipstick kiss that these fast foods ultimately deliver.

    Last week, it was announced that local fast food pioneer Johan de Borst, who gave us all this, died peacefully at age 88. De Borst learned his trade at a bakery on the Ferdinand Bolstraat. As a tribute, he contracted that street name to Maison Febo when, in 1941, at age 21, he opened his own business at Amstelveenseweg 274.

    AmsterdamWeekly_Issue20_22M_by_Karen_Willey

    Automation revolution

    Besides the usual baked goods, De Borst also sold his own self-made salads and deep-fried snacks. And his kroketten hit like a bomb: old photographs document 100-metre line-ups of people awaiting their fix. That sort of demand would get anyone thinking. And so, in 1960, at his own house around the corner at Karperweg 3, De Borst built a service counter at his living room window and an automatiek in the wall of his sons’ bedroom. A family business was born. In 1990, one of De Borst’s sons took over the business, and today a grandson also sits on the board.

    De Borst didn’t invent the automat, or automated food dispenser. It was developed in the US and arrived in the Netherlands in the 1920s, where it was used to circumvent a much-hated shopping-hours law that did not allow personal service after 6pm. But by the 1960s, it had essentially disappeared from the international streetscape—the technology just couldn’t go against the natural laws of coagulation—until FEBO came along with its nifty space-age design and quick rotation of the goods supplied.

    Fast fine art

    Alec Shuldiner, an American systems analyst who now lives in Amsterdam, wrote his 2001 doctoral dissertation on the history of the automatiek, using FEBO as a case study. He says that the key to FEBO’s success was that they managed to overcome the automatiek’s bad image. ‘They were seen as teenage hangouts that served the worst meats, fried in the oldest of oils,’ says Shuldiner. ‘And what FEBO did was clean up both the image and the food and turn this business model into a fine art. Actually, “fine art” is probably not the best description—but you get the idea.’

    And indeed, De Borst had a reputation as an honest perfectionist who was scrupulous about hygiene. While friendly, he was also firm and liked to be addressed with the formal u. To maintain his good name, he always made the kroketten himself. Even in old age he was often on hand in the factory to oversee the production of his snacks before they were delivered—fresh, not frozen—to a total of 58 franchises. In Amsterdam alone, there are 22 FEBOs, scattered all around town like pimples on the face of an adolescent.

    Of the 350 million kroketten and 600 million frikadellen that the Dutch eat annually, only one or two per cent are bought at the FEBO. But according to Shuldiner, they are a hugely profitable company. ‘They were in the top ten of restaurant chains of the Netherlands as of early 2000. And just compare their outlet on Leidsestraat to the McDonald’s across the street in terms of space and personnel: sales are comparable, but FEBO’s costs are only a fraction of McDonald’s.’

    Moving with the times

    While the vast majority of FEBO outlets are franchises, the family has always delivered the products in the name of quality control. The company also tries to stay with the times. Recognising the multicultural reality of Amsterdam, they took the pork out of their bamiballen, to make them Halal, and introduced spicy chicken to appeal to Surinamese customers.

    In 2007, they opened a new production centre in Amsterdam Noord; they also tested payment via mobile phone at a computer-chip-enhanced automatiek at their Leidsestraat outlet. Meanwhile, they are busy developing a low calorie ‘vitaaltjekroket and plan to open new outlets in popular Dutch tourist destinations such as Spain and Turkey—or at the very least, have a ‘mobile FEBO car’ doing a circuit of the Costas.

    A vision spreads

    These days, FEBO is more than just a purveyor of food. ‘Een kroket trekken bij de FEBO’ has entered the Dutch universal consciousness. Everyone has a FEBO story. There are endless urban legends—usually involving a student prank. It provides endless fascination for tourists. In fact, one of these tourists, David Leong, was so inspired by the FEBO concept that he opened Bamn Automat in NYC’s East Village last year.

    And if FEBO continues to move with the times, perhaps they will build ever larger walls with ever larger slots—and maybe let students rent them. And consider the biofuel possibilities: perhaps one day, the mere wringing out of a FEBO napkin will be enough fuel to get your scooter to the next bar. But all these are still dreams, to be implemented by a fast-food visionary to come.



    Illustration by Karen Willey.

  • Talking Belly to Belly with Glutton and Van Dam.

    Talking Belly to Belly with Glutton and Van Dam.


    In one corner: Johannes van Dam, Het Parool’s food critic, who puts fear into the hearts of the city’s restaurateurs—he can make them, he can break them. In the other corner: Amsterdam Weekly’s Undercover Glutton—he still gets to eat in peace. We have brought them together to discuss their mutual love—nay, uncontrollable passion—for food.  And indeed, it turned out that they have a lot in common besides diabetes. Whenever one mentioned a particular dish, the other would kindly provide a soundtrack of salivation and pleasurable gekreun—a near-constant backdrop of gesmekkle. It was really quite sweet. The interview took place in one of Van Dam’s favourite haunts, Cafe Luxembourg on Spui. When Van Dam enters, he asks: ‘So you want to talk about my food passion?’ He pats his belly: ‘Well, it’s only growing by the day.’ The Undercover Glutton pats his belly in response. A bond is born.

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    By Steve Korver, 19-04-2007, cover feature, Amsterdam Weekly.

    THE BIRTH OF PASSION

    What are your earliest food memories?

    Johannes van Dam (JvD) I had a father who was interested in food and especially the taste of things. I remember, as a child I ate tomatoes on bread and poured sugar over it [UG moans]. Then someone suggested trying salt, so I did and that was good, too. Another memory is from when I was six or seven; my mother asked me to make her some tea, and I decided to add a lot of sugar to make it real tasty even though I knew she didn’t use it. I thought she did that out of thrift or something. She spat it out, but then explained that was because she wasn’t used to it. So I began doing without sugar in my tea for two weeks, thinking I would enjoy the sugar even more afterwards. But then I spat it out as well! I learned then that taste is very much about what you’re used to.
    Undercover Glutton (UG) My memory is almost the same but I never stopped with sugar! I was born premature. I didn’t want to eat, and my father fed me sugar water. Ever since, I’ve had a passion for sweet things. My mother would make brown bread-and-butter sandwiches with tomatoes and salt and pepper, and sprinkle sugar over it. My father also had a food column back then, in South Africa, along with a few restaurants. So we were brought up with good food. I just loved to eat. I had a Russian grandmother who made the best pancakes in the world… Oh, and her fried fillets of sole!

    So both your parents were good cooks?

    UG Yes…
    JvD Not at all! My mother is still alive, and she is still not. My father tried. On weekends and holidays he’d try something fancy from a very fat cookbook, but he almost always failed. I started cooking Sunday brunch for the family when I was seven or eight. Later, I cooked for my fellow students, and I’ve never stopped. I’m quite good, but I didn’t get it from my parents.

    If you were a dish what dish would you be?

    JvD I am a dish! They tell me so. I would be me.
    UG You are what you eat after all… If I was served as a dish I would feed a lot of people. The meat would be tender and rich from all the nice things I have eaten. I think a roast…
    JvD You are a roast. You are as big as me!
    UG You know, my brother is a film caterer. He also has the passion. In his will he wants to be cremated, but his last wish is to be marinated and stuffed—the whole works. His wife freaked out. I asked him if he was serious and he said yes. Sure, you need a bit of a perverse sense of humour, but after all, eating is a communal thing. That’s what I believe anyway.
    JvD I would be a simple peasant dish, with honest ingredients. Not many of them… something with potatoes, onions and cheese.
    UG Actually, I would be a terrine.
    JvD Why’s that?
    UG Because I adore terrine. I really do. I really, really do.
    JvD I make marvellous terrine.

    Any other passions besides food and cooking?

    UG Theatre. And people. Writing. Movies. Nature. I love watching nature programmes. It’s kind of odd, but it’s as if nature provides a bounty for the table. If I’m on a train, for example, and we’re passing sheep, I’m dividing them up into different dishes. Or cows, into burgers and roasts.

    JvD Like a Dutch poet once said: I’m fine with sunsets as long as there is a good glass of jenever with it. I also love writing and I was doing that before I started to write about food. I also love comics, art, poetry and history. And I have a whole collection of books on hoaxes and conmen because it says so much about how people think.

    At what point does food stop being a passion and start becoming a liability?

    UG With diabetes. I have diabetes.
    JvD Yes, me too. There’s also cholesterol…
    UG Heart problems…
    JvD I am in and out of the hospital these days. Diabetes is something we share with most of our food-reviewing colleagues. Except for that scrawny little woman who doesn’t seem to like her food but writes about it anyway…

    What dish since childhood have you still not got tired of?

    JvD Potato puree. It should be good potatoes, well made. But, then, it’s always marvellous. In restaurants, when it says ‘served with puree’, I go: ‘Maybe I should take that’. But lots of things: kroketten of course…
    UG Bacon and eggs. Bacon, because it was against my religion. But I asked my dad who was eating some what it was like and he said ‘here’ and stuffed a mouthful in my mouth. I spent the rest of the day in the hot African sunshine, waiting to be struck by lightning and it didn’t happen. So then I had it everyday. The good, grilled bacon, crispy.
    JvD Oh, ja. That’s good.
    UG Maybe when you’re exposed to trying all these different types of food, no matter how exotic, you become jaded and want something simple.
    JvD Just like me and my puree. But for we Dutch it’s more about the uitsmijter where the meat is not fried with the egg. I have a version with pastrami, which I put on the bread and put the fried egg on top so it heats the pastrami and the fat just oozes into the bread. I can tell you it’s really marvellous. The best way you can treat both egg and pastrami.
    UG Where do you get your pastrami?
    JvD Fred de Leeuw on Utrechtsestraat. He makes it from the beautiful Wagyu, the Japanese fat cow. Well-smoked and well treated. Here, they usually inject it with salt water…
    UG I had pastrami in New York and had to bring back whole bags of the stuff. Isn’t it pickled beef, but half-timed pickled, then roasted and smoked?
    JvD Not roasted, steamed. You salt it dry with the herbs and spices. Leave it for three or four days. Then you smoke it and steam it. But here, they just inject it with fluids.
    UG Like embalming fluids…
    JvD Yes, and they use lean meat. And fat is taste and succulence. It’s a pity about that, but it’s true.
    UG I understand we also share a passion for boiled eggs with anchovies. When I read that in one of your books, the blood drained from my face. I like a freshly baked roll. Butter. A hard-boiled egg. And anchovies. To me that is LICKKKK.
    JvD Anchovies are fermented and contain a lot of natural taste enhancers. It makes you drool.
    UG Really!

    TRICKS OF THE TRADE

    How did your passion become your trade?

    JvD I was in journalism and suggested to a paper I start writing about food like Waverly Root did in the International Herald Tribune. My first book was based on the way he wrote his book Food. Only later did I start to review restaurants, since I was afraid that I’d be recognised and that it would make it impossible to write an objective report. But later I learned, if you have enough experience, it doesn’t matter. A bad cook will stay a bad cook no matter if you are there or not. Same with a bad waiter. Because you aren’t judging mistakes but the level someone is working at. And a mistake is a mistake. The level always stays the same.
    UG I just started two years ago. I wasn’t the first choice but…
    JvD They scraped the bottom of the barrel and there you were?
    UG Yes, pretty much. Well, I had been porpoising in and out of horeca for a long time. I’ve worked everywhere from a food-freezing factory to fancy digs. But I do love food. So I was given a chance and it worked out. But I’m a newcomer.

    How do you prepare before going to a restaurant you’re about to review?

    JvD The first thing I do is choose a restaurant. Usually, I take a kind of restaurant that I haven’t reviewed the week before. Not two Italians in a month, not two expensive ones in a row. If it’s a very specific cuisine—like this week, I did a Vietnamese—I just take out my Vietnamese cookbooks and keep them handy to check names and so on. But usually I don’t prepare very much. I used to use them more before, when I didn’t know everything like I do now [laughter]. And I always pack my own knife. A very sharp one. There were Americans in a restaurant I was eating at once. We were all eating steak and they asked me why I used my own knife. I told them: just look at your plates—they all had a red pond of liquid on them—and mine was completely dry. My juice was still in the meat and therefore much tastier, while they ripped the meat apart. It’s very convincing.
    UG I do what I call a flyby. I target the place. I go past and look at the menu and see if you’ve been there. I look at the numbers you gave and when you were there last.
    JvD I find it a pity that I can’t do that.

    What’s the difference in approach for you two?

    JvD I always go with an assistant who has booked the table for us. He goes in first. Once, he got seated at the worst table—against the wall and not by the river—at Excelsior. Then I showed up and they panicked and wanted to put us at another table. I said it was fine, but in the review I recommended that readers should reserve under my name or Freddy Heineken’s. A little humour is important. But these things should be mentioned. My assistant and I always order two four-course meals so I can taste them all. You need that many to be impartial and to rule out the mistakes. I once had a cake made with bad cream. It was made by an assistant who hadn’t tasted it. But I didn’t even mention it in the review because otherwise the restaurant was perfect, and mentioning it would have made the review too negative. It was just a mistake. It shouldn’t have happened. But it was not a mistake in the attitudes or the level they were cooking at.
    UG There are many gremlins in horeca to be sure… Well, I’m different. I’m totally anonymous. And to have a private life is great—you can misbehave. But one side of me would love to have people running in fear and trembling when I walk in.
    JvD [laughs] But it’s not fun. I would much prefer to be anonymous. I once even asked the make-up artist who did Van Kooten & De Bie to try to change me into someone else. But he wasn’t able to. But then there’s The New York Times’ Ruth Reichl, who wrote a book about taking on different personae to review restaurants. Anonymity is very important in New York City. There’s even prices on the heads of some reviewers—up to twenty-five thousand dollars for just a picture. But she says if she doesn’t put on a disguise the restaurateur will get his friends to sit nearby and praise the meal loudly. Well, sorry: you’re an idiot if that makes any difference to you. They can’t suddenly get a butcher with better meat. They can’t make another soup for you because there’s no time. That’s why I always take dishes that I know they had to prepare beforehand. Also dishes of different foodstuffs and techniques, so I get the full picture. Once in a two-star restaurant, I received a mixed seafood starter and there was just so much of it. So I described it in detail so they’d have to serve the same to future customers. They don’t do that kind of thing anymore. At 11 they gave me more than the table next to me. Even Paul Witteman, who is much more famous than me, got less—I joked to him that obviously he wasn’t famous enough. Then I went to the kitchen and saw that all the plates had this tiny amount. So I took a point away. They weren’t happy with that but if you give me something extra, I take something extra. I also hate it when the owner pushes his own wines, promoting his own tastes. I hate that. Rot op, I think—a gentleman’s translation of ‘fuck off’.

    How do you deal with the pressure to be ‘right’?

    JvD Ah. Well I try to be. I work very hard, so I always check everything. I do make mistakes but, now, rarely. Because I know a lot depends on it. If I write a bad review it’ll certainly hit hard, if I write a good review it’ll hit them, too. I know it’s a responsibility and I take it very seriously. I’ve been accused of being wrong a lot of times, but it’s always nonsense. It’s usually from people who don’t know anything and who are regular customers in a restaurant and don’t want to be called a moron and be told they eat shit, yet they love to eat shit and just go back for another portion of shit. I’m telling them they eat shit—and they do.
    UG I let the readers know it’s a personal observation. It’s like you learn kitchen forensics. The plate arrives in front of you. First you leave the garnishes aside (they just take up space) and look at the actual products. Where are they from? Are they from Hanos or are they from Aldi?

    Is it dangerous to get to know the culinary players in town?

    JvD I have one good friend who’s a chef, but I have never reviewed his restaurant. The rest are acquaintances. They act like friends but they aren’t real friends. Sometimes it results in a fight. Like Joop Braakhekke from Le Garage who started lying about it. Once I said: ‘This is shit.’ And he said: ‘Oh yes, it’s shit and actually we did not want to give you this dish, but you asked for it.’ Then later, he said: ‘Oh, he just came here one time and he thinks he can pass judgement.’ I had been there ten times. And he admitted it was shit and now it’s me that’s shit. Well, he’s a lying bastard—but now we’re like friends again.
    UG I’ve been asked to play him in a strange movie this year. I get to cook a human being.

    And that’s a dream of yours, isn’t it?

    UG Yes, it is.

    So what shows a restaurant’s mettle?

    JvD One thing I always take is a crème brûlée. In one way it’s a very simple dish, but it can be ruined in hundreds of ways—and usually they are ruined. It says a lot: the differences in very simple dishes like that are very obvious. I had the worst one of my life about a month ago: the cream came from a pack with clotted sugar on top, not caramelised. And people like it, apparently. But some people are lost forever [laughter]. Potato puree can also tell a lot. But it starts with the bread: if they bring hard butter you know they just don’t have any consideration for the way we consume. Sometimes it’s even worse— you can see a layer of butter and there’s another layer under it. You can do archaeology, and see they top up the butter every time and the bottom layer is very far gone [laughter]. Once I discovered that in a very expensive restaurant which was owned by one of the big criminals connected to the one who’s now on trial. But I had to state it in the review.

    Which place was this?

    JvD You know I’m not one to tell. But he’s in jail now—and the cook definitely should be! There should always be a balance— between sweetness and acidity. That’s very important. I wrote about The Dylan last week. It’s one of the most expensive places, and the cook did not know anything about the necessity of adding acidity to, for instance, fish. If you don’t, it’s flat. Just a splash of lemon juice, wine or vinegar adds tremendously to a fish dish. And then you pay seventy euros for a four-course meal and it was rubbish. It was just so sleep provoking. He also deconstructed some dishes as well—took them apart but then didn’t put them back together again. Like a timepiece, it was all the separate elements, but it didn’t work. It happens all the time. They want to be fancy and modern. They take things from better chefs who have invested, like Ferran Adria  in Spain. He deconstructs. He invented that whole thing, and they try to imitate him and they just cannot do it. One chef took things from Adria, changed them, and from a very clever idea made complete rubbish. And he had three stars! It’s because Michelin keeps on advocating things like that—it sells tyres I guess. But I’m getting tired of it.
    UG This gentleman is a gourmet. I’m a pig. A gourmand, because I like to eat. And sometimes I eat pure rubbish. But I like chocolate mousse. If there’s chocolate mousse on the menu, I will order it.
    JvD It’s like my creme brulee. There are about four or five ways of doing it right and hundreds of doing it wrong.

    What’s the biggest faux pas a restaurant can make?

    JvD I once had spoilt liver. Liver that was so far gone that it seeped through the fork.
    UG RRRGGGHHHHH!!!!
    JvD Can you imagine that? It was green. Awful. I must say the cook was fired on the day my article came out. Later, everyone thought: ‘Van Dam has such power!’ But later, I heard that the managers from the company—Krasnopolsky, a quite large company—had wanted to get rid of the cook for a year but couldn’t get permission. So they were, in fact, grateful…
    UG My bane is getting served vegetables from the day before. And they bullshit me that it’s fresh.
    JvD Happens all the time.
    UG And second-time hashed-up potatoes—and the idea of having to pay for it! It’s just an attitude. A lackadaisical attitude. Amsterdam restaurants need to get over that.
    JvD The problem is that most Dutch accept this shit. As long as there is a ribbon around it, they’ll eat shit. I have a beautiful drawing by Yrrah, the cartoonist, where, in the background there are four or five ladies eating cakes and in the foreground, there’s the cook in the kitchen and he’s decorating the cakes by squeezing a dachshund. Terrible! That’s why a lot of restaurants can go on doing that. We have a task to prevent these kinds of…
    UG Outrages!
    JvD Then there’s fried potato. What they do is put a little paprika powder in the pan and a bit of fat and just mix it up with some boiled potatoes and heat it a bit, so it looks like it’s fried but it’s not all.
    UG And crust is very important!
    JvD There is a lot of cheating in the kitchen. There are even books that tell how you how do it. I’ll fight that to the death.
    UG To the revolution!

    Power—how much do you actually have? How do you deal with it?

    JvD Well, it’s not my idea, but some of my colleagues—and politicians—tell me that I’m the only journalist with any real power. I can make a restaurant close or stay open. There was an Indonesian restaurant with only two or three tables… I wrote about it and then it was sold out every night. The owners had put all their money into it, and thanked me for giving them a chance at a pension. But I take it very seriously. I’ve never cheated. Never been bought.
    UG Well, I’m definitely smaller-scale. Sometimes I do come by a place and think they need a boost and then I’ll write it—and if there’s a positive reaction, great. I found a great Turkish place, Temiz Slagerij, with grilled chicken. Their rotisserie attracted me as if it was that grand wonder-like monolith from 2001: A Space Odyssey. I wanted to do a dance around it and let everyone know.

    Ever felt the urge to start a restaurant and let others make a judgement?

    UG Absolutely not.
    JvD No. I’ve been offered and thought about it, but no. Also, now there are restaurants that weren’t there ten years ago that are almost the way I’d like them, so there’s less of a need. Anyway, I’m a bad employer and I’m not really an obedient person. I can’t stand people who think they are much better than I am. If I had to serve them I’d send them away crying into the street. I can’t do it. But I do give advice to restaurants. Freely. But that’s it.
    UG Once there was a stage when I thought I’d love something by a beach with a patio, a barbecue pit and contact with the fishermen, and a tomato patch with a few herbs growing. You’d be able to get lovely grilled fish, a delicious salad and a cup of nice wine—nothing fancy, but drinkable. With live music and dancing after dinner. Really simple. But again: no.
    JvD I just reviewed a little place, Gartine on Taksteeg. They are open for breakfast, lunch, high tea, but no dinner—they close at six. They have a big garden and a greenhouse in Almere Haven where they grow all their vegetables and fruits and herbs. Everything organic. Darling couple. Simple place. I imagine it was their dream—like I had, like you had. Marvellous.

    THE AMSTERDAM SCENE

    So what does Amsterdam have going for it?

    JvD Variety and quality. Also cuisine. Good dishes. You can get shit, of course, but it’s our task to tell people where they should go and where not to go. That’s why I detest all those newspapers and magazines that only review the good ones. So you don’t know which ones to avoid. I always give tips on how the cooks can improve. I never only say: ‘This is niet lekker.’ I always say why.
    UG I agree about variety. I was brought up in Africa with a limited amount of exposure to cuisine. And Amsterdam is a nexus point. You got your variety, quality but also your lousiness in a small village.
    JvD ‘A cosmopolitan village,’ is what I always say.

    What about cheap variety? You’ve got Chin-Indo-Suri but that’s it. Where’s the cheap Vietnamese?

    JvD Well, that Vietnamese I just reviewed is cheap. The small pho is eight euros fifty and is enough for a meal. You can get four steamed spring rolls with shrimp for four euros. And they’re perfect.

    What’s missing in Amsteram?

    JvD It’s changed somewhat but I the French- and Belgian-style brasseries where you could get a good meal cuisine bourgeois. Here it’s shit or fancy—which can still be shit.

    How about Flo?

    JvD It’s quite posh. But it comes close. I’m very happy it’s there because it sets a standard. There’s also Cote Ouest and the French Cafe. It’s getting better.

    How about places like Harkema and Dauphine?

    JvD That’s too fancy. Just like Cafe Amsterdam. It’s too Dutch, which means they are skimping on everything. It looks like a French menu but it’s actually managerial. It’s not the cook but the manager who decides.
    UG It’s a cost-effective menu.
    JvD Very cost-effective. Well, all menus should be cost-effective, but the priority is that there’s enough and it’s very tasty. But these places are just fancy. The names are fancy, the dishes, the surroundings are fancy—or modern, or whatever they are. The food remains mediocre at best.
    UG I miss food courts like they have in Paris or Berlin, with a variety of meat you can buy it by the ounce. Quality stuff from all over Europe.
    JvD We used to have that at De Bijenkorf, but they thought it was too expensive. The manager who did the cheeses went to Albert Heijn. We do have little shops and markets, but no food halls. That would be a good thing. Or a market like in…
    UG London…
    JvD Or Barcelona. Or better supermarkets. In Belgium, the supermarkets are much better quality. But here, no.

    What kind of local places do you return to time after time?

    JvD You want our secret addresses? Le Petit Latin. It has a French cook preparing Provençal food. It’s really quite simple, in a cellar just around the corner. Also Bordewijk. And a few Indonesians. But usually, I cook myself.
    UG One of my favourites is New King.
    JvD Also one of mine—simple and always good. There’s a review of mine hanging on the wall.
    UG Me too! I also love Tasca de Lisboa. That does Portuguese chicken piri piri. I love to eat with my fingers, to pick up a whole grilled chicken and…
    JvD Ja!
    UG And of course TjingTjing, but I’m biased because it’s a friend. But I think he’s good because I see what he does and he’s finicky. Everything has to be cooked to the moment.
    JvD I love that. I love cooks who are finicky.
    UG The vegetables begin raw and need to be cooked then, at the moment. Also potatoes—I’ve helped out grating rosti till my fingers bleed.

    Most memorable Amsterfood moment?

    JvD Well, the liver was very memorable. But you want something positive don’t you? Hmm, that’s very hard. It’s like asking a parent which one of their children they prefer…
    UG I’d have to choose a bit from every special place to make a composite. It’s like who’s your best friend. Your best friend is a group—a composite of all the people you love.

  • The Road to Gagarin

    The Road to Gagarin

    Here is a digital version of an exhibition photographer Rene Nuijens and I made for the European Space Agency, which then went on to be exhibited in Yuri’s hometown of  Gagarin, Russia, and have a version of it published in McSweeney’s Quarterly, Volume 12.

    We first came to wintry Moscow in 2001 to put our Western fingers on the pulse of Russian Cosmonautics. Within two weeks the Mir Space Station, the last vestige of a purely Soviet/Russian manned space program, would plummet back to Earth after fifteen years of service. But shortly after this end there was another date that would represent the giddy beginning: April 12th would be the 40th anniversary of the historic 108-minute orbit of the Earth that made Yuri Gagarin (1934-1968) the first man in space.

    With more than enough space historians busying themselves with purely technical and political matters, we felt comfortable in focusing in more on the mythic aspects of Cosmonautics. This meant that we could indulge our fascination for such things as stuffed astro-dogs, space shuttles re-invented as fairground rides, and massive swoops of titanium depicting Flash Gordon types. Naturally we were also attracted to uncovering reflections of such now universal tales that depicted the Mir as a long-doomed space station held together by sheer will and duct-tape alone, and Yuri Gagarin as the most immortal of Soviet icons…

    And indeed, it was the story of Yuri that struck us the deepest. No one can deny the sheer guts of someone who cheerfully had himself strapped into some tin can to be blasted off towards the centre of the universe and in the process achieving something that only a few dogs, that mostly died, tried. And in our small and modest way, we also paid our respect: by returning to Russia again and again – weakly armed with only two words of the local lingo (“Yuri” and “Gagarin”) – so we could be strapped into some tin can of an airplane or car towards yet another Great Unknown that had played a major role in Yuri’s dramatic and often surreal life. In the process, we hoped to capture (in our small and modest way) the essence of both the man who is dead and his myth that is very much alive.

    Certainly few can compete with Yuri. He is a hero of the classical mould whose life story eerily resembles the universally familiar path followed by everyone from Ulysses to Luke Skywalker. Of course, Soviet propaganda did much to inflate this perception, but this alone does not explain Yuri’s enduring stature. While his tragically premature death also aided the myth-building process, Russians often like to point out that Yuri’s continued resonance is more about him having been a “really nice guy”. But he was also the very cute embodiment of the ancient Russian dream of conquering outer space that inspired a school of philosophy and science, Cosmism, a full century before Khrushchev started scaring the West with visions of Soviets pumping out “rockets like sausages”.

    The story of Yuri, while it should never be told completely outside its totalitarian context, still tells a heartening tale of the power of positive dreaming. And we ourselves certainly learned a lot from a people – overly represented in the media with images of gulags and gangsters – whose language has no word for “corny”. In short, we are inspired to export the idea of Yuri as a worthy hero beyond the borders of the former Soviet Union, and to present a certain Russian idealism that both preceded and outlasted the Communist Era. Stay tuned for the coffee table book…

    Steve Korver (text)
    Rene Nuijens (photography)

    COSMONAUT  #1

    Nuijens_Saratov_HallYuriSchool_

    Once upon a time long before Cold War competition, the Russians dreamed of space being a place that not only stretched horizontally from St. Petersburg to Vladivostok, but also vertically from “Moscow to the Moon, Kaluga to Mars”. Spurred by the vision that “Earth is the cradle of humanity, but one cannot live in a cradle forever”, a deaf and largely self-taught small town school teacher Konstatin Tsiolkovsky (1857-1937) used his spare time to come up with the formula that made rocket flight possible and eventually had it published in 1903, the same year as the Wright brothers flight. While living in a rustic log cabin, this son of a Polish lumberjack also managed to meditate intelligently on multi-stage rockets, orbital space stations, weightlessness, solar energy and the design considerations for space suits and gravity-free showers. However many years would pass before Yuri Gagarin would put a face to all this pragmatic dreaming by becoming our planet’s first cosmic emissary…

    DOWNTOWN GAGARIN TOWN

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    Cosmonaut #1 was also a dreamer. He had dreamed since boyhood of strapping on some rocket-powered gossamer wings and flying towards the moon. But he was also a regular guy – albeit one with a monumental smile – who was born in 1934 in the backwoods of the Smolensk region near the town of Gzhatsk. While most Russian towns named after Soviet figureheads have long reverted to their pre-Revolution names, Gagarin Town will never become Gzhatsk again. Certainly, if Yuri’s many descendents who still live there have their way. Already there are seven different museums dedicated to this town’s favourite son. It is hoped that an improved infrastructure will bring more pilgrims than just buses of school children making the 180 km ride from Moscow. It’s a sad metaphor for the current state of Cosmonautics that the town’s one hotel – named Vostok after the technological wonder that blasted Yuri towards the stars – is in dire need of new plumbing. But the spirit is there…

    AT HOME WITH MOTHER  

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    Gagarin Town is already a Graceland for all the Russian cosmonauts who followed Yuri. They came to pay respects to Yuri’s mother, herself an icon of Soviet Motherhood, until her death in 1984. And they still come to drink the cold fresh water from the Gagarin family well beside the recreated log cabin where Yuri was born in the nearby village of Klushino. Downing a refreshing glass of this well water is said to ensure one’s safe return from the Cosmos. Many American astronauts, betraying a balanced view of Space History, have also visited. No one less than Neil Armstrong, the first man on the moon, was once on hand to place a gold coin in the foundation of the largest museum dedicated to Yuri and declare: “Gagarin called us all to the Cosmos”.

    SARATOV INDUSTRIAL-PEDAGOGICAL COLLEGE

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    Yuri was called to take the trajectory of any bright-eyed child of promise in the USSR. He went off to learn how to become a working class hero. But characteristically, he went further than most: 800 km south of Moscow down the Volga river to Saratov where he would learn steelwork at the city’s industrial training college. He would also learn how to fly at the local flight club. Whenever he would write home to tell his parents how he was excelling at both, his mother would always reply: “We are proud of you, my son… but don’t you get a swelled head”. Meanwhile, the Ukrainian-born Tsiolkovsky disciple Sergei Korolov (1906-66) had long returned from his Siberian imprisonment as a victim of Stalinist purges to invent the intercontinental ballistic and take charge of Soviet Space Program. As “Chief Designer” (his true name would remain a state secret until his death), he would oversee the launching of both Sputnik and his chosen cosmic ambassador, Yuri.

    YURI MARCHING TALL ALONG THE VOLGA

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    “For a space flight they looked for ardent spirits, a quick brain, strong nerves, inflexible will power, stability, vivacity and cheerfulness.” – Road to the Stars, Yuri Gagarin

    Due to the cramped nature of the space capsule, Korolov was also looking for a short person to make that first big step into the Cosmos. As a 1.54 metre tall man who needed a pillow to properly see out from a plane’s cockpit, Yuri certainly fit the profile. And as captain of his basketball team, it was also obvious that Yuri was a very special kind of short person. But it is said that it was only after Yuri respectfully took off his shoes before entering the training capsule for the first time that Korolov made his decision and told Yuri “for you the stratosphere is not the limit”. Yuri regarded this as “the pleasantest words I had ever heard.”

    LET’S GO!

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    On the 12th of April 1961, Yuri shouted with an unbridled enthusiasm “Let’s Go!” (Poyekhali!) as he was launched from the dusty steppes of Kazakhstan’s Baikonur Cosmodrome to become the first human to see with their own eyes that the Earth was indeed round. In many ways these words defined the man: simple, direct and to the point. He was also unnaturally relaxed: sleeping soundly the night before, softly whistling a tune to his motherland while awaiting countdown, and keeping his heartbeat steady during blast-off. While careening around the planet at a speed of 28 000 km/h, he also reported back: “I am Eagle!” “I can see the clouds! I can see everything! It’s beautiful!” and “I am feeling great! Very great! Very great! Very great!” Meanwhile, Radio Moscow interrupted normal broadcasting to play the song “How Spacious is My Country”.

    108-MINUTES LATER

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    After one 108-minute circuit of the Earth, Yuri landed a short distance from where he first learned to fly in Saratov. It was said he was in the capsule when it landed (but in fact he had bailed by parachute). It was said he landed in a freshly ploughed field (but in fact he had landed too close to a secret missile division so the capsule was moved to a suitably ploughed field). It was said an old woman, a little girl and a cow were the first to greet him (but in fact he had to do some fast-talking in order to convince pitchfork-armed farmers that he was not a spy). But regardless, it remained an unparalleled moment in human history. While Yuri claimed that he saw no God during his flight through the Cosmos, two days later when Red Square filled beyond capacity to greet him, he himself would become One – One who worried about tripping over his untied shoelace as he made the long red-carpet walk towards the Soviet star-studded podium. The cult of the cosmonaut was born and “every boy wanted to be a cosmonaut and every girl his wife”.

    THE FIRSTS THAT FOLLOWED

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    Yuri was on hand to lend guidance to Gherman Titov, the second man in space (and whose 24-hour flight made him the first man in space to sleep, eat, etc…); Valentina Tereshkova, the first woman in space; Alexey Leonov, the first man to walk in space; and Vladimir Komarov, the first man to die in space. They and every other cosmonaut that followed him took Yuri’s national respect to truly obsessive lengths. To this day before any launch, a cosmonaut will  visit his recreated office at Star City’s cosmonaut training centre to ‘meditate’ and sign a log, pay their respects at Red Square by laying a wreath under his resting place in the Kremlin Wall, and then finally urinate – just like Yuri did – on the back tire of the bus that had brought them to the launch pad. Though it is likely that Ms. Tereshkova came up with alternative ritual to this last on.

     

    STAR CITY MUSEUM

    Nuijens_StarCity_GagarinMuseum_Overview

    Yuri adapted remarkably well in his new role as the most pleasant of peasant icons. He charmed both the masses and the elite with the easy manner he exhibited during endless world tours. But it was not easy. Being the first man in space seemed to attract many female admirers that led to stress on his marriage. There were also many male admirers who wanted to be his friend. And hence, his face soon began showing the fattening effects of that certain brand of Slavic hospitality that required the regular communal downing of vodka shots. It almost seemed as if an Elvis-like fate was awaiting him. But he rose above and accepted the fact that he was now too valuable as a symbol to ever see Space again. He returned to school to study engineering, reaffirmed his family commitments, and took the job as the deputy head of the cosmonaut training facility at Star City that would soon bear his name. But he still felt the strain: “I still can’t understand who I am: ‘the first man’ or the ‘last dog’.”

    A TRIBUTE TO HEROES

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    But he needed to fly… So he returned to his first love of flying jets. At 10.41am on the 27nd of March 1968 during a training flight with another Hero of the Soviet Union, the flying ace Vladimir Serugin, Yuri crashed in a quiet forest known only to bears and mushroom hunters near the town of Novoselovo, 100 km from Moscow. His life was over and now myth – as true as it often was – would completely take over. The cause of the crash was ruled accidental but since it occurred at a time when everything was hushed up, it was only natural that whole other schools of speculation arose: that in fact Yuri was abducted by aliens, or that Brezchnev driven by a jealousy of Yuri’s close relationship with Khrushchev had him killed, or that Yuri had finally gone mad from something he had seen in outer space. The most ridiculous scenario had Yuri drunk, flying low, and trying to shoot a moose with a rifle. Of course, the most likely story is that Yuri was indeed pulverised when the jet flew out of control after hitting a weather balloon. His best friend, the space walker Leonov, identified the remains by recognising a mole on a piece of neck that was familiar to him from the many times they had gotten haircuts together. But an air of mystery remains…

    GAGARIN, THE PROPAGANDA ICON

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    A nation mourned and the myth grew. Few people have been honoured with 40-meter swoops of titanium casting them as a Flash Gordonov of sorts. Fewer still have their names still gracing streets, schools, towns, cocktails, fashion labels and casinos, or have their faces – echoing the gilded icons of the Russian Orthodox Church – plastered on candy cases, lamps, bronzes, glass, porcelain, cookie tins, cigarette cases, buttons, clocks, books, pen sets, Christmas ornaments, vodka flasks, toys, cards, postcards and matchbox sets. Certainly none but one is regularly referred to as the “Russian Elvis” or the “Soviet JFK”. But it’s the personal stories of Yuri’s generosity, humour and warmth that still seem to circulate the most. Korolov said, “Yuri personified the eternal youth of our people. He combined within himself in a most happy blend the attributes of courage, and analytical mind and exceptional industry”.

    YURI, THE PEOPLE’S ICON

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    Today, Yuri is the only figure from Soviet times still regarded by Russians with absolute awe and respect. But slowly the passage of time is taking its toll: a niece of Yuri noted that now even the youngest generation of Gagarins are betraying a preference for “Coca Cola over the Cosmos”. But Yuri and the dream that he came to represent will never completely fade away. In 1991, when the ultimately Western phenomena of house parties arrived in Moscow, the first post-Soviet generation chose to call them not raves but ‘Gagarins’. In similar tribute, the many rusting monuments to Cosmonauts found throughout the former Soviet Union are still often brightened with fresh and youthful graffiti expressing such lofty sentiments as “Yuri, we are with you”…

    Why? Because space is the place… because Yuri was like the bungee jumper before the invention of the bungee… because Yuri was a really nice guy who became the people’s icon of a really nice guy… because Yuri’s name will be associated with the highest aspirations of our species for millennia to come… because Yuri represented what it is like – as he described it – to live life “as one big moment”. But mostly because nations need their heroes.  Just like  people…  

     
    Thanks to Troy Selvaratnum, Piet Smolders and Lava Design.

  • Dré Is Dead

    Dré Is Dead

    Volkszanger André Hazes died last week, aged only 53.

    By Steve Korver, 29-09-2004, Amsterdam Weekly

    When the news came through last week that people’s singer André Hazes had died, it pushed the Shakespearean drama then unfolding around the Hells Angels right off the front pages. Dré is dead.

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    Every bar in town began playing his songs. Text messaging traffic doubled for the first hours as the news spread, according to KPN. Signings of the condolence register on his website at a rate of more than a dozen a minute. His memorial, this past Monday — his body lying in state at the centre line — packed the ArenA stadium with over 50,000 people as the likes of Blof, René Froger, Guus Meeuwis and Xander de Buisonjé paid tribute. Time stopped the following day at five minutes before noon when he was cremated. Many Amsterdammers opened their windows to let ‘Zij gelooft in mij’ ring out into the street. It was a simultaneous demonstration of sympathy that may have helped to make the single, his signature song, the number one hit he always craved for in his lifetime.

    Some outsiders to the Hazes phenomenon might lump him with the sentimental singing superstars of other countries — France’s Johnny Halliday, Canada’s Celine Dion, Germany’s Udo Jurgens, England’s Robbie Williams… But André was different. He was a 130-kilo blob of heart-on-your-sleeveness, a sweaty and unlikely icon who sang straight from the heart while dripping (literally) with the residue of tragedies and marital breakdowns which were first lived, then obsessively covered by the nation’s tabloids, and then written up into song format with the aid of a rhyming dictionary.

    Hazes had a hardcore honesty that was capable of winning over even the most jaded or irony-crippled soul (yours truly, for instance). Those who had their doubts were put in their place by John Appel’s 1999 documentary, André Hazes: zij gelooft in mij, which depicted an open wound of a man in midst of another marriage crisis who obviously did not have a bone of pretension in him. My bet is that no serious Amsterdammer would be willing to dis him.

    In many ways, Hazes came to represent the inferiority complex that dwells within us all — that gibbering social incompetent who finally gets a break when we toss back a few drinks. He spun tales of broken hearts and spilt beers that were obviously true; he had obviously drunk to the bottom of both. The Inuit are said to have many words for snow; in Hazes’ repertoire, similarly, there are a near-infinite number of modes of drunkenness. André was a giant whose life is a heart-warming tale about transcending limitations. He even transcended his obvious weight problem and — let’s face it — hoggish features by using both to full humorous advantage in a series of canned wiener commercials that resulted in an immediate 35% sales — in the wieners.

    Often described as the ‘Netherlands’ only true soul singer’ or ‘a Dutch fado singer’, André considered himself a bluesman like his first hero Muddy Waters. But in fact, he was always more of a levenslied boy. The levenslied is a Jordaan-born genre that mixes sing-a-long drinking melodies with lyrics that glorify poverty, neighbourhood bonds and the simple pleasures of issuing curses, making babies, drinking coffee, and passing comment on passers-by — and which sometimes dwelt suspiciously long on the ‘long stiff tower’ of Westerkerk. Besides a greater degree of honesty than usual in the genre, Hazes’ contribution to the levenslied was to dump the accordion and replace it with guitar, which he liked because of — as he put it — its ‘Kedang!’ sound. He turned the levenslied into levenspop.

    Hazes was in fact born in the Pijp, a ’hood with equally solid working-class roots, where he began his career at the age of eight, singing on the pool-tables around the Albert Cuypmarkt. He broke through in 1977 with the single ‘Eenzame kerst’, which he had written for Willy Alberti. However Alberti wisely advised him to release it himself. André quickly swelled both literally and figuratively to become the fat superstar who could fill stadiums for week-long stretches. He recorded countless gold records (‘De vlieger’ and ‘De nacht’ were just a couple) and his album, Gewoon André achieved 5-times platinum status. Yep, his was a good ol’ tale of rags to riches… But while all this was going on, he also managed to be a bartender, a ‘singing bartender’, a builder, a butcher and a market seller. He liked to keep it real.

    When the Gemeentelijke Vervoerbedrijf was asked if they would continue their transport strike on the night of his ArenA memorial concert last Monday, a spokesman answered: ‘Of course we are… André was a man of the people, he’d understand.’

    Although his wide vibrato was certainly expressive, Hazes wasn’t a ‘great’ singer. But he was certainly a ‘big’ singer. And you couldn’t help but like a guy who was willing to cry in the name of communication. Like no other, he deserves his stature as a true people’s singer. He also deserves a statue — whether decked out like a Blues Brother or more relaxed in his tracksuit — alongside those of Tante Leni, Johnny Meier and Johnny Jordaan on the Elandsgracht.

    His death at the relatively young age of 53 is very sad. Hazes had long been a walking warning against the dangers of caloric excess. He lived his life as he sang his songs: as if each moment would be his last. While that last sentence might sound like a cliché, there are times in life when only a cliché will do. Andre knew this better than most. And bless him for it.